DIY Scented Oil Air Freshener Refill

written and updated 5/16/2023

What: Wick and oil refill for scented oil air freshener

Why: It’s wasteful to buy brand new air fresheners every time when it’s possible to just refill

Supplies: Old scented oil air freshener, replacement wick, scented oil refill

Cost: Reed Diffuser Oil Refill ($35.00) + Cotton Refill Filter Sticks 4in, 40pcs ($6.99) = $41.99

Time: 5 minutes

Process

Take off cap, remove old wick, refill with oil of choice (be careful of spilling or splashage. It is recommended to use paper towels, eye protection, and gloves) use 3 (or however many) in its place. DONE.

Notes

Even though, the oil I chose cost me a pretty penny ($4.52 a fluid ounce), the wicks come 40 pieces for $6.99 ($0.17 each), and the scented oil air fresheners cost around $6.99 (Staples), it’s the principle of waste!

The newer scented oil air fresheners say that they hold about 2.5oz, so 7.75fl oz should give you 3.1 refills. This translates to $0.51 for 3 filter sticks ($0.17 x 3), and $14.01 for 2.5 fl oz of oil per refill. That means, it’s $14.52 total per refill…which is still more expensive than buying a new air freshener. In fact, you can buy 2 new refills at $6.99 and have a few cents left over. LOL. At least this way you can customize your scent!

Maybe you can find a less costly oil! I just looked up a 6.8fl oz for $15.99 ($2.35 per fl oz)!

How To Change Install 2022 Ford Maverick Cabin Air Filter

10/09/2022

Cost: $20.65 + tax & $9.97 shipping from here (ended up being a tiny but less expensive than buying from Ford which is, at this writing, out of stock anyways)

Time: Under ideal conditions, about 5 minutes.

Materials: Motorcraft Cabin Air Filter (FP99)

Installation

The glove box

On the side of the glove box when opened, is a plastic stop arm. You need to pull it off…This was, by far, the most difficult part of this installation because the car is new, and all of the plastic is very stiff. The normal method would be to just hook your finger in there and pull. In this case, I needed pliers but also a microfiber cloth to give it more contact (bonus, that reduces damage to the piece).

So, if you’re having trouble, brace the glove compartment with your knees, wrap the little top of the split head with the microfiber (or whatever), squeeze with the pliers, and slide the arm off. Geez. Here’s a closer look at the offending mechanism. Now that it’s been done once, it is much easier to do for the future.

On either side of the glove compartment are nice, useful tabs. Just depress on both sides and pull the glove compartment out.

The rectangular box is what we’re looking for. To the left and the right are 2 tabs that hold the lid in place over the housing opening. Push them apart to free the tabs being held there. Normally, you would just pull the two tabs on top, and it would come out, but the plastic is extremely stiff having never been used, so be careful not to break the pieces (I did that in my old car D:) and pull the cover down.

Ta da!

Here is a side by side of the new and old. Mimic the direction of the airflow on the original filter. Ford has the labeled on the plastic for you, also.

Mhmm. It was time.

From here on out, just go backwards to replace everything: close the filter lid, hook the hinges into their slots, push the glove compartment up until the tabs lock in place, and then replace the stop arm.

Make sure those hinges are placed in properly!

The one important thing to remember is to make sure that the 3 hinges are properly seated. If they’re not, then the compartment won’t close smoothly. One of mine weren’t clicked in right and closing the compartment was difficult and rough.

You are DONE and breathing much cleaner air.