Tag: Ford

2022 Ford Maverick Bed Measurements

2022 Ford Maverick XL Hybrid with Co-Pilot

I got the cheapo cheapest package (only added the Co-Pilot system). While it certainly feels low cost, this gives me wiggle room to upgrade!

Included are some measurements I’ve taken of the FlexBed, pickup bed, along with a closer look at the factory screw holes.

Note: My bed neither has a drop-in nor a spray-in liner.

Rear of Bed (near cab)

  • Green: rear wood plank divider slot
  • Blue: widest measurement above the wheel wells
  • Yellow: Indent on top of wheel wells
  • Pink: points to the direction of truck cab, rear wall of bed

Tailgate

  • Red: maximum width opening of the tailgate
  • Green: Height to top of tailgate lip from the lowest part of bed floor (the concave, not convex portion of floor ridges)
  • Blue: denotes the tailgate and both D-pillars

Bed Side

  • Hot Pink: denotes truck cab, tailgate, and bed floor
  • Beige: location and distance between bedside anchor screw holes
  • Medium Purple: distance between first set of bedside screw holes
  • Orange: distance between second set of bedside screw holes
  • Yellow: distance between third set of bedside screw holes
  • Light Blue: distance between fourth set of bedside screw holes
  • Green: length of bedside screw hole channel
  • Red: length of wheel arch shelf
  • Light Green: Space between rear of bed and rear wood divider
  • Medium Blue: approximate length of groove on top of wheel arch shelf
  • Dark Purple: width of both wood diver slots
  • Dark Blue: length of wheel arch shelf before it curves to the side of the bed
  • Gold: length of area between D-Pillar and where the wheel arch starts to curve
  • Light purple: distance from top of bed to floor of bed

Flex Bed Notes

  • The length of the bed = the length of the anterior wood divider slot (43.5in or 110.49cm), making the Flex Bed an almost square flat wall to flat wall (see pictures at bottom of post)
  • The pre-drilled bed side holes are in unequal increments
  • Bed side anchor point holes are all about 2 inches apart
  • The Bedside screw hole channel is useful for turning and fitting the wood dividers for the flexbed
  • Floor tie down anchor point holes are different from the bed side ones (scroll down to see more)
  • M6 x 1.0 are recommended fasteners (Metric), with 1/4″ is most similar in size (SAE)

Bed Side Anchor (near D-Pillar)

  • The anchor holes (side and floor) are not threaded, so you’d either need self-tapping hardware or a tapping set.
  • Side anchor holes are M6 sized

Bed Floor Tie Down Anchor Point

  • Floor anchor holes are not threaded
  • They are larger than M6 screws, so are likely M8 sized
Hard to find anchors for this hole distance
M6x1.0 is too small

Bed Side Screw Hole

  • Bed Side screw holes are threaded
  • M8 screws fit perfectly inside
Threaded
M6x1.0 and 1/4″ are too small

But the M8x1.25 fits perfectly!!

Pictures for Perspective

You can see the piece of wood which is the anterior wood divider. It fits perfectly lengthwise in the bed. The posterior divider is in place.

Ford Maverick DIY FlexBed’s Projects

updated 2/12/2022

This is just a written-out version of the DIY instructions by Ford found in their videos HERE. My experience with attempting some of the projects are HERE.

Bed Divider

  • Cut wood to size and place into built-in slots to create dividers
    • Rear Board (near tailgate): 54in
    • Front Board (near cab): 43-1/4in

Bed Side Rails

  • Materials Needed:
    • Two – 30in, 12-gauge, half slotted metal framing strut channels
    • Four – 12-gauge, blue, strut end caps for B-series channel
    • Four – 3/8″ x 11/16″ machinery eye bolts
    • Four – 3/8in nylon strut cone nuts
    • Four – 3/8″ x 1-1/2″ fender washers
    • Six – M6 – 1.0 x 25mm internal hex, button-head cap screw (See note below)
    • Six – 1-1/4″ Fender washers* (see step 2-C)
    • Metal File
  • Ford’s How-To Video: HERE
    • Make sure to use safety gear (glasses, gloves, etc)
    • Step 1 – Smooth the Edges
      • After cutting the metal struts into 30in pieces, smooth down the edges with a metal file
    • Step 2 – Insert Cone Nuts
      • Insert 2 nylon cone nuts into each rail (will be used to attach eye bolts later)
      • Align the rail with the center of the bed
      • Attach rail to bed with the M6 bolts and 1-1/4″ fender washers
        • N.B. The video never mentioned these 1-1/4″ fender washers in the materials list, and then it appeared in this step
    • Step 3 – Attach Eye Bolts to Spring Nuts
      • Slide the nylon cone nuts to desired location for the eye bolts
      • Place 1-1/2″ fender washers on each eye bolt and screw into strut cone nuts
      • Add end caps to rails
    • Done!
    • Note: The linked video calls for M6 screws, but the pre-drilled side holes in my Maverick are larger than M6’s. The original video from Ford calls for “a mix of M6 and M8 screws.” At this point in time I have yet to get my hands on M8 screws, so I don’t know for sure yet.

Bike Rack

  • Materials Needed:
    • One – 2″ x 6″ Wood Board approximately 43.25in long
    • Two – Bike Fork Mounts (that fit your bike)
    • Six – #10 x 1-3/4″ Wood Screws
    • Four – Ratchet Tie Down Straps
  • Ford’s How-To Video: HERE
    • Step 1 – Position the Board
      • Insert board at wheelhouse area (near the cab)
      • Smooth edges with sandpaper if needed
      • Fit should be snug but not difficult
    • Step 2 – Attach Fork Mounts
      • Measure 14-3/8″ from either side of the board
      • Mark the center (3 inches) of each measurement
      • Align the fork mounts centered on the marks
      • Mark hole positions
      • Drill pilot holes with a 13/64″ drill bit
      • Align mounts over the holes
      • Drive screws in
      • Insert board with attached mounts into bed
    • Step 3 – Attach Your Bike
      • Remove front wheels and attach to fork mounts
      • Secure the mount fasteners
      • Use ratchet tie downs to secure the seat tube to the anchors on truck bed sides
      • Pass straps of another tie-down across the top tubes and attach it at both sides
    • Step 4 – Secure Tires
      • Position wheels between the board and truck bed (against the cab)
      • Use adjustable strap to loop the wheel, wood board, and floor anchor together
      • Make sure all straps are secured tightly
    • Done!

Bed Rail Lighting

  • Materials Needed:
    • Two – IP86 Rated Waterproof Lighting Strips
    • Soldering gun
    • Roll of Electrical Tape
    • Package Electrical Shrinkwrap
    • One – IP86 rated Waterproof Switch** (see N.B. at end of section)
    • Pair of Wire Strippers
    • Push-Pin Cable Ties
    • Scrap Wire
    • Heat Gun
  • Ford’s How-To Video: HERE
    • Safety Check!
      • Disconnect Battery
      • Never illuminate while driving
      • Make sure lights do not project above the rails
    • Step 1 – Find the Wire
      • Find wire (make sure battery is disconnected!)
      • Remove the 12-V access cover on D-Pillar and pull the wiring harness from the holder
      • Unwind tape connecting the wire
    • Step 2 – Thread the Wire
      • Thread wire from top of pillar down to the harness
      • Use electrical tape to secure the end of the wire to the matching connector pigtail provided with your truck
      • Pull wire from the top so you have sufficient length of the pigtail to solder to your accessory
    • Step 3 – Heat the Wire
      • Stripe wires from accessories
      • Slide on shrinkwrap before making the joint
      • Solder red to red, and black to black
      • Slide shrinkwrap onto the joint
      • Heat shrinkwrap with heat gun until tight on the joint
      • Push connector plate back inside the D-pillar
    • Step 4 – Attaching to the Bed
      • Use cable ties to attach the lighting so they shine towards the adjacent bedside
      • Cut lighting to length, peel off backing to attach to bed, tighten and trim cable ties
      • Determine desired location of switch and secure
    • Re-connect battery
    • Done!
    • N.B. It is never clarified in the video, but I assume that you have to repeat on one side what you did on the other? Do you run the strips along the far back of the bed to the other side to connect them? The video shows cutting the light strip to fit one side. Or maybe have 2 switches, one for either side if you want 2?