How To Change Install 2022 Ford Maverick Cabin Air Filter

10/09/2022

Cost: $20.65 + tax & $9.97 ship­ping from here (end­ed up being a tiny but less expen­sive than buy­ing from Ford which is, at this writ­ing, out of stock any­ways)

Time: Under ide­al con­di­tions, about 5 min­utes.

Mate­ri­als: Motor­craft Cab­in Air Fil­ter (FP99)

Installation

The glove box

On the side of the glove box when opened, is a plas­tic stop arm. You need to pull it off…This was, by far, the most dif­fi­cult part of this instal­la­tion because the car is new, and all of the plas­tic is very stiff. The nor­mal method would be to just hook your fin­ger in there and pull. In this case, I need­ed pli­ers but also a microfiber cloth to give it more con­tact (bonus, that reduces dam­age to the piece).

So, if you’re hav­ing trou­ble, brace the glove com­part­ment with your knees, wrap the lit­tle top of the split head with the microfiber (or what­ev­er), squeeze with the pli­ers, and slide the arm off. Geez. Here’s a clos­er look at the offend­ing mech­a­nism. Now that it’s been done once, it is much eas­i­er to do for the future.

On either side of the glove com­part­ment are nice, use­ful tabs. Just depress on both sides and pull the glove com­part­ment out.

The rec­tan­gu­lar box is what we’re look­ing for. To the left and the right are 2 tabs that hold the lid in place over the hous­ing open­ing. Push them apart to free the tabs being held there. Nor­mal­ly, you would just pull the two tabs on top, and it would come out, but the plas­tic is extreme­ly stiff hav­ing nev­er been used, so be care­ful not to break the pieces (I did that in my old car D:) and pull the cov­er down.

Ta da!

Here is a side by side of the new and old. Mim­ic the direc­tion of the air­flow on the orig­i­nal fil­ter. Ford has the labeled on the plas­tic for you, also.

Mhmm. It was time.

From here on out, just go back­wards to replace every­thing: close the fil­ter lid, hook the hinges into their slots, push the glove com­part­ment up until the tabs lock in place, and then replace the stop arm.

Make sure those hinges are placed in prop­er­ly!

The one impor­tant thing to remem­ber is to make sure that the 3 hinges are prop­er­ly seat­ed. If they’re not, then the com­part­ment won’t close smooth­ly. One of mine weren’t clicked in right and clos­ing the com­part­ment was dif­fi­cult and rough.

You are DONE and breath­ing much clean­er air.

DIY: Toilet Fill Valve Seal Repair

updat­ed 8/7/2022

What: Kohler High­line Clas­sic K‑11499–0 (bought and installed May 2017) toi­let fill valve (Flu­id­mas­ter Uni­ver­sal 400A OE part — came with toi­let) issues

Prob­lem: Months of slow-fill­ing toi­let along with a loud squeal noise when float rais­es with water lev­el. It final­ly quit fill­ing alto­geth­er.

When: August 2022

Sup­plies: 242 Toi­let Replace­ment Seal, a cup

Cost: Around $4 and gas

Time: 10 min­utes

Dif­fi­cul­ty: Easy

Process

1. Turn off the water sup­ply (bath­room got a nice clean­ing after this)

2. Grab the fill valve cap and twist left to unseat it (you might have to grab the stem of the whole valve to pre­vent the entire valve from spin­ning. Here’s a video)

3. Now to unhook the cap from the float. Give it a nice, care­ful tug, being aware that it is plas­tic.

4. Exam­ine the fill valve seal for debris. Remove it care­ful­ly and inspect under­neath for debris. Clean it out. In my case, there was debris under­neath that was caus­ing a block­age and there­fore no water. It must have been there for a while and then final­ly occlud­ed the open­ing.

5. Sim­i­lar­ly, inspect the cap-less top of the fill valve for debris.

Looks clear to me! But just in case…

6. Now that every­thing is off, let’s go ahead and flush the fill valve itself. Appar­ent­ly, over the years pieces of Teflon tape, or min­er­als or oth­er debris can accu­mu­late in the valve. Flu­id­mas­ter sets the lifes­pan of a fill valve at around 7 years (mine is about 5 years old). SO, grab a cup and place it upside-down over the fill valve.

7. Turn on the water sup­ply and flush for about 10–15 sec­onds (accord­ing to Flu­id­mas­ter)

8. At this point, you would replace every­thing and test it out. It was no longer fill­ing slow­ly after the debris was removed, so BOOM, solved. BUT…the float mech­a­nism no longer worked…as in, the fill valve kept fill­ing with­out stop­ping. Oh, great. I bust­ed it some­how. Removed every­thing again and found that the orig­i­nal seal looked kind of chewed up around the float pin.

9. Turned the water sup­ply back off, and ran out to the store to grab a 242 Toi­let Fill Valve Seal (and oth­er stuff just in case, so I would­n’t have to run out again, but did­n’t need them in the end)

10. Had remove it all again and here is an image of the old seal. If you look at the cen­ter, you can see how rough it looks where I tried to push it in with my fin­ger­nails and prob­a­bly from gen­er­al wear and tear

11. Here’s a side by side of the old seal and the new one

12. Slide the seal onto the cap

13. Now to reassem­ble it all. Line up the cap assem­bly with the float assem­bly stem groove and snap it in

*snap*

14. Place the now-attached cap back on the valve. Remem­ber that you have to turn right to replace it, so place the cap accord­ing­ly so that none of the parts inter­fere with each oth­er

*Let’s twist again! Like we did last sum­mer!*

15. Twist it to the right and, YAY, it’s back on!

Reassem­bled!

16. MOMENT OF TRUTH. Turn on the water sup­ply. You should imme­di­ate­ly hear the water fill­ing up. Now lift up on the float mech­a­nism. If the tank quits fill­ing, you are DONE, and it is REPAIRED! GREAT JOB!

Lift up on the float and BOOM! Hal­lelu­jah!