DIY: Cutting My Own Hair Super Short with Updates

writ­ten 12/29/25, updat­ed 6/8/26

What

DIY hair­cut. I like super short hair

Why

Sav­ing mon­ey and time, get­ting the cut I want not what the hair per­son thinks

Time & Effort

Time: 1–1.5 hours

Effort: Easy-Mod­er­ate

Direc­to­ry

Click to Nav­i­gate!

Materials & Cost

Bought Supplies

Wahl Prof Mag­ic Clip V9000 Cord­ed

The 360 Mir­ror

Alli­ga­tor Hair Clips

Hair Styling Scis­sors

Total

$82.99

$39.99

$5.99

$11.99

$140.96

Owned Supplies

Hair Cut­ting Cape

Comb (clip­pers come with one)

Water Spray Bot­tle

Broom and/or Vac­u­um Clean­er

Process

What fol­lows is the orig­i­nal, very first hair­cut I did myself Decem­ber 2025 where I was real­ly ner­vous. Skip to the bot­tom for Notes and details on my sub­se­quent cuts

Prepping

  • Gath­er sup­plies and clear any rugs or any­thing else in the cut­ting area. Lit­tle hairs will fly! Keep every­thing with­in easy reach
  • Secure the cape
  • Fol­low man­u­fac­tur­er’s instruc­tions on oil­ing the clip­per. The thing I read before­hand said to put one drop on either side of the blades and then back
  • Grab the spray bot­tle and comb, then mist the hair so that it’s mild­ly damp but not sop­ping wet

I could­n’t find a spray bot­tle, so I used a wet comb and that does not work very well

  • Then comb straight so that all the hair lays flat
My hair is at least 2 inch­es too long
  • Know the game­plan. Appar­ent­ly, the rule of thumb for close cuts is to do the sides then the back first. Because I want­ed to keep the top a bit longer, I need­ed to alli­ga­tor clip the hair there out of the way so I could deal with it lat­er

The prob­lem with such large clips is that they get in the way of the clip­per

Cutting!!

  • Start­ing time!! The rec­om­men­da­tion is to use the clip­per guards and to go more con­ser­v­a­tive first. You can take away hair but not put it back.

To start, I used a #4 guard to address the sides. The tech­nique is cut straight into the air and to NOT fol­low the curve of the head just yet.

Deep Breath! LET’S DO THIS!

Right Side

Before
After

Hmm… Did­n’t wet the hair enough, so it was real­ly dif­fi­cult to cut the strands

Left Side

Before
After

Wet it more this time and it was eas­i­er. The only hard part was using my left hand instead of my right

  • Now for the trim­mer! Using the trim­mer and/or the cor­ner edge of the clip­per (no guard), fold the ear and trim around the con­tour

This trim­mer was TERRIBLE. The on/off switch was lit­er­al­ly impos­si­ble to flip and for the num­ber of times you need to do that, it was super obnox­ious and hurt my fin­gers. That’s what hap­pens when I decide to go cheap

left
right

Inter­est­ing­ly, my hair is dif­fer­ent on both sides. In the end, I knew I’d need the help of scis­sors to pol­ish it off

  • Now for the back. I stuck with the #4 guard to take the bulk off. Uti­liz­ing the side mir­rors by turn­ing either left or right to see more (you have to use the mir­ror in the mir­ror effect), I was able to take off the bulk of the length. The straight back, I used a two-hand­ed motion sim­i­lar to that dumb­bell exer­cise
Before
After
  • Now there are those lit­tle strands in the back. I decid­ed to use the trim­mer again. This part was super hard because I could­n’t see any­thing and no amount of phone or mir­ror could help me. In the end, I just used the comb as a straight edge. I knew I’d want anoth­er per­son to help me out lat­er.

They sell these back of head guides that you can secure around your fore­head

  • And for the riski­est part: Fine tun­ing. With the bulk gone, it was time to do detail work. If the length was good for a trim, I would’ve been fine, but I did­n’t want that. I want short­er!

Stu­pid­ly, I went straight from the #4 to a #1 for what­ev­er dumb rea­son. If I was sea­soned, it’d be fine, but I was brand new to this!! So, of course, I made a mis­take.

Whoops. Too much, too fast

  • After laugh­ing ner­vous­ly, I decid­ed to fix it. Slow­ly this time. I went from a #3, to a #2, then a #1. Each guard num­ber I went all over with until I got used to wield­ing the clip­per.

I actu­al­ly was­n’t intend­ing to ever go back to the #1, but I did in the end because it was the only way to get the bot­tom of the back to hug the skin and look more nat­ur­al.

Help­ful: Just because you use a guard does­n’t mean you’re lim­it­ed to it. On the side of the clip­per is a lever that fur­ther con­trols the length. So, using a #3 plus the lever effec­tive­ly gives you #3.1 — 3.9. This allows more con­trol to fine tune and is how I end­ed up fix­ing the hair and feel­ing com­fort­able with the rest of the fine-tun­ing process. It ends up being a tri­al-and-error/prac­tice thing.

  • After fix­ing every­thing, I felt much bet­ter and things were look­ing good as a whole. Now for the mid-tier! I swapped to the #6 to do the curve of my head, then the #4, and even­tu­al­ly #3 (only a lit­tle)
  • For the oth­er side of my head, I removed the clips, combed, then added the clips the oth­er way this time. Time to cut!
Before
After
  • More fine tun­ing all the way around. This is where I final­ly fig­ured out how to prop­er­ly use the tri-fold mir­ror.

The female head has a much more pro­nounced dip/roundness in the back than a typ­i­cal male head, so I had to take that into account

Hmm. I missed some on the right side
  • Hap­py with the sides and back, nor­mal­ly, this is where Hair Scis­sors come into play. Alas, I did NOT have any. I also knew bet­ter than to use reg­u­lar scis­sors or the clip­pers. I would have thinned and lay­ered the top using a 2‑finger hold and cut method, then fine-tuned the con­tours of the ears.

And DONE!

Go clean up and take a show­er!

Before and After Pictures

Notes:

1st Cut — 12/27/25

Very free­ing and so much eas­i­er than I thought it would be! A few hic­cups in the learn­ing process, but over­all, I can see myself doing this for years to come. The tri-fold mir­ror was instru­men­tal in all of this! I would high­ly rec­om­mend it! I’m already imag­in­ing oth­er styles I can try in the future! It’s nice to not only save mon­ey, but do this at my own leisure, in my own house!

  • I need­ed some­one else’s help for the scis­sor-work and con­tour­ing of the back and ears, so I have yet to try that myself. Should­n’t be too hard. I’ll update when­ev­er I do that in the future.
  • While the longer top style-wise was­n’t too bad look­ing, I can’t staaaaand hair in my face, so it just got annoy­ing
  • If using the large hair clips, make sure to push them way up high or they’ll get in the way of the clip­per
  • Def­i­nite­ly use a spray bot­tle
  • I did­n’t real­ize the back of my head is so bumpy. If the pic­tures look like I chopped to much in some places, it’s actu­al­ly because of my head struc­ture

2nd Cut — 2/21/2026

Dura­tion: 10:30am — 11:14am (45 min­utes)

Cut in the kitchen this time which was much bet­ter and brighter than the bath­room. Messed up AGAIN in the same spot because I for­got to return the clip­per lever to the low­est lev­el which means that, yet again, I need­ed to use the #1 guard to smooth it out. It went much faster than the first time because I not only felt more com­fort­able as a whole, but I prop­er­ly uti­lized the 360 Mir­ror. Vac­u­um clean­er is much eas­i­er than broom and dust­pan. Short­er to start this time around and short­er to end with. Also did not have scis­sors and had help for the final touch­es yet again.

LEFT: Pre-cut; CENTER: Messed up in the low­er cor­ner, so had to cut on guard #1 to smooth it out; RIGHT: Post-cut (you can see how the top is very long)

3rd Cut — 4/12/2026

Dura­tion: 11:21am — 12:26pm (1 hour 5 min­utes)

Hair was short­er to start with, but longer to end with than pre­vi­ous iter­a­tions (most­ly because I did­n’t mess up as bad­ly). This time employed scis­sors to help, so it took a bit longer to com­plete, but the detail work is bet­ter. Still messed up when try­ing to use the comb + clip­per method to detail towards the top. Looks bad, but not as bad as the bot­tom of the hair­line. It’s real­ly nice to be able to cut when­ev­er I feel like on my own. This time, I’m going to add some more notes to the process now that it’s more stream­lined.

  • Wet and comb through­out the process
  • Pin hair as desired
  • Choose a Guard - Used #3 with the clip­per lev­el on the short­est set­ting
  • Clip the sides and the back using the 360 mir­ror — Use the mid­dle to start, then the mir­ror-in-the-mir­ror images (i.e. When cut­ting the right side, look to the left; When cut­ting the left side, look to the right). Use an under­hand hold and cut upwards.
Under­hand hold for the back
Mir­ror-in-mir­ror image with scis­sors
  • Ear and Back Detail — Wet, comb, then use scis­sors and/or mini clip­pers. BE CAREFUL!! This is the eas­i­est place to mess up!
  • Short­en and Fade as desired. Used #2 guard ON THE LONGEST CLIPPER LENGTH first, then at half lever for the mid­dle, and then the short­est on the low­est por­tion of the head. Use a scoop­ing motion with the clip­per to pre­vent sharp edges
  • Detail Time — I removed 2 hair clips and then went in small incre­ments with the clip­per lev­el. Be care­ful if you’re try­ing to use the comb as a guard to help. That’s where I messed up this time… heh… heh… Sigh.
  • Scis­sor Work — First time using scis­sors. I read some­where that the best way to cut bangs is to use the comb as a guide and do ver­ti­cal snips to make it look more nat­ur­al. I’m not going for bangs here, but I fig­ured it worked sim­i­lar­ly?
  • Final Touch­es — Look all around for even­ness. I ran the guard­ed clip­per around again to make sure all the areas were cut and found that I’d missed the upper back cor­ners near the top of my head

Com­plete!

Pre-cut
Post-cut

4th Cut — 6/7/2026

Dura­tion: 12:05 — 12:52pm (47 min­utes total)

I was amazed at how long my hair got in such a short time, but look­ing back, this is actu­al­ly a longer inter­val than usu­al. Appar­ent­ly, with hair this short, I need to cut it every 1.5 months. This was clos­er to 2 months. Used the notes from the last appt to help and, over­all, I felt extreme­ly con­fi­dent now that I’ve done it sev­er­al times. I think next time I’ll just start with the #2 guard… Using #3 first helps cut down on bulk so it does­n’t over­whelm the clip­per, but I’ll try to start with it next time. This ses­sion, I did­n’t even both­er using the mini clip­per at all and just used the scis­sors. It is high­ly rec­om­mend­ed and I took it away from the orig­i­nal post. It’s safer, more detailed, and I even test­ed out lay­er­ing a lit­tle. Most­ly hap­py. Still need­ed help to touch up lat­er because the hairs around the ears are too hard to get, that back and top of my head are hard to reach, and espe­cial­ly because I’m right-hand­ed. A lit­tle ner­vous about lay­er­ing. Will do more of it next time. Much short­er time dura­tion than last time! Because the detail work is much bet­ter, I was very hap­py with the out­come and with­out major mis­takes, I don’t have to wear a hat when I go out!

Left: Before; Right: After (I can see lit­tle fly aways in the very top back, but the top has much less bulk than pri­or ses­sions)

DIY: Portable Cooling Unit

writ­ten 7/14/25; updat­ed 7/14/25

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What

Make your own air con­di­tion­er that’s not real­ly air con­di­tion­ing. This device made from house­hold items helps blow cold air from water chilled by ice. It is high­ly cus­tomiz­able. Best for small spaces.

Why

The use case for this assem­bly can be var­ied. Exam­ples: the top of my town­house that nev­er gets A/C prop­er­ly, pic­nics, tail­gat­ing, my work­place when­ev­er it los­es A/C (at least once a year), etc.

Time and Effort

Time: 2–3 hours

Effort: Easy-Mod­er­ate

Materials and Cost

Mate­ri­als

Sub­mersible Pump USB, 3W/50gph

Arc­tic Zone Titan Cool­er, 16-can

Radi­a­tor w/ Fan, 120mm/DC12V/12pipe

Tub­ing, 3/8″-1/2″ (0.3″-05″; 8–12mm)

Dual 3 or 4‑pin USB Adapter, 12V

4in Dust Hose, sculptable/flexible

4in Bell Noz­zle Dust Col­lec­tion Fit­ting

USB Hub with Pow­er Switch­es, 2.5A/5V

Cost

$6.99

$27.99 (sale)

$20.99

Free (~$6)

$8.99

$15.45

$19.98

$19.99

TOTAL: $120.39 ($126.39)

Owned Sup­plies

Sharpie

Dremel w/Cutting Bit

Dri­ver w/Drill Bit

Screws, Nuts, Wash­ers

Util­i­ty Knife

Ruler/Square

Safe­ty Glass­es

Option­al — the assem­bly is high­ly cus­tomiz­able

  • 120mm Slim Case Fan attached to oth­er side of radi­a­tor for push/pull method (~$10)
  • Replace the 120mm Radi­a­tor w/Fan with a 240mm Radi­a­tor w/Fan ($36.99), Slim Case Fan 3‑pack w/PWM shar­ing ($28.99)
  • Add anoth­er Fan to the end of the Flex Hose for even more pulling pow­er (~$10-$30), by uti­liz­ing a 3D print­er or buy­ing a Duct Col­lec­tor Flange (~$10)
  • If you don’t need the on/off switch­es for pow­er, then just a dual port USB A pow­er block is fine (~$10)
  • You can also get a USB split­ter plus an in-line USB with on/off switch all con­nect­ed to a 1‑port wall block, but that would mean many adapters and could com­pro­mise pow­er deliv­ery if not care­ful
  • Use an insu­lat­ing tape around the base of the Bell Attach­ment

Schematics

This is the orig­i­nal schemat­ic I drew. It has dif­fer­ent com­po­nents I did­n’t end up using like wing nuts, a divert­er tray at the bot­tom, and an added plas­tic sheet/bracket for fas­ten­ing the hose flange on top to.

Process

Planning and Measurements

  • After gath­er­ing sup­plies, try them out to see if they will fit, the best ori­en­ta­tion, etc. Adjust as nec­es­sary
  • Cut Hoses to fit the Sub­mersible Pump and Radi­a­tor w/Fan into reser­voir (orange lin­er buck­et)
  • Decide if you want to use the push or pull method (or both) for the radi­a­tor, and swap the fan to the desired side

Note: Cool­er fans always have a direc­tion of flow and spin indi­ca­tor some­where on there

  • Take mea­sure­ments and mark them with the Sharpie
Notch­es for cords

Cutting

  • As nerve-wrack­ing as it can be, you just got­ta do it to get it done
  • Start with the notch­es in the plas­tic. I used a Dremel with a cut­ting wheel and it was quite sim­ple. *Don’t for­get safe­ty glass­es when cut­ting plas­tic!!*
Dremels make the plas­tic melt while cut­ting
It’s use­ful for keep­ing things most­ly smooth
  • Now for the cool­er. I decid­ed to trace the inside of the Bell Noz­zle Attach­ment to open up as much space as pos­si­ble for the air move­ment (plan­ning on lat­er using a 240mm instead of just the 120mm). Using the util­i­ty knife, I cut through the 3 lay­ers of insu­lat­ing mate­r­i­al
  • Ini­tial­ly, I’d planned on just set­ting the Bell Attach­ment on top of the cool­er, so next, I drilled holes for the 4 attach­ment points through insu­lat­ing mate­r­i­al and the orange plas­tic (need­ed to stand on a stool to do this on the work­bench) using a 1⁄4″ bit
  • Then, I traced the open­ing on the plas­tic with a Sharpie because now I can see the line through the back­side. It’s time to cut the open­ing! Here, you have options. I think the eas­i­est method is to run the util­i­ty knife mul­ti­ple times around the shape, cut­ting deep­er each time, then clean up with the Dremel (sand­ing bit) after­wards (unless you have oth­er fun tools in your arse­nal). Instead, I decid­ed to get fan­cy and use avi­a­tor snips (tin snips) because they pret­ty much cut every­thing. The prob­lem is that you have to know how to use them oth­er­wise you mess up like I did. Thank­ful­ly, it was­n’t a huge deal. It real­ly does­n’t have to be gor­geous, either.
Right side snips. Not sure where my left one is…
Oops. Tried to the the cen­ter snips

Securement

  • Here, you have to decide how you want to mount the Bell Attach­ment: Under the insu­la­tion? Above? And, even, if you want to secure it on top of the cool­er fab­ric, or under­neath it, just on the orange plas­tic.
Under?
Above?
  • I hap­pen to have a huge box of loose screws orga­nized by size, and some ran­dom wash­ers and nuts, so I chose some 1⁄4″ (M6) screws
  • Ini­tial­ly, I used the 1″ screws, wash­ers, and nuts to go all the way through.
  • In the end, I changed my mind used the 1⁄2″ length screws and attached it all under­neath the cool­er fab­ric because the 1″ screws were too long even through the fab­ric and would impede the fan/radiator place­ment inside

Final Assembly and Testing

Time to put it all togeth­er!

  • First up, replace the orange lin­er buck­et, suc­tion the Sub­mersible Pump to the bot­tom, and replace the tray with the Pump’s cord through the notch
  • Fit the water tubes down into the reser­voir through the tray’s con­ve­nient holes (bonus, this sta­bi­lizes the radiator/fan unit) and attach to the Pump
  • Attach all Pow­er Cords and Adapters togeth­er
  • Attach the Flex­i­ble Hose to the Bell Attach­ment

Time to Test!

  • Move the tray aside a lit­tle, and fill ‘er up with water (make sure it’s always past the top of the Pump… You should nev­er run those dry!) and ice packs. I hap­pened to use ice because I ran out of ice packs test­ing out the first iter­a­tion of this assem­bly (see end of post if inter­est­ed)
  • Plug it all in
Fill­ing up!
Water is drain­ing into the reser­voir just like it’s sup­posed to!
  • DONE! Give it some time to start cool­ing
Hel­lo!!

Result

07/14/25: The pow­er real­ly isn’t as strong as I’d like it to be. End­ed up try­ing all kinds of fans (hap­pened to have) to try and boost pow­er. More mon­ey equals more pow­er, but also more noise… With that said, hav­ing this when it’s about 100F with no oth­er air source, would be a God­send.

The cool­er is insane­ly portable, and every­thing about this cool­er by Arc­tic Zone is per­fect for this appli­ca­tion from the tray with con­ve­nient holes to the zip­per-less clo­sure, to the plas­tic lin­er tray which makes it ful­ly water­proof, to just how nice it looks. It even comes in a 48-Can size!! Tech­ni­cal­ly, you can just scoot the tray aside and car­ry drinks in the reser­voir, too. Even food if you have space in the tray. I’m sure you can 3D print any man­ner of dividers if you’re not using the whole tray for fans. The largest sized cool­er could real­ly have dual fan and vent set­up.

Just store the cords and block in the pock­ets when not using
Lift out and pour water. Easy peasey.

Here is a hose-end fan attached with a 3D print­ed 4″ adapter

When I have more monies, I will try the 240mm Radi­a­tor with push and pull fans, then update here.

Notes

  • Your choice on how you want to ori­ent the fan on the radi­a­tor. You can unscrew and re-screw to the oth­er side, or even add anoth­er fan for a push/pull method instead of just push or pull
  • Many soft-sided cool­ers are NOT actu­al­ly water­proof! Be care­ful!
  • Sub­mersible pumps are eas­i­ly clogged. You do not need a pow­er­ful one. A weak­er one will do just fine
  • Ice packs are prefer­able to actu­al ice, though you can use ice itself, too. The rea­son being tiny ice pieces can enter the pump and poten­tial­ly dam­age the entire sys­tem
  • Very large chunks of ice do not melt eas­i­ly or quick­ly, and can pro­vide longer cool­ing than small pieces
  • This can also be done in a hard­case cool­er. I chose this cool­er because drilling through plas­tic of a hard cool­er would like­ly neces­si­tate some sort of seal­ing to retain the insu­lat­ing abil­i­ties of the cool­er. Like, spray foam or insu­lat­ing tape?

Test Run

If you’re inter­est­ed, I ini­tial­ly test­ed it all out on a small cooler/lunch bag that was free. I’d drawn schemat­ics for 2 dif­fer­ent setups includ­ing the small­er set­up. The result was less than ide­al:

  • The fan and radi­a­tor were much too large for the front pock­et that I’d planned on try­ing
  • Pok­ing holes through the bag to the reser­voir of water is not idea for leak­age rea­sons, yet run­ning the hoses around the out­side along­side the pow­er cords made for a very ugly set­up and high chance for leak­ing, not to men­tion reduced water-cool­ing capa­bil­i­ties
    • The cooler/lunch box end­ed up leak­ing because it’s not actu­al­ly water­proof

Here are some pic­tures!

Orig­i­nal Schemat­ic
Just need a util­i­ty knife to score and break
Mount­ed!
Pump goes in, but has no hard sur­face to suc­tion to
Too tight a fit, so the hoses have to stick up and out
Clos­ing it inside the pock­et kinks the hoses
Pump and radi­a­tor work well!
For ref­er­ence, the counter out­side it was 69F
In the end it leaked every­where and was a bust

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