DIY: Toilet Replacement

05/06/2017

They say that it is one of the eas­i­est DIY projects you can do. Even know­ing the rel­a­tive­ly sim­ple anato­my of the toi­let and the whole process, I was still daunted…mostly by the unknowns. Turns out, they’re right. For the most part. So here, I’m going to detail the process I went through.

The Prob­lem: A leak. Not from the easy to repair places either. It was from between the bowl and the tank some­where and had been like that for months. No amount of patch­ing could do any­thing to it. Try­ing to ignore the prob­lem, I’d left a con­tain­er to catch the water and until this past week the drip­ping had been once every hour or so. Going from that to a full con­tain­er in 10 hours meant…OH YEAH…time to do some­thing about it. Not to men­tion, the water bill had cer­tain­ly been tak­ing a hit, and on top of it all the smell!!

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You can see here my prob­lem

The Research:YouTube would of course be the first  place for most peo­ple to turn to, but hav­ing been a sub­scriber to Fam­i­ly Handy­man mag­a­zine, I turned there first and lo and behold they have sev­er­al guides! And not just a guide either, but guides in case some­thing goes wrong. I rec­om­mend check­ing out the arti­cles here.

The Mate­ri­als: Read the arti­cles found above. The most impor­tant part before search­ing for a new toi­let is mea­sur­ing the area and the rough-in (dis­tance from the wall to the pipe which is about the bolt). I made the mis­take of mea­sur­ing every­thing except the rough-in. Thank­ful­ly mine was the stan­dard 12in, and not the hard to find 10 or 14 inch ones. Most of the tools nec­es­sary you’ll prob­a­bly already have around the house.

The Pro­cure­ment: As a dum­my who did­n’t mea­sure the right mea­sure­ment, we went to look, and it was all for the bet­ter any­ways because for some rea­son every­one want­ed to replace their toi­lets at the same time. There were no toi­lets left, real­ly. So instead, I gath­ered the minor mate­ri­als I need­ed, includ­ing a no-wax ring. Even­tu­al­ly went and got my toi­let with the help of my broth­er because darn it all those things are heavy.

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The Process: I love demo. That has got to be my favorite part of doing any project like this. The instant I went to remove the tank from the bowl, the bolts con­nect­ing the two fell before I could do any­thing. Hmm. I think I found what the prob­lem was.

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Before
Undo­ing the floor bolts
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The old tank innards. My attempt at patch­work which was cov­er­ing the pre­vi­ous own­er’s patch­work attempts.
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Shift­ed the tank just a lit­tle and *bang* one of the tank bolts just fell off on its own.
The right tank bolt fell on its own and the left one was still stuck in there despite the tank hav­ing been removed already.
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Com­plete­ly cor­rod­ed. No won­der. Means it has been leak­ing for a very long time.
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After much effort. This and the plac­ing of the toi­let were the hard­est parts.

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Plac­ing shims. See the plas­tic bits on the floor there.
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New tank!
No-wax ring
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New water sup­ply line

As usu­al I always get hang-ups when doing a DIY project because it’s nev­er exact­ly like they tell you on the guides. Instead of it being caulked to the floor, it was grout­ed and the peo­ple before us (this is how I know this has been a prob­lem) put caulk on top of THAT. Well. Grout isn’t
the eas­i­est thing to get rid of. Thank­ful­ly I have POWER TOOLS.

The wax ring was most­ly intact, and it lit­er­al­ly was just a ring of wax. I had to scrape it off with a put­ty knife and then tried to wipe the flange as well as I could. Which brings me to my next sur­prise which is that the flange was­n’t like in the guides along with the fact that the hole was not that pret­ty. Oh well. It worked fine.

The next part made me real­ly glad I was­n’t doing this on my own (I was all up until that point). Those parts are real­ly heavy and even more heavy put togeth­er. The shims were real­ly a very inte­gral part of this, and you should fol­low the instruc­tions when it says to shim the toi­let before you put the wax/no wax ring on. And by that, I mean, shim it, lev­el it, and then cut the shims before. Oh, and using the shims prop­er­ly would help too.

Then Boom. VOILA. It is DONE.

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I must say that the chair height is very nice. The elon­gat­ed por­tion I did­n’t need as much, but it’s nice too. Took the oppor­tu­ni­ty to paint the wall behind the toi­let and fin­ished up my paint too. I had bought a ton of extra sup­plies just in case (I always seem to make mul­ti­ple store trips and did­n’t want to do that this time) so now after it all (and so far, so good…) I need to go return every­thing.

Tak­ing out the old tank. Lots of cor­ro­sion.
Ewies.

The best part about all of this? I used a gift card I’ve been sav­ing since Christ­mas because I knew it’d have to be replaced and to my sur­prise, I did­n’t need to spend any more than that!!

Here’s a side-by-side com­par­i­son.

The Ver­dict: Over­all it was­n’t bad. I did­n’t run into sig­nif­i­cant issues, just some minor unex­pect­ed ones…nothing pow­er tools can’t fix. The guy said that if you’re lucky it would take an hour start to fin­ish, but of course it took me much longer. I went shop­ping around 10am and final­ly was done clean­ing up around 3pm. I would say that it is one of the eas­i­er projects I’ve tack­led. Hav­ing the right and qual­i­ty tools always makes every­thing eas­i­er.

Kenwood DDX593 Install 2012 Subaru Outback

Here it is! In this entry I will cov­er my expe­ri­ence installing this Ken­wood DDX593 head unit into my car, a 2012 Sub­aru Out­back. The rea­son­ing is that nowhere could I find a step-by-step set of instal­la­tion instruc­tions, and it was me sift­ing through tons of videos on YouTube and try­ing to find any­thing to help me out here. Maybe it will help some­one. Obvi­ous­ly, I am an ama­teur and have no expe­ri­ence at all doing this. Heck, I have nev­er even stripped wires before. The strip/crimp tool was com­plete­ly new to me. This is not a How-To arti­cle and in no way is it intend­ed to replace offi­cial instruc­tion man­u­als. Just some infor­ma­tion if you need it and hap­pen to have the same car I do and the same head unit. You know, just in case you find this blog entry some­how.

Items need­ed: Screw­driv­er (small and long han­dled), crimp/stripper tool, head unit and adapter + trim kits, zip ties, elec­tri­cal tape (opt), mag­net, pli­ers, crimp caps/caps, posi-tap­s/­sol­der­ing items, pry tools, small ring ter­mi­nal (if you wish to bypass the brake), patience.

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I spent the days before install days look­ing into every­thing, try­ing to make men­tal maps, gath­er­ing nec­es­sary mate­ri­als (caps, ring ter­mi­nal, posi-taps, elec­tri­cal tape), and hook­ing up the  wires before­hand.

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I referred to all the man­u­als, watched videos, and tried to fig­ure every­thing out before I’d start the install. Videos I’d rec­om­mend and referred to. Pac-Audio, Park­ing Bypass, Con­nect­ing Wires, and more wires.

I’m going to say right now and here, though, that I would not rec­om­mend the Pac-Audio adapter as between me and my broth­er we could not get it to work. Not sure what I did wrong, but the instruc­tions were dif­fi­cult to under­stand despite the video and Pac-Audio instruc­tions and by the time we were hooked up and test­ing it all out I said “screw it” and I’ll just make do with­out the con­trols for the time being. …I do miss my steer­ing wheel vol­ume con­trols, though. If I were to make a guess I’d say it was a wiring thing, because there was one instruc­tion about hook­ing the white/orange to the chas­sis ground which I don’t under­stand.

OK. So. Series of pic­tures from here on out.

Pry­ing: Despite sev­er­al dif­fer­ent instruc­tions, I found that start­ing from the upper right area to be the most use­ful. Boy, those things are on there!!! Man­aged to scrape up the dark plas­tic a lit­tle, but not too badly…took me a good 15 min­utes to do this part. Saw a video where the guy put it inside the vent and after the fact, that was prob­a­bly a good idea. I tried to get good images of the clasps here. My poor fin­gers, lol.

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Unscrew­ing and unhook­ing: 4 screws hold the orig­i­nal unit in place. This is where the long han­dled screw­driv­er and a mag­net to catch the screws is use­ful because as I was told repeat­ed­ly via videos, “if you drop them it will be lit­er­al­ly Hell to retrieve.” Tak­ing no chances here. Had a lit­tle bit of trou­ble with the upper left screw one, because the steer­ing wheel was in the way, but two it was ON THERE. Need­ed some seri­ous oomph and I am so glad I have nice tools so noth­ing stripped.

As you look at the pic­tures, you’ll see that the space to reach behind and unhook the wires is…very small. Thank­ful­ly being a female, I have small hands and was able to smoosh my hand into the air vent hole to help. Look­ing back, remov­ing the screws and pan­el for the air con­trols would have been much more use­ful if you have big hands. Might need some help hold­ing the unit, though.

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^ Here I was try­ing to show you the small view I had of the cords behind the unit. You can see the 2 har­ness con­nect­ed to the unit there.

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^Smoosh­ing my hand into the air vent. Ouch.

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AAAAAAAND this is where I got my first major hang up. That lit­tle gray doohick­ey is the anten­na. Giv­en the space lim­i­ta­tions and the lack of lever­age it was near­ly impos­si­ble to unhook this suck­er. This was when I need­ed broth­er-back­up. So as I rec­om­mend­ed above he unscrewed and removed the  air unit con­trols (don’t try to remove the side pan­el­ing near your leg because those are held on my screws. We tried. Pret­ty hard. Thank­ful­ly noth­ing was broken…thank you Sub­aru plas­tic for not being super cheap) so that we had bet­ter lever­age. Even then he had to use pli­ers to remove the anten­na from the har­ness after unhook­ing it from the side of the pan­el­ing where it was hooked into.

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20170121_102637^ SUCCESS. You can see the pli­er marks on the but­ton.

Here is what the back of the OEM unit looks like…which, btw, was quite unlike the dia­grams I was see­ing and shown. That blast­ed anten­na cable held us up for a long while and com­plete­ly unex­pect­ed.

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Micro­phone Place­ment: The next on the list was decid­ing where to put the micro­phone for audio calls. I want­ed to clip it onto the head­lin­er after watch­ing this video and run the cord down the A‑pillar, but after try­ing and fail­ing to pry the trim (ANOTHER set of attach­ments that aren’t sup­posed to removed by ama­teurs methinks…considering the cur­tain airbags that make Sub­aru’s awe­some in crash tests and those hooks make it so that it does­n’t fly into your face), I decid­ed to go with what my broth­er said was rec­om­mend­ed to begin with and much eas­i­er which is to just mount it on the steer­ing wheel and run the line a short dis­tance behind the pan­els. Worked total­ly fine when test­ing out sound lat­er.

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Next cou­ple steps were done in tan­dem and this is where I start­ed to for­get to take pic­tures because it was hook­ing up the last wires and try­ing to fig­ure out the stu­pid steer­ing wheel adapter thing. My broth­er was busy putting togeth­er the adapter kit for the unit itself. Ini­tial­ly (hav­ing read some reviews that com­plained about the qual­i­ty of the Metra plas­tic as com­pared to the hefty OEM met­al brack­ets) he placed the OEM brack­ets on it, which was great, but we found that then the trim plate for the front would­n’t secure to any­thing, so we switched back to the plas­tic which was per­fect­ly fine. Posi-taps were great.

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After fid­dling back and forth (hook­ing and unhook­ing the bat­tery ter­mi­nal too…) and watch­ing videos again and hem­ming and haw­ing over the instruc­tions, we gave up alto­geth­er, zip­tied the adapter into one of those help­ful holes already in the car, zip-tied the wires to be more neat and to make sure there was no undue stress placed upon any wires. **huh. I just had a thought after look­ing at the above picture…I won­der if the prob­lem was that I had the green/blue wire from the adapter already con­nect­ed when I tried to pro­gram the thing, which seemed to be work­ing fine and accept­ing the commands…just would­n’t trans­late into the unit itself. I think the instruc­tions tell you to hook it up after wards. ** Before plac­ing the trim back on, we test the unit and fid­dle some more with the Pac-Audio to no avail.

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Sound: Check. Blue Tooth: a lit­tle spot­ty, but check. Radio: check. It was on mute ini­tial­ly and we were scratch­ing our heads as to why audio was­n’t play­ing when BAM it came on and blew our ears off. Great! The sound was so much bet­ter than my OEM unit! Tried the call func­tion. Played with oth­er set­tings. Tried one more time for the steer­ing wheel adapter before call­ing it a day and trim replaced.

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TADAAAAAA!!

We tried out Android, iPod, USB, micro USB, charg­ing, CD and of course, even DVD:

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Park­ing brake bypass: Suc­cess!

And you can see the vari­able light fea­ture too which is pret­ty cool.

One of these days I’ll either try again with the Pac-Audio or try to find an eas­i­er-to-use adapter.

Oh here’s a sound test for you

So here’s a side-by side for com­par­ison’s sake:

Pret­ty proud of myself. 🙂 So over­all it was­n’t all that dif­fi­cult. Just a few things here and there, but all quite doable giv­en I don’t have nav­i­ga­tion or an amaz­ing sound sys­tem to com­pli­cate life. The steer­ing wheel con­trols were com­pli­cat­ed enough. We should be ready for the beach trip now and now I can cus­tomize pic­tures and songs for the road with­out a huge tan­gle of wires that my Sansa Clip+ gave me in the old con­fig­u­ra­tion. Also, peo­ple with fat fin­gers aren’t going to like the small access to the vol­ume knob, because of the way the Out­back has the con­sole on such an inclined angled. Me? I’m fine with it.