Tag: OEM

How To Change Install 2022 Ford Maverick Cabin Air Filter

10/09/2022

Cost: $20.65 + tax & $9.97 ship­ping from here (end­ed up being a tiny but less expen­sive than buy­ing from Ford which is, at this writ­ing, out of stock any­ways)

Time: Under ide­al con­di­tions, about 5 min­utes.

Mate­ri­als: Motor­craft Cab­in Air Fil­ter (FP99)

Installation

The glove box

On the side of the glove box when opened, is a plas­tic stop arm. You need to pull it off…This was, by far, the most dif­fi­cult part of this instal­la­tion because the car is new, and all of the plas­tic is very stiff. The nor­mal method would be to just hook your fin­ger in there and pull. In this case, I need­ed pli­ers but also a microfiber cloth to give it more con­tact (bonus, that reduces dam­age to the piece).

Plas­tic arm
Nor­mal method would be to just slide in a fin­ger and pull

So, if you’re hav­ing trou­ble, brace the glove com­part­ment with your knees, wrap the lit­tle top of the split head with the microfiber (or what­ev­er), squeeze with the pli­ers, and slide the arm off. Geez. Here’s a clos­er look at the offend­ing mech­a­nism. Now that it’s been done once, it is much eas­i­er to do for the future.

On either side of the glove com­part­ment are nice, use­ful tabs. Just depress on both sides and pull the glove com­part­ment out.

Two tabs on either side
Close up
Just push in on both sides and pull the glove com­part­ment out

The rec­tan­gu­lar box is what we’re look­ing for. To the left and the right are 2 tabs that hold the lid in place over the hous­ing open­ing. Push them apart to free the tabs being held there. Nor­mal­ly, you would just pull the two tabs on top, and it would come out, but the plas­tic is extreme­ly stiff hav­ing nev­er been used, so be care­ful not to break the pieces (I did that in my old car D:) and pull the cov­er down.

An up close of the side tab

Ta da!

Here is a side by side of the new and old. Mim­ic the direc­tion of the air­flow on the orig­i­nal fil­ter. Ford has the labeled on the plas­tic for you, also.

Mhmm. It was time.

From here on out, just go back­wards to replace every­thing: close the fil­ter lid, hook the hinges into their slots, push the glove com­part­ment up until the tabs lock in place, and then replace the stop arm.

Make sure those hinges are placed in prop­er­ly!

The one impor­tant thing to remem­ber is to make sure that the 3 hinges are prop­er­ly seat­ed. If they’re not, then the com­part­ment won’t close smooth­ly. One of mine weren’t clicked in right and clos­ing the com­part­ment was dif­fi­cult and rough.

You are DONE and breath­ing much clean­er air.

DIY: 2022 Ford Maverick Tailgate Liner Install

10/9/22

  • What: Installing an OE Ford Tail­gate Lin­er on a 2022 Ford Mav­er­ick
  • Cost: $75 plus ship­ping
  • Time: 15–20 min­utes
  • Dis­claimer: I am NOT an expert. I am an ama­teur car own­er with pass­ing expe­ri­ence deal­ing with minor car mod­i­fi­ca­tions.

The lin­er was deliv­ered in a plas­tic bag and not in its own box, which is real­ly fine, because it’s a super hard, dense plas­tic meant for abuse. It must be the same mate­r­i­al as the drop-in bed­lin­er. It also comes with small bag labeled Kit Hard­ware P/U Box Ford Mav BT 2022+ (part num­ber: NZ6J-9928546-AB).

Upside
Under­side
Made in USA

These are the con­tents of the hard­ware kit. I have no idea what the oth­er pieces are for. Some met­al pieces and extra thread­ed retain­er clips
Part infor­ma­tion for the hard­ware kit

Instead of an instruc­tion sheet, the includ­ed paper guides you HERE where you can find the instruc­tions in PDF. Sad­ly, the instruc­tions for this install aren’t par­tic­u­lar­ly detailed, though ini­tial read seems straight­for­ward enough.

OKAY. Here we go.

Used a T25 screw­driv­er to remove the 8 screw/washer com­bos already in in the tail­gate.

Here’s a fun look at what’s under­neath that plate, there. It’s the lock mech­a­nism and here, I just have the man­u­al lock.

Whole pan­el comes off
Man­u­al lock mech­a­nism

This is where it start­ed get­ting com­pli­cat­ed for me. What is the point of the 4 stick­ers they have? The instruc­tions look like you just stick them in the cor­ner of the met­al? So, I did that. Per­haps it’s to pro­tect the threads from water and rust?

B is the stick­er, and it says to put it in the 4 cor­ners
I don’t know?

Then the real prob­lem came up: the instruc­tions state that now a T20 sock­et is need­ed to replace the screws. It occurred to me that the 2 screws includ­ed in the hard­ware kit are what they’re talk­ing about. Uh oh. Ford’s parts site was­n’t use­ful, either, because there are no pic­tures on there.

It came with tape to guard the cor­ners. Made sure to remove that
Orig­i­nal screws fit fine over the 4 mid­dle holes
Side holes with the orig­i­nal and the intend­ed screws with larg­er wash­er and hex head for com­par­i­son

Well. Okaaay. Sooo. I decid­ed to reuse 4 of the orig­i­nal screws because they seem to fit the 4 mid­dle ports of the lin­er. The 4 out­side ones have a larg­er hole which means that the orig­i­nal screw’s wash­ers were too small for. I end­ed up scroung­ing around in the house for loose wash­ers or pos­si­ble screws, and mirac­u­lous­ly found some black wash­ers slight­ly larg­er than the ones on the exist­ing screws. Unfor­tu­nate­ly, the wash­er’s hole was too large. I then dou­bled them up and it worked, though the screws do stick up more out of the lin­er.

Cor­rect screw/washer
Orig­i­nal screw/washer
Togeth­er for com­par­i­son

Dou­bled them up because the extra wash­er’s hole is too large for the screw
Does stick up a lit­tle

Since I did­n’t have the hex-head screws, I could­n’t torque to the 2.4Nm (1.8lb-ft) as instruct­ed. I tried not to screw it too tight­ly, but not too loose­ly either. Hope­ful­ly it stays put. Feels good. I tugged on it a few times.

Before
After

Hur­ray! 🙂