DIY Scented Oil Air Freshener Refill

writ­ten and updat­ed 5/16/2023

What: Wick and oil refill for scent­ed oil air fresh­en­er

Why: It’s waste­ful to buy brand new air fresh­en­ers every time when it’s pos­si­ble to just refill

Sup­plies: Old scent­ed oil air fresh­en­er, replace­ment wick, scent­ed oil refill

Cost: Reed Dif­fuser Oil Refill ($35.00) + Cot­ton Refill Fil­ter Sticks 4in, 40pcs ($6.99) = $41.99

Time: 5 min­utes

Process

Take off cap, remove old wick, refill with oil of choice (be care­ful of spilling or splashage. It is rec­om­mend­ed to use paper tow­els, eye pro­tec­tion, and gloves) use 3 (or how­ev­er many) in its place. DONE.

Notes

Even though, the oil I chose cost me a pret­ty pen­ny ($4.52 a flu­id ounce), the wicks come 40 pieces for $6.99 ($0.17 each), and the scent­ed oil air fresh­en­ers cost around $6.99 (Sta­ples), it’s the prin­ci­ple of waste!

The new­er scent­ed oil air fresh­en­ers say that they hold about 2.5oz, so 7.75fl oz should give you 3.1 refills. This trans­lates to $0.51 for 3 fil­ter sticks ($0.17 x 3), and $14.01 for 2.5 fl oz of oil per refill. That means, it’s $14.52 total per refill…which is still more expen­sive than buy­ing a new air fresh­en­er. In fact, you can buy 2 new refills at $6.99 and have a few cents left over. LOL. At least this way you can cus­tomize your scent!

Maybe you can find a less cost­ly oil! I just looked up a 6.8fl oz for $15.99 ($2.35 per fl oz)!

How To Change Install 2022 Ford Maverick Cabin Air Filter

10/09/2022

Cost: $20.65 + tax & $9.97 ship­ping from here (end­ed up being a tiny but less expen­sive than buy­ing from Ford which is, at this writ­ing, out of stock any­ways)

Time: Under ide­al con­di­tions, about 5 min­utes.

Mate­ri­als: Motor­craft Cab­in Air Fil­ter (FP99)

Installation

The glove box

On the side of the glove box when opened, is a plas­tic stop arm. You need to pull it off…This was, by far, the most dif­fi­cult part of this instal­la­tion because the car is new, and all of the plas­tic is very stiff. The nor­mal method would be to just hook your fin­ger in there and pull. In this case, I need­ed pli­ers but also a microfiber cloth to give it more con­tact (bonus, that reduces dam­age to the piece).

So, if you’re hav­ing trou­ble, brace the glove com­part­ment with your knees, wrap the lit­tle top of the split head with the microfiber (or what­ev­er), squeeze with the pli­ers, and slide the arm off. Geez. Here’s a clos­er look at the offend­ing mech­a­nism. Now that it’s been done once, it is much eas­i­er to do for the future.

On either side of the glove com­part­ment are nice, use­ful tabs. Just depress on both sides and pull the glove com­part­ment out.

The rec­tan­gu­lar box is what we’re look­ing for. To the left and the right are 2 tabs that hold the lid in place over the hous­ing open­ing. Push them apart to free the tabs being held there. Nor­mal­ly, you would just pull the two tabs on top, and it would come out, but the plas­tic is extreme­ly stiff hav­ing nev­er been used, so be care­ful not to break the pieces (I did that in my old car D:) and pull the cov­er down.

Ta da!

Here is a side by side of the new and old. Mim­ic the direc­tion of the air­flow on the orig­i­nal fil­ter. Ford has the labeled on the plas­tic for you, also.

Mhmm. It was time.

From here on out, just go back­wards to replace every­thing: close the fil­ter lid, hook the hinges into their slots, push the glove com­part­ment up until the tabs lock in place, and then replace the stop arm.

Make sure those hinges are placed in prop­er­ly!

The one impor­tant thing to remem­ber is to make sure that the 3 hinges are prop­er­ly seat­ed. If they’re not, then the com­part­ment won’t close smooth­ly. One of mine weren’t clicked in right and clos­ing the com­part­ment was dif­fi­cult and rough.

You are DONE and breath­ing much clean­er air.