Tag: cold

DIY: Portable Cooling Unit

writ­ten 7/14/25; updat­ed 7/14/25

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What

Make your own air con­di­tion­er that’s not real­ly air con­di­tion­ing. This device made from house­hold items helps blow cold air from water chilled by ice. It is high­ly cus­tomiz­able. Best for small spaces.

Why

The use case for this assem­bly can be var­ied. Exam­ples: the top of my town­house that nev­er gets A/C prop­er­ly, pic­nics, tail­gat­ing, my work­place when­ev­er it los­es A/C (at least once a year), etc.

Time and Effort

Time: 2–3 hours

Effort: Easy-Mod­er­ate

Materials and Cost

Mate­ri­als

Sub­mersible Pump USB, 3W/50gph

Arc­tic Zone Titan Cool­er, 16-can

Radi­a­tor w/ Fan, 120mm/DC12V/12pipe

Tub­ing, 3/8″-1/2″ (0.3″-05″; 8–12mm)

Dual 3 or 4‑pin USB Adapter, 12V

4in Dust Hose, sculptable/flexible

4in Bell Noz­zle Dust Col­lec­tion Fit­ting

USB Hub with Pow­er Switch­es, 2.5A/5V

Cost

$6.99

$27.99 (sale)

$20.99

Free (~$6)

$8.99

$15.45

$19.98

$19.99

TOTAL: $120.39 ($126.39)

Owned Sup­plies

Sharpie

Dremel w/Cutting Bit

Dri­ver w/Drill Bit

Screws, Nuts, Wash­ers

Util­i­ty Knife

Ruler/Square

Safe­ty Glass­es

Option­al — the assem­bly is high­ly cus­tomiz­able

  • 120mm Slim Case Fan attached to oth­er side of radi­a­tor for push/pull method (~$10)
  • Replace the 120mm Radi­a­tor w/Fan with a 240mm Radi­a­tor w/Fan ($36.99), Slim Case Fan 3‑pack w/PWM shar­ing ($28.99)
  • Add anoth­er Fan to the end of the Flex Hose for even more pulling pow­er (~$10-$30), by uti­liz­ing a 3D print­er or buy­ing a Duct Col­lec­tor Flange (~$10)
  • If you don’t need the on/off switch­es for pow­er, then just a dual port USB A pow­er block is fine (~$10)
  • You can also get a USB split­ter plus an in-line USB with on/off switch all con­nect­ed to a 1‑port wall block, but that would mean many adapters and could com­pro­mise pow­er deliv­ery if not care­ful
  • Use an insu­lat­ing tape around the base of the Bell Attach­ment

Schematics

This is the orig­i­nal schemat­ic I drew. It has dif­fer­ent com­po­nents I did­n’t end up using like wing nuts, a divert­er tray at the bot­tom, and an added plas­tic sheet/bracket for fas­ten­ing the hose flange on top to.

Process

Planning and Measurements

  • After gath­er­ing sup­plies, try them out to see if they will fit, the best ori­en­ta­tion, etc. Adjust as nec­es­sary
  • Cut Hoses to fit the Sub­mersible Pump and Radi­a­tor w/Fan into reser­voir (orange lin­er buck­et)
  • Decide if you want to use the push or pull method (or both) for the radi­a­tor, and swap the fan to the desired side

Note: Cool­er fans always have a direc­tion of flow and spin indi­ca­tor some­where on there

  • Take mea­sure­ments and mark them with the Sharpie
Notch­es for cords

Cutting

  • As nerve-wrack­ing as it can be, you just got­ta do it to get it done
  • Start with the notch­es in the plas­tic. I used a Dremel with a cut­ting wheel and it was quite sim­ple. *Don’t for­get safe­ty glass­es when cut­ting plas­tic!!*
Dremels make the plas­tic melt while cut­ting
It’s use­ful for keep­ing things most­ly smooth
  • Now for the cool­er. I decid­ed to trace the inside of the Bell Noz­zle Attach­ment to open up as much space as pos­si­ble for the air move­ment (plan­ning on lat­er using a 240mm instead of just the 120mm). Using the util­i­ty knife, I cut through the 3 lay­ers of insu­lat­ing mate­r­i­al
  • Ini­tial­ly, I’d planned on just set­ting the Bell Attach­ment on top of the cool­er, so next, I drilled holes for the 4 attach­ment points through insu­lat­ing mate­r­i­al and the orange plas­tic (need­ed to stand on a stool to do this on the work­bench) using a 1⁄4″ bit
  • Then, I traced the open­ing on the plas­tic with a Sharpie because now I can see the line through the back­side. It’s time to cut the open­ing! Here, you have options. I think the eas­i­est method is to run the util­i­ty knife mul­ti­ple times around the shape, cut­ting deep­er each time, then clean up with the Dremel (sand­ing bit) after­wards (unless you have oth­er fun tools in your arse­nal). Instead, I decid­ed to get fan­cy and use avi­a­tor snips (tin snips) because they pret­ty much cut every­thing. The prob­lem is that you have to know how to use them oth­er­wise you mess up like I did. Thank­ful­ly, it was­n’t a huge deal. It real­ly does­n’t have to be gor­geous, either.
Right side snips. Not sure where my left one is…
Oops. Tried to the the cen­ter snips

Securement

  • Here, you have to decide how you want to mount the Bell Attach­ment: Under the insu­la­tion? Above? And, even, if you want to secure it on top of the cool­er fab­ric, or under­neath it, just on the orange plas­tic.
Under?
Above?
  • I hap­pen to have a huge box of loose screws orga­nized by size, and some ran­dom wash­ers and nuts, so I chose some 1⁄4″ (M6) screws
  • Ini­tial­ly, I used the 1″ screws, wash­ers, and nuts to go all the way through.
  • In the end, I changed my mind used the 1⁄2″ length screws and attached it all under­neath the cool­er fab­ric because the 1″ screws were too long even through the fab­ric and would impede the fan/radiator place­ment inside

Final Assembly and Testing

Time to put it all togeth­er!

  • First up, replace the orange lin­er buck­et, suc­tion the Sub­mersible Pump to the bot­tom, and replace the tray with the Pump’s cord through the notch
  • Fit the water tubes down into the reser­voir through the tray’s con­ve­nient holes (bonus, this sta­bi­lizes the radiator/fan unit) and attach to the Pump
  • Attach all Pow­er Cords and Adapters togeth­er
  • Attach the Flex­i­ble Hose to the Bell Attach­ment

Time to Test!

  • Move the tray aside a lit­tle, and fill ‘er up with water (make sure it’s always past the top of the Pump… You should nev­er run those dry!) and ice packs. I hap­pened to use ice because I ran out of ice packs test­ing out the first iter­a­tion of this assem­bly (see end of post if inter­est­ed)
  • Plug it all in
Fill­ing up!
Water is drain­ing into the reser­voir just like it’s sup­posed to!
  • DONE! Give it some time to start cool­ing
Hel­lo!!

Result

07/14/25: The pow­er real­ly isn’t as strong as I’d like it to be. End­ed up try­ing all kinds of fans (hap­pened to have) to try and boost pow­er. More mon­ey equals more pow­er, but also more noise… With that said, hav­ing this when it’s about 100F with no oth­er air source, would be a God­send.

The cool­er is insane­ly portable, and every­thing about this cool­er by Arc­tic Zone is per­fect for this appli­ca­tion from the tray with con­ve­nient holes to the zip­per-less clo­sure, to the plas­tic lin­er tray which makes it ful­ly water­proof, to just how nice it looks. It even comes in a 48-Can size!! Tech­ni­cal­ly, you can just scoot the tray aside and car­ry drinks in the reser­voir, too. Even food if you have space in the tray. I’m sure you can 3D print any man­ner of dividers if you’re not using the whole tray for fans. The largest sized cool­er could real­ly have dual fan and vent set­up.

Just store the cords and block in the pock­ets when not using
Lift out and pour water. Easy peasey.

Here is a hose-end fan attached with a 3D print­ed 4″ adapter

When I have more monies, I will try the 240mm Radi­a­tor with push and pull fans, then update here.

Notes

  • Your choice on how you want to ori­ent the fan on the radi­a­tor. You can unscrew and re-screw to the oth­er side, or even add anoth­er fan for a push/pull method instead of just push or pull
  • Many soft-sided cool­ers are NOT actu­al­ly water­proof! Be care­ful!
  • Sub­mersible pumps are eas­i­ly clogged. You do not need a pow­er­ful one. A weak­er one will do just fine
  • Ice packs are prefer­able to actu­al ice, though you can use ice itself, too. The rea­son being tiny ice pieces can enter the pump and poten­tial­ly dam­age the entire sys­tem
  • Very large chunks of ice do not melt eas­i­ly or quick­ly, and can pro­vide longer cool­ing than small pieces
  • This can also be done in a hard­case cool­er. I chose this cool­er because drilling through plas­tic of a hard cool­er would like­ly neces­si­tate some sort of seal­ing to retain the insu­lat­ing abil­i­ties of the cool­er. Like, spray foam or insu­lat­ing tape?

Test Run

If you’re inter­est­ed, I ini­tial­ly test­ed it all out on a small cooler/lunch bag that was free. I’d drawn schemat­ics for 2 dif­fer­ent setups includ­ing the small­er set­up. The result was less than ide­al:

  • The fan and radi­a­tor were much too large for the front pock­et that I’d planned on try­ing
  • Pok­ing holes through the bag to the reser­voir of water is not idea for leak­age rea­sons, yet run­ning the hoses around the out­side along­side the pow­er cords made for a very ugly set­up and high chance for leak­ing, not to men­tion reduced water-cool­ing capa­bil­i­ties
    • The cooler/lunch box end­ed up leak­ing because it’s not actu­al­ly water­proof

Here are some pic­tures!

Orig­i­nal Schemat­ic
Just need a util­i­ty knife to score and break
Mount­ed!
Pump goes in, but has no hard sur­face to suc­tion to
Too tight a fit, so the hoses have to stick up and out
Clos­ing it inside the pock­et kinks the hoses
Pump and radi­a­tor work well!
For ref­er­ence, the counter out­side it was 69F
In the end it leaked every­where and was a bust

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DIY: PVC and Hardware Cloth Garden Plant Enclosure + Winter Cover

writ­ten 8/5/2024, updat­ed 9/6/2025

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Overview

What

Tem­po­rary/dis­as­sem­bly-pos­si­ble enclo­sure for patio and deck plants using PVC pipe and hard­ware cloth, fea­tur­ing doors

Why

Thiev­ing squir­rels, birds, and deer yet still allow­ing pol­li­na­tors, air, sun, and rain through

Time and Effort

Time: Sev­er­al hours to 1 day (maybe more)

Dif­fi­cul­ty: Mod­er­ate (depends on your equip­ment and mate­r­i­al sit­u­a­tion)

This is what start­ed it all. My beau­ti­ful can­taloupe brazen­ly stolen and eat­en right in front of my eyes by a crafty yet cute squir­rel

Materials and Cost

All mate­ri­als bought from Ama­zon and Home Depot

Mate­r­i­al

1″ 4ft PVC Pipe

1″ 6ft PVC Pipe

16-gauge 2′ x 50′ Hard­ware Cloth Roll

200′ 16-gauge Gal­va­nized Steel Wire

1″ PVC Hinges

1″ 90 Degree Elbow Fit­ting

1″ 3‑Way Fit­ting

1″ Tee Fit­ting

Cab­i­net Hard­ware Pulls

Quan­ti­ty

12 pipes

5 pipes

31ft

0.5 Roll

4 Hinges

8 Fit­tings

8 Fit­tings

2 Fit­tings

2 Pulls

TOTAL

Use Price

$80.40

$43.99

$24.80

$3.97

$36.68

$11.84

$26.00

$3.94

$4.38

$236.00

Owned Sup­plies:

Nee­dle Nose Pli­ers

Lines­man­’s Pli­ers

Diag­o­nal Cut­ting Pli­ers

Ratch­et­ing PVC Cut­ter

Sharpie

Mea­sur­ing Tape

Dig­i­tal Calipers

Rub­ber Mal­let

Bits/Driver

Screw Gauge

Planning and Schematics

Note: Draw­ings not to scale

Dimen­sions (L x W x H)

Out­er Dimen­sions: 45″ x 22″ x 53″

Door Dimen­sions: 20.5″ x 49″

Fit­ting Dimen­sions

3‑Way (For­mu­fit brand — 8 qty)

1¼ ” + 1⅜” = 2⅝” length

1.25in + 1.375in = 2.625in

90 Degree (Char­lotte Pipe brand — 8 qty)

1½” + 1⅛” = 2⅝”

1.5in + 1.125in = 2.625in

Tee (Char­lotte Pipe brand — 2 qty)

⅞” + 1⅜” + ⅞” = 3⅛”

0.875in + 1.375in + 0.875in = 3.125in

Pipe Lengths

Remem­ber that the ends of the pipes will fit into the fit­tings. All mea­sure­ments are approx­i­mate. Actu­al item dimen­sions may vary

Out­er Frame

42″ pipe (4 qty) — Length

19″ pipe (4 qty) — Width

50″ pipe (5 qty) — Height

Doors

17.5“pipe (4 qty) — Width

46.5″ pipe (4 qty) — Height

Over­all Weight

1 in, 4 ft PVC pipe = 1.4lbs

Over­all Weight of Enclo­sure: ~37lbs

Author’s Note

From start to fin­ish, con­cep­tion to assem­bly, this took a total of 3 days of time. Not count­ing wait­ing for parts, choos­ing parts, etc. The idea start­ed way back in 2022 when I was hav­ing issues with squir­rels steal­ing my toma­toes. I dreamed up and drew up plans, even going as far as to buy­ing much of the mate­ri­als to do it (orig­i­nal­ly out of wood and com­pos­ite wood). How­ev­er, the squir­rels quit steal­ing my stuff until this year when my veg­eta­bles and fruit dis­ap­peared one by one. The final straw was the baby can­taloupe! WARTIME. Since it would be placed on the deck instead of the ground like the orig­i­nal plans intend­ed, I need­ed a less weighty option and there­fore chose PVC pipe. Armed with the orig­i­nal plans, I altered them. You can plan all you’d like, but doing is com­plete­ly dif­fer­ent! So start­ed the 3 day-total-time jour­ney (real­ly, it took about a week wait­ing for all the pieces). Many, many cal­cu­la­tions, mis­cal­cu­la­tions, frus­tra­tions, and even blood shed­ding lat­er, I’ve — at this writ­ing — most­ly com­plet­ed the project. Just a few minor tweaks and a test run before final­iz­ing the hard­ware.

Over­ar­ch­ing Ques­tion: Does it actu­al­ly work???

As of August 2025: YES, IT WORKS suc­cess­ful­ly against thiev­ing squir­rels! They tried, hard with no suc­cess! (see Notes sec­tion for more)

Process

Gathering Supplies and Equipment

Need­ed: Han­dles, PVC pipe, Ratch­et­ing pipe cut­ter, PVC fit­tings, hinges

Calculating, Measuring, Cutting, Assembling the Frame

Eas­i­ly the most time-con­sum­ing part. Using the spe­cial­ized PVC cut­ter and also a dig­i­tal caliper saved a lot of time. Just set­ting up the frame is easy. The hard part is fit­ting the doors prop­er­ly with­out cre­at­ing too much of a gap (try­ing to pre­vent crit­ter entry after all) around the door and frame while remem­ber­ing that the fit­tings add more length to each side (cal­cu­la­tions are done for you already in the schemat­ics above). On top of that, there’s the con­sid­er­a­tion of hard­ware cloth size to make as the hard­ware cloth is best wrap­ping around the pipe. If this was wood, it would be eas­i­er to just cre­ate a remov­able frame around the out­side of the cloth. Lots of re-mea­sur­ing and re-cut­ting until I got it right (or close enough).

Use a rub­ber mal­let to make sure the pieces are snug in the fit­tings

Hinges and Handles

This was more com­pli­cat­ed than it need­ed to be. Hard­ware includ­ed with the (unthread­ed) cheapo Han­dles are just too short to span the 1 in width of the PVC pipe. With­out buy­ing more or hav­ing to run out to a store, I delved into my giant box of ran­dom screws. Thank­ful­ly, I man­aged to find 4 that were both long enough and the right size (screw and thread gauges are use­ful). The Hinges snapped eas­i­ly onto the PVC and most­ly stay in place. And no won­der they stay in, because it gouges the plas­tic like no oth­er if you remove and slide them around, so make sure you’ve mea­sured where you want them first.

WARNING: Fas­ten any hinges before fas­ten­ing han­dles so that the han­dles are ori­ent­ed prop­er­ly, or at least mark loca­tions well. Because I wait­ed a year, my han­dles are now in a wonky ori­en­ta­tion

May 2025 — Hinge Per­ma­nence

Final­ly decid­ed to screw in the hinges. I was way too lazy to take the entire cab­i­net apart for the win­ter, but it end­ed up endur­ing the win­ter just fine

Used an 11⁄64″ bit, lined up the hinges on the pipe, and went for it. End­ed up using ran­dom screws that I hap­pened to have, so they’re all mis­matched and end­ed up rust­ing over the sum­mer

Attaching the Hardware Cloth

This is 16-gauge hard­ware cloth which is hard to find in stores (at least where I am). It’s big enough to allow pol­li­na­tors, water, and air into the enclo­sure, but small enough to thwart rodent and avian rob­bers. This was the lim­it­ing fac­tor for size of the enclo­sure as the cloth I used was only 2ft wide (they sell them larg­er). And no, chick­en wire is not rec­om­mend­ed. Not only are the holes too large, but the wire is weak. Also, to note, because this enclo­sure sits on the deck, there is no need for bot­tom cov­er­age. If I were to use the wood­en schemat­ics made to sit on the ground, then it would be ful­ly enclosed by wood, or extra cloth would need to be sunk into the ground (1–2 ft deep) to deter dig­gers.

The exceed­ing­ly time-con­sum­ing and phys­i­cal­ly painful part of this was the issue of how to attach hard­ware cloth to PVC. With­out spend­ing a for­tune, I decid­ed on a roll of gen­er­al-pur­pose gal­va­nized steel wire and some pli­ers. How­ev­er, giv­en how long it took to secure every­thing (5 hours! In the bak­ing sun and even through a short down­pour), I’ve been think­ing of a bet­ter attach­ment method (See NOTES sec­tion)

Twisty-ties from let­tuce are nice and long
Nav­i­gat­ing cor­ners
Cut to bend
Over­lap­ping pieces
Tem­po­rary twisty ties to hold two ver­ti­cal pieces of hard­ware cloth togeth­er
Bend­ing these under
3rd lay­er of over­lap (top, back, and side)
Twisting the Galvanized Steel Wire with Pliers

After much tri­al and error, I found that this was the fastest way (at least by hand) to tie off the 16-gauge steel wire (per­haps I should have used some­thing small­er)

Cut
Thread and ori­ent
Grab with line­man’s pli­ers
Twist
Keep twist­ing (be care­ful, though, twist­ing in the same spot too fast and hard will snap it)
Tight

Fun fact: If you feel the met­al after twist­ing, it’ll feel real­ly hot

Grab some nee­dle nose pli­ers and bend it away from pok­ing peo­ple
Safer!

Keep Going Until Completion

What’s annoy­ing is that tying off the hard­ware cloth with wire will cause ran­dom pock­ets where it bows out. Just keep on until every­thing is secure. Be aware that the ends of the hard­ware cloth and the steel wire are very sharp!

While the cam­era did­n’t focus on it, cut out pieces to make room for the han­dles
Trim­ming excess of doors
Trim­ming ends to pre­vent scratch­ing of feet or deck
Where doors meet. While does­n’t look ide­al, it works because touch­ing wire acts like a latch to hold them togeth­er
Hinges can still be manip­u­lat­ed since they’re not yet screwed in
Note the spac­ing between the hinge hard­ware. You can open or close the space just by twist­ing the hinge (hence why it has­n’t been secured until the end)

Complete!

Most­ly. No lock­ing hard­ware yet. Com­ing back to this 2 years after the fact, I’m still hold­ing strong with just a ball bungee through the 2 han­dles.

Wel­come home, can­taloupe plant!
3 total bungee cords to hold in place while in test­ing phase. Works real­ly well
Giv­en the space at the bot­tom where some­thing can push its way in, all I did was place a spare paver brick and voila!

Winter Cover

The aim was to have it decon­structable, but I was too lazy, so I decid­ed to use it as sort of a win­ter­ized green­hou­se­ish thing. My region is Zone 7B USDA har­di­ness. Two options (so far) for win­ter­i­za­tion.

Plastic Sheeting

Suit­able for mild win­ters with low dura­tion freez­ing peri­ods, about 20–40F.

Mate­r­i­al

6 mil Green­house Plas­tic Sheet­ing 12′ x 25′ (much too large)

Zip Ties

Pack­ing Tape (for cor­ners)

Pic­tures!

Plas­tic Sheet­ing. I bought entire­ly too much. Prob­a­bly need­ed half of that.
6 mil thick­ness
Zip tie secur­ing and tape for the cor­ners
Cut it off for neat appear­ance
Left open­ings around seams for ven­ti­la­tion and access
Poked a few drainage/vent holes in the top with a screw­driv­er

Plastic Sheeting Winterizing Results

2 months: hard freeze ear­ly Decem­ber for 1–2 weeks, and it’s dipped as low as the teens. So far so good. The plants seem to be doing just fine in there. I have hard neck gar­lic, straw­ber­ry, my blue­ber­ry plant, and onions.

Post-Win­ter: For about 5ish years, the win­ter had been pret­ty mild. 2024–2025 win­ter was nor­mal for this area which trans­lates to peri­ods of very cold and snow. Unfor­tu­nate­ly, that meant that my plas­tic lay­ers did NOT work well enough. If tem­per­a­tures stay around 20–40F, then the plas­tic is fine. If there are hard freezes for extend­ed peri­ods of time, this is not good enough. All of my plants died except the straw­ber­ry which did­n’t mind at all and looks amaz­ing (in a 10-gal­lon fab­ric pot). The blue­ber­ry most­ly died but final­ly start­ed sprout­ing new shoots from the root late June 2025. I was dis­ap­point­ed and will update again this fall when I set up the new ver­sion of this using hard plas­tic walls instead of the sheet­ing. Stay tuned!

Twin-Wall Polycarbonate Sheet

4′ x 2′ x 0.24″ Poly­car­bon­ate Green House Pan­els. They’re a rigid plas­tic sheet­ing that are shat­ter­proof which sup­pos­ed­ly allows them to with­stand severe weath­er, and keeps the green­house both warm in the win­ter and cool in the sum­mer. The work­ing tem­per­a­ture range is: ‑42°F to 248°F (-44°C to 120°C)

Stay-tuned! I will attempt to attach this to the struc­ture and report when I’m suc­cess­ful!

Notes

9/2025 — Added a snap-on door stop made with a 3D print­er to pre­vent the doors from swing­ing too hard inward. Easy to drill and per­ma­nent­ly attach to PVC pipe if desired. Through­out the grow­ing sea­son, had plants inside then enclo­sure that were able to be pol­li­nat­ed no prob­lem. Doors made it easy to access plants. End­ed up mov­ing the corn plants inside after squir­rel rob­bery. The enclo­sure was a tad too short for the corn, so tas­sels extend­ed out, but suc­cess­ful­ly thwart­ed squir­rels that tried hard to get into the corn (they oblit­er­at­ed the corn tas­sels try­ing to pull the entire plant out). Suc­cess!! Just bought the poly­car­bon­ate pan­els for a new attempt at cre­at­ing a cold frame for the win­ter. Still have yet to attach actu­al door latch­es and am still using a ball

Ball Bungee Cord is easy to use
Door stop that just snaps onto the PVC. Can be per­ma­nent­ly fas­tened. This is not at the moment

August 2024 — It’s been almost a month since test phase start­ed, and squir­rels have left it com­plete­ly alone. No evi­dence of rot­ting, so good air­flow, pol­li­na­tors busi­ly doing their thing, vines climb­ing the cloth like a trel­lis… alto­geth­er very hap­py with its func­tion. Even the bungee cords per­form well and are easy to remove. Still have not secured hinges or installed latch­es… and I’m not sure I want to. It would make for a refined prod­uct, but the bungee cords work well.

August 2025 — Squir­rels robbed me of corn, so moved the pot into the enclo­sure. SUCCESS!!! First true test against the rodents. They des­per­ate­ly want­ed the corn, but could not get in. They even tried to pull the corn up through the top by yank­ing on the tas­sels. All that did was rip the tas­sels off the plant. They nev­er got inside! Yay!! It WORKS!!!

If I were to do it again, I would do sev­er­al things:

  • Buy hard­ware cloth that’s wide enough to not need so much over­lap. Like, one that can span from one side, to the back, and to the oth­er side. The top can be sep­a­rate.
  • If using the gal­va­nized steel wire method of attach­ment, then buy a Wire Twister Tool for Drill. Not only would that save tons of time, but phys­i­cal fatigue
  • Mea­sure the place­ment of the hinges before snap­ping them on
  • Paint it green or brown. White is so stark in the gar­den! Or if you have expend­able income, then buy For­mu­fit’s col­ored PVC
  • Fig­ure out a dif­fer­ent way to attach the hard­ware cloth (Ideas are all expen­sive yet remove­able: 2in Rub­ber Cable Clamps, 2 in Binder Rings, 6in Steel Wire Twist Bar­rel Key­chains, etc.)

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