Category: Car

2022 Ford Maverick Bed Measurements

2022 Ford Mav­er­ick XL Hybrid with Co-Pilot

I got the cheapo cheap­est pack­age (only added the Co-Pilot sys­tem). While it cer­tain­ly feels low cost, this gives me wig­gle room to upgrade!

Includ­ed are some mea­sure­ments I’ve tak­en of the FlexBed, pick­up bed, along with a clos­er look at the fac­to­ry screw holes.

Note: My bed nei­ther has a drop-in nor a spray-in lin­er.

Rear of Bed (near cab)

  • Green: rear wood plank divider slot
  • Blue: widest mea­sure­ment above the wheel wells
  • Yel­low: Indent on top of wheel wells
  • Pink: points to the direc­tion of truck cab, rear wall of bed

Tail­gate

  • Red: max­i­mum width open­ing of the tail­gate
  • Green: Height to top of tail­gate lip from the low­est part of bed floor (the con­cave, not con­vex por­tion of floor ridges)
  • Blue: denotes the tail­gate and both D‑pillars

Bed Side

  • Hot Pink: denotes truck cab, tail­gate, and bed floor
  • Beige: loca­tion and dis­tance between bed­side anchor screw holes
  • Medi­um Pur­ple: dis­tance between first set of bed­side screw holes
  • Orange: dis­tance between sec­ond set of bed­side screw holes
  • Yel­low: dis­tance between third set of bed­side screw holes
  • Light Blue: dis­tance between fourth set of bed­side screw holes
  • Green: length of bed­side screw hole chan­nel
  • Red: length of wheel arch shelf
  • Light Green: Space between rear of bed and rear wood divider
  • Medi­um Blue: approx­i­mate length of groove on top of wheel arch shelf
  • Dark Pur­ple: width of both wood div­er slots
  • Dark Blue: length of wheel arch shelf before it curves to the side of the bed
  • Gold: length of area between D‑Pillar and where the wheel arch starts to curve
  • Light pur­ple: dis­tance from top of bed to floor of bed

Flex Bed Notes

  • The length of the bed = the length of the ante­ri­or wood divider slot (43.5in or 110.49cm), mak­ing the Flex Bed an almost square flat wall to flat wall (see pic­tures at bot­tom of post)
  • The pre-drilled bed side holes are in unequal incre­ments
  • Bed side anchor point holes are all about 2 inch­es apart
  • The Bed­side screw hole chan­nel is use­ful for turn­ing and fit­ting the wood dividers for the flexbed
  • Floor tie down anchor point holes are dif­fer­ent from the bed side ones (scroll down to see more)
  • M6 x 1.0 are rec­om­mend­ed fas­ten­ers (Met­ric), with 1⁄4″ is most sim­i­lar in size (SAE)

Bed Side Anchor (near D‑Pillar)

  • The anchor holes (side and floor) are not thread­ed, so you’d either need self-tap­ping hard­ware or a tap­ping set.
  • Side anchor holes are M6 sized

Bed Floor Tie Down Anchor Point

  • Floor anchor holes are not thread­ed
  • They are larg­er than M6 screws, so are like­ly M8 sized
Hard to find anchors for this hole dis­tance
M6x1.0 is too small

Bed Side Screw Hole

  • Bed Side screw holes are thread­ed
  • M8 screws fit per­fect­ly inside
Thread­ed
M6x1.0 and 1⁄4″ are too small

But the M8x1.25 fits per­fect­ly!!

Pic­tures for Per­spec­tive

You can see the piece of wood which is the ante­ri­or wood divider. It fits per­fect­ly length­wise in the bed. The pos­te­ri­or divider is in place.

Ford Maverick DIY FlexBed’s Projects

updat­ed 2/12/2022

This is just a writ­ten-out ver­sion of the DIY instruc­tions by Ford found in their videos HERE. My expe­ri­ence with attempt­ing some of the projects are HERE.

Bed Divider

  • Cut wood to size and place into built-in slots to cre­ate dividers
    • Rear Board (near tail­gate): 54in
    • Front Board (near cab): 43–1/4in

Bed Side Rails

  • Mate­ri­als Need­ed:
    • Two - 30in, 12-gauge, half slot­ted met­al fram­ing strut chan­nels
    • Four - 12-gauge, blue, strut end caps for B‑series chan­nel
    • Four - 3⁄8″ x 11⁄16″ machin­ery eye bolts
    • Four - 3/8in nylon strut cone nuts
    • Four - 3⁄8″ x 1–1/2″ fend­er wash­ers
    • Six - M6 — 1.0 x 25mm inter­nal hex, but­ton-head cap screw (See note below)
    • Six - 1–1/4″ Fend­er wash­ers* (see step 2‑C)
    • Met­al File
  • Ford’s How-To Video: HERE
    • Make sure to use safe­ty gear (glass­es, gloves, etc)
    • Step 1 — Smooth the Edges
      • After cut­ting the met­al struts into 30in pieces, smooth down the edges with a met­al file
    • Step 2 - Insert Cone Nuts
      • Insert 2 nylon cone nuts into each rail (will be used to attach eye bolts lat­er)
      • Align the rail with the cen­ter of the bed
      • Attach rail to bed with the M6 bolts and 1–1/4″ fend­er wash­ers
        • N.B. The video nev­er men­tioned these 1–1/4″ fend­er wash­ers in the mate­ri­als list, and then it appeared in this step
    • Step 3 — Attach Eye Bolts to Spring Nuts
      • Slide the nylon cone nuts to desired loca­tion for the eye bolts
      • Place 1–1/2″ fend­er wash­ers on each eye bolt and screw into strut cone nuts
      • Add end caps to rails
    • Done!
    • Note: The linked video calls for M6 screws, but the pre-drilled side holes in my Mav­er­ick are larg­er than M6’s. The orig­i­nal video from Ford calls for “a mix of M6 and M8 screws.” At this point in time I have yet to get my hands on M8 screws, so I don’t know for sure yet.

Bike Rack

  • Mate­ri­als Need­ed:
    • One - 2″ x 6″ Wood Board approx­i­mate­ly 43.25in long
    • Two - Bike Fork Mounts (that fit your bike)
    • Six - #10 x 1–3/4″ Wood Screws
    • Four - Ratch­et Tie Down Straps
  • Ford’s How-To Video: HERE
    • Step 1 — Posi­tion the Board
      • Insert board at wheel­house area (near the cab)
      • Smooth edges with sand­pa­per if need­ed
      • Fit should be snug but not dif­fi­cult
    • Step 2 — Attach Fork Mounts
      • Mea­sure 14–3/8″ from either side of the board
      • Mark the cen­ter (3 inch­es) of each mea­sure­ment
      • Align the fork mounts cen­tered on the marks
      • Mark hole posi­tions
      • Drill pilot holes with a 13⁄64″ drill bit
      • Align mounts over the holes
      • Dri­ve screws in
      • Insert board with attached mounts into bed
    • Step 3 — Attach Your Bike
      • Remove front wheels and attach to fork mounts
      • Secure the mount fas­ten­ers
      • Use ratch­et tie downs to secure the seat tube to the anchors on truck bed sides
      • Pass straps of anoth­er tie-down across the top tubes and attach it at both sides
    • Step 4 — Secure Tires
      • Posi­tion wheels between the board and truck bed (against the cab)
      • Use adjustable strap to loop the wheel, wood board, and floor anchor togeth­er
      • Make sure all straps are secured tight­ly
    • Done!

Bed Rail Light­ing

  • Mate­ri­als Need­ed:
    • Two - IP86 Rat­ed Water­proof Light­ing Strips
    • Sol­der­ing gun
    • Roll of Elec­tri­cal Tape
    • Pack­age Elec­tri­cal Shrinkwrap
    • One - IP86 rat­ed Water­proof Switch** (see N.B. at end of sec­tion)
    • Pair of Wire Strip­pers
    • Push-Pin Cable Ties
    • Scrap Wire
    • Heat Gun
  • Ford’s How-To Video: HERE
    • Safe­ty Check!
      • Dis­con­nect Bat­tery
      • Nev­er illu­mi­nate while dri­ving
      • Make sure lights do not project above the rails
    • Step 1 — Find the Wire
      • Find wire (make sure bat­tery is dis­con­nect­ed!)
      • Remove the 12‑V access cov­er on D‑Pillar and pull the wiring har­ness from the hold­er
      • Unwind tape con­nect­ing the wire
    • Step 2 — Thread the Wire
      • Thread wire from top of pil­lar down to the har­ness
      • Use elec­tri­cal tape to secure the end of the wire to the match­ing con­nec­tor pig­tail pro­vid­ed with your truck
      • Pull wire from the top so you have suf­fi­cient length of the pig­tail to sol­der to your acces­so­ry
    • Step 3 — Heat the Wire
      • Stripe wires from acces­sories
      • Slide on shrinkwrap before mak­ing the joint
      • Sol­der red to red, and black to black
      • Slide shrinkwrap onto the joint
      • Heat shrinkwrap with heat gun until tight on the joint
      • Push con­nec­tor plate back inside the D‑pillar
    • Step 4 — Attach­ing to the Bed
      • Use cable ties to attach the light­ing so they shine towards the adja­cent bed­side
      • Cut light­ing to length, peel off back­ing to attach to bed, tight­en and trim cable ties
      • Deter­mine desired loca­tion of switch and secure
    • Re-con­nect bat­tery
    • Done!
    • N.B. It is nev­er clar­i­fied in the video, but I assume that you have to repeat on one side what you did on the oth­er? Do you run the strips along the far back of the bed to the oth­er side to con­nect them? The video shows cut­ting the light strip to fit one side. Or maybe have 2 switch­es, one for either side if you want 2?