I already had the paint, brushes, Mod Podge, and submersible pump, plus a coupon, so my total cost is different than the total cost of supplies
Other Supplies: Driver, Drill Bits, Rock(s)
*Optional or In-Place-Of: 3D Printedbowl and/or trayis the easiest and cheapest method if you happen to have one
Total Cost: $98.94
My Cost: $56.36
Bird Bath Holder options:
Pole-mount dish
In-ground dish holder
Deck rail-mounted dish
Free-standing holder
Or just on the ground
Process
This originally started as a birdbath, but not only was it too small to be a birdbath, but none of the animals used it as that. They were more interested in drinking the water, so now it’s a Wildlife Waterer. Occasionally, the camera aimed at it will catch a bird bathing in it
Schematic
Drill Holes in Upper Tray
Drill Holes in the plastic bird bowl (smaller holes for water passage, big for the tube), and a notch for the power cord.
You can place the water hose in the center or offset depending on your preference
*3D Printer
Easiest and cheapest method if you happen to own a machine
If using 3D printer, I’d recommend this BOWL customized to your specifications (reduced the thickness). You can add a little notch for the power cord.
When in doubt choose a dark color (prevents light penetration which allows algae to grow). My design allows for the system to be easily taken apart and cleaned. The reason there’s a reservoir of water that houses the pump underneath the tray is that offering animals toxic algae or fungus-infected water can kill them.
The little tabs are optional
The tray had broken over the winter just enough to allow the cord to pass through.
Paint
If using clear saucers/bowl, paint outer layer (use 3 or 4 layers as they are so thin). Darker are better colors to prevent algae.
Note: Apparently, birds are attracted to either their own plumage colors or for the shy birds, neutral colors like drab green, gray, and brown. Birds supposedly dislike white.
Assembly
Because I was using cheap saucers, I stacked them 3 or 4 deep (for strength). Then, the submersible pump goes on the bottom. On top of that, place the drilled bowl to create separation from the motor, passing the tube and cords through their respective holes
Fill with water
By the Power of the Sun
Connect the male USB of the submersible pump to the female USB on the solar panel (or however your power hookup is) and test out the water flow.
Interesting Note: there must be enough light to start the motor, but subsequent power requires much less (physics!). Meaning, even though direct sunlight is needed to start the pump, indirect sunlight (part shade) is okay for continuous operation
Connect the cables
Power!!!
Starting ‘er up!
Sun on! Sun Off!
Tube Orientation Options
Cut the tube shorter
Place a little aerator on the end and drill small holes in the top of the tube to create a sprinkler effect
No tube, just pure aeration
Long Tube – water current
Without Tube – lots of bubbles
Short Tube
I was testing stuff out on a heated waterer I bought later after making mine
Aerated Short Tube
The aerator is just a random thing I found outside on the ground while walking the dog. It just so happens to be the right size and flexibility for the hose. If you look up “Rubber Silicone Round Plugs” you’ll see several of them. Like THIS
Additions
Place decorative rocks or plain rocks so that bees and smaller birds can perch safely
Get (or 3D print) fountain nozzles for fun sprays
Cleaning!!!
You MUST clean these! As stated above, algae blooms are toxic to animals. Similarly, if too much debris rots in the waterer, fungus can also infect the animals. Warm water and soap. If using rocks, I’ll brush them with a brush. Let them air dry, then return them to the critters
Nasty algae. When cleaning, my paper towel turned red. Red algae blooms are extremely toxic. Not just for the wild critters, but also my dog who likes to lick stuff all the time
What: A DIY foldaway craft table attached to an existing bookshelf
Why: I have a very small space to work in. This way, when I need it, I have a flat surface to do craft things (sewing machine, cutter, drawing, small t-shirt press, etc), and when I don’t, I can just fold it down. No need for a separate folding card table, plus preserving shelf space
Complexity: Easy to Moderate (figuring out the hinge situation was the biggest headache)
Time: 2-3 weekends (1 day + a week to dry paint, 2ish weekends to gather materials, measure/calculate, and do it)
Reference Images
Process
I had to buy a bookcase to fit a very small, specific space right next to the closet so that the closet door could still open, meaning that the shelf has to be rather shallow. Because the shelf isn’t very expensive, though, the shelves’ thicknesses are thin and that has to be taken into consideration.
Wood
I chose Maple Plywood. Was thinking about MDF, but it was too flimsy, too heavy, and too difficult to utilize hardware with.
Once the piece of wood is obtained, perform measurements and calculations, mark them, and prepare a workspace to make necessary cuts. Make sure to avoid knots!
Learned that not all saw blades are created equal. Used a finishing blade on the circular saw for a smooth cut through the plywood. Taped off the edge to prevent splintering, and then set up a jig to control the cut line. To do that, use another, straight piece of wood clamped to the worktable where the circular saw guide will glide against.
Left: work setup, Middle: jig and taped off cut line, Right: Cut!!!
Tested the newly cut piece, found that it was still too long, measured again, and back to cutting! Same setup: tape, jig/guide.
Handle
After poring over lots of hardware, I didn’t like any of the offerings and they were surprisingly expensive, plus I only have 3/4″ thickness to work with. Then someone recommended just cutting out a hole as a handle. What a great idea, and it doesn’t cost anything because I already have a router (no jigsaw, which would have been even easier)!
Decided to use drill bits (stepping up sizes in succession to make the holes larger and bits easier to control), then spade bits (just be sure not to use too large of a spade bit. I did that and messed up the cut, hence the weird mistake on the middle hole. Should have just stuck with the 5/8 which made a hole bit enough to fit the router bit). Strong recommendation to mark on the UNDERSIDE of the wood. Thank goodness my spade bit booboo only affected the underside
Just trying to both remove some structure and widen the holes enough to allow the router in
When working with routers, BE SURE that the bit is ALL THE WAY IN. Mine kept flinging out because I didn’t make sure of that (actually, I simply forgot how to use it). Super dangerous! I highly recommend using a guide/jig for the router if you don’t have a router table.
Left: router bit all the way in; Center: jig for the router; Right: Almost done!
When considering paint, I wanted to be sure that it would be able to withstand some wear and tear, so I went with a nice paint. The sample size was perfect for only covering one side of the tabletop with 3 coats.
I really hate the sound of sanding wood
I messed up with the paint color. Tip: When color matching, DON’T USE YOUR PHONEPICTURES. The post-processing or lighting will mess it up and you’ll get the totally wrong color like I did. Thankfully, the shelf came with veneer stickers which I brought with me to paint match the 2nd time around.
Mistake:
Redo:
Tack Cloth
Much better
Behr’s Dynasty and Marquee paints are awesome
It takes over a week before the paint will quit being so sticky, especially if there are several thick coats. Apparently, it can take up to several months to cure all the way!
LEgs
It’s really hard to find legs for something like this. There’s always the option of a fold-out diagonal bracing (as seen in the reference images above), but I wanted dedicated legs since I’m planning on putting heavy items and pressure on it. Ended up finding a company off Amazon that allows you to choose a height and will even do custom orders. The one I chose telescopes and folds!
Unfortunately, they’re sent from China, so it took longer than I’d planned. The product was good quality. There ended up being more holes than screws… So, I just secured it until it seemed solid enough.
Steps: Measure, mark, awl, pilot hole (used tape to prevent punching through), install
Upper Left: had a bit and screw gauge which was super helpful; Center Top: Used an awl to help guide the drill bit and prevent slippage; Upper Right: Measured then taped off the drill bit to prevent myself from punching through to the other side of the table; Bottom Row: I’m not sure how many screws are necessary, so I just installed all that were supplied
Didn’t repaint the underside with the brown paint because why?
Hinges
Took me forever to choose a hinge. Logic might point in the direction of a piano hinge, but I figured that the 3/4″ board vs. 1/4″ shelf thickness might be a lot to weight and result in possible fracture, so decided on strap hinges to help distribute the weight and prevent possible breakage from repeated use. In retrospect, I wonder if a piano hinge would be better? It would certainly have been a much easier install. I also bought and considered support hinges on the sides though did not use them.
Most of my time during this project was calculating, measuring, and trying to use tape to help with visualizing the end result
Test piece with tapeCalculating that gap is the worst
Spent sooo much time trying to visualize and calculate things like strap hinge gap and clearance. This is why a piano hinge would have been way more straightforward
Hardware. What do you use to install on a 3/4″ piece of plywood? What if it punches through to the other side? Short screws are really hard to find. I ended up settling on #12 thread 3/4″ length flat head screws. 3/4″ length on 3/4″ thickness?? The metal hinge itself should give just enough buffer to prevent a punch-through.
Time to install the hinges to the tabletop. At some point, you have calculated as much as you can, so you just have to do it. I was incredibly nervous doing this. You can’t redo it after everything you’ve already done.
I had to turn to the internet to find the screws for the 1/4″ shelf. I got #12 gauge 1/2″ length screws. Same with the table side, the hope is that the hinge, again, will buffer enough to prevent a punch through
The plywood was too heavy for me to lift on my own, so I thought maybe laying the bookshelf on its side would help. It’s fine for the top hinge when lying down, but it ended up skewing the bottom hinge. The best bet would be to jig up some sort of support, find a helper, or better yet, find a table/chair that will hold the board up steadily and flat while you secure the hinges. Mine is off-kilter because I laid it on its side. Doggone it!!! I don’t recommend doing it this way.
Laid that shelf on its side to try and install the hinge straps. The little felt pieces you see on the underside are just adhesive felt strips that are cut to cushion the metal legs as its folded up against the wood
If you insist on using this method, then at least turn the bookshelf to the other side to help prevent skewing, and to not do it on carpet if possible. The problem is that not only is the plywood heavy, but so is the shelf. Trying to flip it onto the other side has a high chance of ripping out or breaking the already installed hinge. That’s why I still do not recommend this method, even if it’s doable. Just rig up a support for the table or find a helper. It’s a waste especially given how long it took to even get to this point of the project. Ugggh!
Wall anchoring
DON’T SKIP THIS STEP!!! Seriously!! The table is heavy compared to the bookshelf, so it WILL tip!
Just be sure that everything is level (I had to use a wood panel underneath plus cardboard box shims to make it level) and that the carpet (if your floor is carpet) isn’t impeding anything, and then use wall anchors! Find a stud or invest in some really nice drywall anchors. I’ve always used the E-Z Ancor brand and like them a lot.
Super solid!!
End Result
In the end, I chose not to use the support hinges I bought because it was too much work, too complex looking, and it seemed steady enough without it, especially with the shelf anchored to the wall. I have yet to try it out with any projects, but I will! Eventually!
Though I’m disappointed in the installation mistake, I am just happy to be done with this project that I thought would take be 2 weekends but ended up taking mover a month. Why? Weather (I try to do things outside since I lack a dedicated workshop), delivery wait times, messing up on the paint, and missing hardware.
For reference, the table sits about 36″ off the ground, the height of a bar-height table.
Project Images
The upper, unfinished wood pictures are when the wood was uncut. There are 3 open shelves above and 3 under the tabletop
