instructions – Page 4

10/9/22

What: Installing an OE Ford Tailgate Liner on a 2022 Ford Maverick
Cost: $75 plus shipping
Time: 15-20 minutes
Disclaimer: I am NOT an expert. I am an amateur car owner with passing experience dealing with minor car modifications.

The liner was delivered in a plastic bag and not in its own box, which is really fine, because it’s a super hard, dense plastic meant for abuse. It must be the same material as the drop-in bedliner. It also comes with small bag labeled Kit Hardware P/U Box Ford Mav BT 2022+ (part number: NZ6J-9928546-AB).

These are the contents of the hardware kit. I have no idea what the other pieces are for. Some metal pieces and extra threaded retainer clips

Instead of an instruction sheet, the included paper guides you HERE where you can find the instructions in PDF. Sadly, the instructions for this install aren’t particularly detailed, though initial read seems straightforward enough.

OKAY. Here we go.

Used a T25 screwdriver to remove the 8 screw/washer combos already in in the tailgate.

Here’s a fun look at what’s underneath that plate, there. It’s the lock mechanism and here, I just have the manual lock.

This is where it started getting complicated for me. What is the point of the 4 stickers they have? The instructions look like you just stick them in the corner of the metal? So, I did that. Perhaps it’s to protect the threads from water and rust?

B is the sticker, and it says to put it in the 4 corners

Then the real problem came up: the instructions state that now a T20 socket is needed to replace the screws. It occurred to me that the 2 screws included in the hardware kit are what they’re talking about. Uh oh. Ford’s parts site wasn’t useful, either, because there are no pictures on there.

It came with tape to guard the corners. Made sure to remove that

Well. Okaaay. Sooo. I decided to reuse 4 of the original screws because they seem to fit the 4 middle ports of the liner. The 4 outside ones have a larger hole which means that the original screw’s washers were too small for. I ended up scrounging around in the house for loose washers or possible screws, and miraculously found some black washers slightly larger than the ones on the existing screws. Unfortunately, the washer’s hole was too large. I then doubled them up and it worked, though the screws do stick up more out of the liner.

Doubled them up because the extra washer’s hole is too large for the screw

Since I didn’t have the hex-head screws, I couldn’t torque to the 2.4Nm (1.8lb-ft) as instructed. I tried not to screw it too tightly, but not too loosely either. Hopefully it stays put. Feels good. I tugged on it a few times.

Hurray! 🙂

updated 8/7/2022

What: Kohler Highline Classic K-11499-0 (bought and installed May 2017) toilet fill valve (Fluidmaster Universal 400A OE part – came with toilet) issues

Problem: Months of slow-filling toilet along with a loud squeal noise when float raises with water level. It finally quit filling altogether.

When: August 2022

Supplies: 242 Toilet Replacement Seal, a cup

Cost: Around $4 and gas

Time: 10 minutes

Difficulty: Easy

Process

1. Turn off the water supply (bathroom got a nice cleaning after this)

2. Grab the fill valve cap and twist left to unseat it (you might have to grab the stem of the whole valve to prevent the entire valve from spinning. Here’s a video)

3. Now to unhook the cap from the float. Give it a nice, careful tug, being aware that it is plastic.

4. Examine the fill valve seal for debris. Remove it carefully and inspect underneath for debris. Clean it out. In my case, there was debris underneath that was causing a blockage and therefore no water. It must have been there for a while and then finally occluded the opening.

5. Similarly, inspect the cap-less top of the fill valve for debris.

6. Now that everything is off, let’s go ahead and flush the fill valve itself. Apparently, over the years pieces of Teflon tape, or minerals or other debris can accumulate in the valve. Fluidmaster sets the lifespan of a fill valve at around 7 years (mine is about 5 years old). SO, grab a cup and place it upside-down over the fill valve.

7. Turn on the water supply and flush for about 10-15 seconds (according to Fluidmaster)

8. At this point, you would replace everything and test it out. It was no longer filling slowly after the debris was removed, so BOOM, solved. BUT…the float mechanism no longer worked…as in, the fill valve kept filling without stopping. Oh, great. I busted it somehow. Removed everything again and found that the original seal looked kind of chewed up around the float pin.

9. Turned the water supply back off, and ran out to the store to grab a 242 Toilet Fill Valve Seal (and other stuff just in case, so I wouldn’t have to run out again, but didn’t need them in the end)

10. Had remove it all again and here is an image of the old seal. If you look at the center, you can see how rough it looks where I tried to push it in with my fingernails and probably from general wear and tear

11. Here’s a side by side of the old seal and the new one

12. Slide the seal onto the cap

13. Now to reassemble it all. Line up the cap assembly with the float assembly stem groove and snap it in

14. Place the now-attached cap back on the valve. Remember that you have to turn right to replace it, so place the cap accordingly so that none of the parts interfere with each other

*Let’s twist again! Like we did last summer!*

15. Twist it to the right and, YAY, it’s back on!

16. MOMENT OF TRUTH. Turn on the water supply. You should immediately hear the water filling up. Now lift up on the float mechanism. If the tank quits filling, you are DONE, and it is REPAIRED! GREAT JOB!

Tag: instructions

DIY: 2022 Ford Maverick Tailgate Liner Install

DIY: Toilet Fill Valve Seal Repair