2022 Ford Maverick DIY Bed Mat

Written: February 23, 2022

  • Cost: $22
  • Time: 1 hour or so
  • I decided to install a DIY floor bed mat in lieu of an official Ford Bed Mat ($140!) or another aftermarket one, because I’d already spent way too much money on this truck.
  • Bought gym mat foam flooring with which I have much experience over the years doing craft projects, in the home gym, and using in the back of my Outback for the dogs, pavers, plants, etc. They are tough yet cushy. Easy to clean. Easy to replace. Affordable.
  • Other supplies: Sharpie, Strong Scissors (this type of foam will kill scissors)

Tips

  • I decided to use the edging pieces as edge guards, but you don’t have to and could just cut the nubs off.
  • Since the pieces don’t fit 100%, I just traced the locking nubs to make my own interlock so that they would be more secure-fit.
  • Your choice to add tape on the underside or even glue them together
  • If you use the floor anchors, don’t forget to cut out the foam around it. I decided not to use mine.
  • Sadly, I forgot about the interlocking thing towards the tailgate, but I don’t feel like doing it again.
  • For a cleaner look, use the Sharpie on the underside of the foam pieces
  • Adhering the pieces together will prevent them from coming apart easily. You can use rubber cement or other adhesives to achieve this
  • If you get Sharpie in unwanted places, use rubbing alcohol
  • This isn’t really a tip, but I just wanted to mention that placing this foam down makes sitting or kneeling or standing in the bed much nicer on the butt and back and hands. Warmer, too.

In Use

I have decided that the bed mat will not be temporary and that I am so glad I decided to use the gym mat foam. Loaded up some soil and other things from a home improvement place. They’re easy to slide things back and forth on and I don’t have to worry about scratches or dirt or water. I really like this option. As a side note, the anterior wood divider fits perfectly longways in the bed.

Only halfway filled up!
4 new tires just fit
Even under the tonneau cover!

2022 Ford Maverick Bed Side Rail System

Written: February 23, 2022 – Updated: December 30, 2022

  • Cost: $45 (tracks) + $24 (stud fittings) + $17 (shipping) + $13.50 (screws) = $99.50
  • Bought two 24″ L-tracks from US Cargo Control along with four L-track single stud fittings to go with it. There are other sizes, I just opted for the two-footers
  • The Maverick’s pre-drilled screw holes are threaded and require M8 screws

Unfortunately, the pre-drilled holes on the Maverick and L-tracks do not line up, so I initially planned to drill 2 extra countersunk holes in the L-tracks to make it fit. The tracks system really does look nice AND are quite light. According to the site details, they weigh together 1.2lbs.

Next issue: the Maverick has M8 holes, the tracks use 1/4″ countersunk hardware (though I found M6 screws fit better than the 1/4″). So now some holes need widening

**Below is the original post I made using a drill to try and widen the holes in order to accept the M8 screws. It is lengthy and time consuming and ugly, honestly. Read on if you like, but ten months after the fact, I found out that all you need is a M8 thread tap and t-handle tapping wrench. Prepping to tap the threads for the floor anchors (click me!), I tested it on these bedside rails, and wow. In what took me originally a few hours, took maybe 2 minutes. Plus, it’s MUCH nicer looking.

You might be able to use a chamfer or a deburring tool to try and set the screw flush, but I don’t have those tools yet. Thanks for reading! The L-tracks are still super awesome, and great quality looking at them even now. I was able to use them once and they were solid solid solid. However, Ford now offers a Cleat Tie Down Kit for $400 if you want something official**

Original post start

After having fun using power tools to expand the holes, I realized that the countersink bit I had was too small. Huh.

After test-fitting it in the truck bed, I returned to happily make holes. This part was fun, and it was awesome to have success making the hole until…

...major problem reached. Because the holes needed to be in the wrong part of the track, there was no way to get the countersink bit in. That’s not that big of a deal, but the screw not fitting in there at all is a huge deal.

Nothing worked.

So, Plan B it is. Went back to the truck bed for further scrutiny, then planned to enlarge 2 of the holes since they were both just off by maybe half a centimeter. Easier said than done. Still the issue with too small of a counter sink. This project was becoming a total experimental project. Those beautiful L-tracks were looking quite…worked on.

Plan C was going to be M8 sized eyelet screws. In fact, I might still do that given that there is one screw hole on either side of the bed with nothing it.

Single M8 hole left on either side

Lots of time, teeth clenching, lubricant, and metal shavings later, I was satisfied and went to install them.

YAY!! The screws are absolutely not flush, but I decided that I actually rather like it since I didn’t spring for rail end caps and the screw heads act a bit like stops for the stud fittings.

Ignoring the weird drilled out holes, it looks pretty good! Just have to make sure not to hook anything to the ends and focus any force near the screw holds.

Pretty proud of myself and definitely learned new things today. Like to not brush at metal shavings with your bare hands because little pieces of metal in your finger is painful.