How to View House Roof Without Climbing onto It

written 5/19/25, updated 5/19/25

What

Viewing roof without climbing on it

Why

Too tall, unsafe

Effort and Time

Easy & Quick

Sometimes you want to view your roof. You don’t want to pay a professional to come do it you don’t have to, but you also want to know if there’s damage that needs to be addressed. Say, you live in house with more than one-story and you really don’t have a ladder nor want to climb that high, or you simply don’t feel comfortable on one (especially by yourself! I knew a capable, single man whose ladder kicked out and he landed on his feet 2 stories down which fractured both ankles and his back. True story). Here are some options available to you without costing an arm and a leg or a back monetarily and physically (hopefully).

Methods

Disclaimer: There are many different types of situations and house configurations out there. Also, I am NOT a professional, just a DIYer in a townhouse.

Camera on Stick – Easiest, Cheapest Method

Pros: Easy, Fast, Safe

Cons: May have to buy items if you don’t already have them, limited by length and curves

Materials: Livestreaming Camera, Pole (broom, garden, PVC pipe, anything solid and strong), Duct Tape, Phone/Viewing Screen

Cost: You can get a decent camera (beware unreputable brands and apps in case they release malware into your home internet system) for less than $15, Dollar Tree sells broom handles and tape for $1.25 each. Assuming you own a smartphone and nothing else, you can do this for under $20.

Instructions:

  • Most houses these days have wi-fi connected security cameras that can livestream, a broom or some other strong pole(s), and tape
  • Decide on the best place to view your roof from (e.g. upstairs window)
  • Duct tape your camera to the tip of the pole, making sure it’s secure
  • If you need height, duct tape together a few of them making sure the pole overlap is enough to stay strong when you extend it
  • Open the camera app and start livestreaming the camera
  • If you want to and have the function, hit the “Record” button
  • Extend your camera-on-a-stick towards the roof with a firm grip, and inspect it
  • Watch video on phone later

DONE. Easy Peasy.

Drone

Pros: Easy, Good View, Maneuverable

Cons: Expensive unless you already own one or want a nice one, Crash/loss Potential, Beware drone flying laws

Because the stupid app is stupid, I tried to tape a camera to the drone which otherwise flies decently for something under $50

Materials: Drone, Phone

Cost: At least $200 for a decent drone (any less and it’s worthless and possible security risk), $15 subscription fee for app

Would be fine if you already have a good quality drone or want one to begin with, but I wasn’t paying $200-400 for a drone just to look at the roof. Instead, I spent 2 weekends trying this fancy method with 2 cheap drones ($130 together) before I realized I wasted good money. This is useful and easy only if you already have a decent quality drone and/or live in a one-story house. My first drone could fly decently, but the app (3rd party separate from the drone seller) not only failed to load, but tried to hack into the internet system of my house both times I tried to unsuccessfully launch it. So, I got a second drone with its own viewing screen and no need to connect an app, but the drone itself was utter garbage and was impossible to fly. Absolute waste of money. Determined to make it work, I paid for the smallest camera ($42.99) I could find (after hours of scanning the internet) that didn’t need phone connection to work, just an SD card. I taped it to my first drone and tried to fly that up to the roof. Terrified that it would fly off on its own (I’m not very good at flying drones, so I crash often), I tied a string to it, but it didn’t matter in the end because the range between the controller and drone was about 1 story tops. Total FAILURE and an utter waste of money ($172.97. OUCH)! The only good things that came about this is that, 1) Now I know I don’t really care to fly drones anymore, and 2) It’s a fun gadget to antagonize the dog with.

Instruction: Very simple

  • Connect drone to phone
  • Fly up
  • View roof
  • Don’t Crash
  • Review footage

Complete!

Others

Similar to the drone, you could try a Rock Crawler RC Car with a camera either built-in or taped to it. It’s easier to control than a drone, especially the slower speed of the Rock Crawlers, though beware the tilt of the roof, if you can lift it onto the roof with a grabber arm or something. Just don’t drive off the edge! I’d tie a string or fishing line around it in case it does (just don’t get it tangled in the wheels).

An Endoscope could be useful? You could shove it along the roof? It’s flexible enough to snake around things, though the small field of view might not be so great.

Pet Rat with Camera and Leash… Maybe not. A hawk might get it.

You could hire someone to permanently mount a Solar Powered Camera somewhere up there, like the chimney. That way you can view it at any time. Weather could be a problem, as well as retrieving it if you needed to.

Front License Plate Frame Installation Mustang Mach-E: Drill & No-Drill

written 2/17/25, updated 8/24/25

Overview

What

Installing a front license plate frame by both drill and no-drill methods for 2024 Ford Mustang Mach-E GT Rally

Why

To comply with state regulations for display of front tags

Time and Effort

Time: 5-20 minutes

Effort: Easy

Materials & Cost

Supplies

No-Drill

  • 3M Double Sided Waterproof VHB Mounting Foam Tape, 1.18in x 16.5 ft
  • Scissors
  • 91% Isopropyl Alcohol Wipe
  • Adhesion Promoter
  • 180-320 grit Sandpaper
  • Painter’s Tape
  • License Plate Frame (OEM)
  • Plate Frame Hardware (OEM)

Drill

  • Plastic (Poly) Rivet Gun
  • 1/4″ Drill Bit and Driver
  • License Plate Frame (OEM)
  • Plate Frame Hardware (OEM)

Cost

  • $16.99 for 3M tape roll (Amazon)
  • $13.95 for 3-pack Adhesion Promoter packets (Amazon – $4.65 per packet)
  • $17.99 for Plastic Rivet Gun set (Amazon or cheaper from Harbor Freight)
  • Free all others (owned, came with car)

Process: Drill

Pros: Secure, worry-free, fast

Cons: Create holes in bumper (could affect collector’s value), can’t remove easily

  • Find factory dimples on the bumper
  • Using a 1/4″ drill bit, drill holes
  • The 3rd/bottom hole does not have a factory guide dimple

Align and hold the frame to the car in line with the 2 dimples to use it as a template for bottom hole during installation

  • Find the plastic Pop Rivets that came with the frame. Push them through the frame and into the bumper
  • Slide the Rivet Gun over the part sticking out, and squeeze. This will compress the anchor back against the bumper. Release and squeeze again. You should hear a loud CLICK and the rod should come off (*See Notes for a look into how it works)

NOTE: You might have to squeeze a few times, making sure the gun is seated all the way against the frame. If it fails (the rod breaks off, but the rivet does not hold) push it out and try with the other rivet. In case this happens, and you don’t have a spare, make sure to do the top 2 holes first because the frame will hold fine with just two attachments. See Notes section for more information on the hardware

  • Slide the plate into the bracket, secure with screws

DONE!

Process: No-Drill

Pros: Removable, no holes drilled into bumper, no mar after removal

Cons: Not 100% secure, chance of losing plate and frame

WARNING: My first attempt at this failed after a month. At the time, it was installed in the cold winter weather, and I did not employ the use of an adhesion promoter/sandpaper. This is written with the revisions in place. *See NOTES section for my updates regarding success/failure

  • Make sure your license plate frame has enough surface contact areas to adhere it well to the car with 3M tape

This is the vehicle’s original plate frame

  • Go out to your car and dry-fit the frame according to the factory dimpling on the bumper
  • Using painter’s tape, mark out borders to help with aligning (Recommend using strips that attach to both the frame and the car for easiest aligning)
  • Install license plate to frame (Can do this as the last step, if you prefer)

The OEM hardware will not scratch the car, stopping short of the end of the holes

  • With 180-320 grit Sandpaper, use circular motions to rough up the surfaces where the tape will attach
  • Soak either a cotton pad or cotton ball with Rubbing Alcohol (higher percent will dry faster) or use alcohol wipes
  • Wipe down surfaces with the alcohol and wait for them to dry all the way
  • Open the Adhesion Promoter packet (I’d recommend gloves here) and wipe each contact point with a thin layer
  • Allow to dry (90-120 seconds)
  • Measure out and cut the VHB 3M Tape to the size you need for your plate
  • Apply the sticky side to the plate, leaving the other side of the tape (the one that will contact the car) still covered

NOTE: 3M’s instruction for this tape recommends heating up with a hair dryer if using in the winter. This tape is also moveable until compressed and moving it should not affect adhesion properties. Viscosity reaches maximum increase by 72 hours.

Recommended: partially remove the liners in the house before going outside. It can adhere tightly, so you may need to use tweezers if your nails aren’t able to get a good hold

  • Go out to your car
  • Dry fit the frame again, if you’d like
  • Use Rubbing Alcohol to wipe clean the install area of the car, making sure all foreign debris is removed (otherwise the tape will adhere to the debris instead of the car)
  • Wait until it it has evaporated
  • Peel off the liners from the mounting tape
  • Align with the painter’s tape
  • Press
  • Keep pressing with decent pressure for at least a minute (I did around 2-3 minutes. It was easiest with my feet while I messed around on a phone for a bit)
  • Remove the painter’s tape
I tugged and wiggled it. Firm and strong hold!

Done!

Notes

  • Update 2/27/25 (10 days later): Still holding strong and no problems! Been on the highway, through work zones, lots of potholes, speed bumps, took turns too quickly, and plenty of stop and go traffic. So far, so good.
  • Update 3/25/25 (1 month): FAILURE!! Went to walk the dog and found the license plate frame on the ground! Good thing it was at home. I’ve decided to leave the instructions and post, up, though, because I still think it’s doable with some revisions.
  • It’s important to note that all the 3M tape was still adhered well to the car. In fact, they were difficult to remove. Removal left a clean, unmarred surface — exactly the point of adhering as opposed to poking holes. This means that the failure point was on the side of the bracket, and not the tape or the car portion. I wonder if it was because the weather started to change. I installed it in the cold winter, and it fell off when the days warmed up and overnight.
  • Update 3/30/25: Compromise. While I did not want to risk the plate falling off again (what if it happens while on the road?) I still think that it’s possible to adhere with 3M tape without drilling. So, what I did this time was use the drill method for the top two holes and applied the revision process (adhesion promoter and sandpaper) for the lower hole. That way, I have it secure AND I didn’t drill into non-dimpled bumper. I will monitor and continue observing the bond of the lower portion of the frame at regular intervals to see if it holds up
  • Update 8/24/25: With the physical attachments, my bracket has not fallen off, of course. I went to try and tug on the bottom part of the frame where there is just the adhesion, and while it didn’t move much, I can’t really get a good read because of the hardware on the upper portion. At this point, I’m going to say that I do NOT recommend the No-Drill method, but you are welcome to try! If you do, comment and let me know if it works for you!
  • If you look at the wording on the back of the plate frame, you see the letters “PP+EPDM.” These stand for PolyPropylene (PP), plastic, and ethylene-propylene-diene monomers (EPDM), a synthetic rubber. 

Hardware Information

Container License Plate Hardware

BB53-17A386-AA

Ford

1/4″ thickness in hole

1/4″ thickness screws

Plastic Pop Rivet – How it Works

Start

Top View

Bottom View

For fun, I tried it with double thickness to see what would happen. The first attempt failed, highlighting that if the ridged portion does not grab, then it will not stay in place and become loose. The second attempt succeeded but was extremely difficult to squeeze.

You can see how there’s more of the ridged part on the single thickness before it cut off

Here’s the failed rivet