DIY: Cutting My Own Hair Super Short with Updates

writ­ten 12/29/25, updat­ed 6/8/26

What

DIY hair­cut. I like super short hair

Why

Sav­ing mon­ey and time, get­ting the cut I want not what the hair per­son thinks

Time & Effort

Time: 1–1.5 hours

Effort: Easy-Mod­er­ate

Direc­to­ry

Click to Nav­i­gate!

Materials & Cost

Bought Supplies

Wahl Prof Mag­ic Clip V9000 Cord­ed

The 360 Mir­ror

Alli­ga­tor Hair Clips

Hair Styling Scis­sors

Total

$82.99

$39.99

$5.99

$11.99

$140.96

Owned Supplies

Hair Cut­ting Cape

Comb (clip­pers come with one)

Water Spray Bot­tle

Broom and/or Vac­u­um Clean­er

Process

What fol­lows is the orig­i­nal, very first hair­cut I did myself Decem­ber 2025 where I was real­ly ner­vous. Skip to the bot­tom for Notes and details on my sub­se­quent cuts

Prepping

  • Gath­er sup­plies and clear any rugs or any­thing else in the cut­ting area. Lit­tle hairs will fly! Keep every­thing with­in easy reach
  • Secure the cape
  • Fol­low man­u­fac­tur­er’s instruc­tions on oil­ing the clip­per. The thing I read before­hand said to put one drop on either side of the blades and then back
  • Grab the spray bot­tle and comb, then mist the hair so that it’s mild­ly damp but not sop­ping wet

I could­n’t find a spray bot­tle, so I used a wet comb and that does not work very well

  • Then comb straight so that all the hair lays flat
My hair is at least 2 inch­es too long
  • Know the game­plan. Appar­ent­ly, the rule of thumb for close cuts is to do the sides then the back first. Because I want­ed to keep the top a bit longer, I need­ed to alli­ga­tor clip the hair there out of the way so I could deal with it lat­er

The prob­lem with such large clips is that they get in the way of the clip­per

Cutting!!

  • Start­ing time!! The rec­om­men­da­tion is to use the clip­per guards and to go more con­ser­v­a­tive first. You can take away hair but not put it back.

To start, I used a #4 guard to address the sides. The tech­nique is cut straight into the air and to NOT fol­low the curve of the head just yet.

Deep Breath! LET’S DO THIS!

Right Side

Before
After

Hmm… Did­n’t wet the hair enough, so it was real­ly dif­fi­cult to cut the strands

Left Side

Before
After

Wet it more this time and it was eas­i­er. The only hard part was using my left hand instead of my right

  • Now for the trim­mer! Using the trim­mer and/or the cor­ner edge of the clip­per (no guard), fold the ear and trim around the con­tour

This trim­mer was TERRIBLE. The on/off switch was lit­er­al­ly impos­si­ble to flip and for the num­ber of times you need to do that, it was super obnox­ious and hurt my fin­gers. That’s what hap­pens when I decide to go cheap

left
right

Inter­est­ing­ly, my hair is dif­fer­ent on both sides. In the end, I knew I’d need the help of scis­sors to pol­ish it off

  • Now for the back. I stuck with the #4 guard to take the bulk off. Uti­liz­ing the side mir­rors by turn­ing either left or right to see more (you have to use the mir­ror in the mir­ror effect), I was able to take off the bulk of the length. The straight back, I used a two-hand­ed motion sim­i­lar to that dumb­bell exer­cise
Before
After
  • Now there are those lit­tle strands in the back. I decid­ed to use the trim­mer again. This part was super hard because I could­n’t see any­thing and no amount of phone or mir­ror could help me. In the end, I just used the comb as a straight edge. I knew I’d want anoth­er per­son to help me out lat­er.

They sell these back of head guides that you can secure around your fore­head

  • And for the riski­est part: Fine tun­ing. With the bulk gone, it was time to do detail work. If the length was good for a trim, I would’ve been fine, but I did­n’t want that. I want short­er!

Stu­pid­ly, I went straight from the #4 to a #1 for what­ev­er dumb rea­son. If I was sea­soned, it’d be fine, but I was brand new to this!! So, of course, I made a mis­take.

Whoops. Too much, too fast

  • After laugh­ing ner­vous­ly, I decid­ed to fix it. Slow­ly this time. I went from a #3, to a #2, then a #1. Each guard num­ber I went all over with until I got used to wield­ing the clip­per.

I actu­al­ly was­n’t intend­ing to ever go back to the #1, but I did in the end because it was the only way to get the bot­tom of the back to hug the skin and look more nat­ur­al.

Help­ful: Just because you use a guard does­n’t mean you’re lim­it­ed to it. On the side of the clip­per is a lever that fur­ther con­trols the length. So, using a #3 plus the lever effec­tive­ly gives you #3.1 — 3.9. This allows more con­trol to fine tune and is how I end­ed up fix­ing the hair and feel­ing com­fort­able with the rest of the fine-tun­ing process. It ends up being a tri­al-and-error/prac­tice thing.

  • After fix­ing every­thing, I felt much bet­ter and things were look­ing good as a whole. Now for the mid-tier! I swapped to the #6 to do the curve of my head, then the #4, and even­tu­al­ly #3 (only a lit­tle)
  • For the oth­er side of my head, I removed the clips, combed, then added the clips the oth­er way this time. Time to cut!
Before
After
  • More fine tun­ing all the way around. This is where I final­ly fig­ured out how to prop­er­ly use the tri-fold mir­ror.

The female head has a much more pro­nounced dip/roundness in the back than a typ­i­cal male head, so I had to take that into account

Hmm. I missed some on the right side
  • Hap­py with the sides and back, nor­mal­ly, this is where Hair Scis­sors come into play. Alas, I did NOT have any. I also knew bet­ter than to use reg­u­lar scis­sors or the clip­pers. I would have thinned and lay­ered the top using a 2‑finger hold and cut method, then fine-tuned the con­tours of the ears.

And DONE!

Go clean up and take a show­er!

Before and After Pictures

Notes:

1st Cut — 12/27/25

Very free­ing and so much eas­i­er than I thought it would be! A few hic­cups in the learn­ing process, but over­all, I can see myself doing this for years to come. The tri-fold mir­ror was instru­men­tal in all of this! I would high­ly rec­om­mend it! I’m already imag­in­ing oth­er styles I can try in the future! It’s nice to not only save mon­ey, but do this at my own leisure, in my own house!

  • I need­ed some­one else’s help for the scis­sor-work and con­tour­ing of the back and ears, so I have yet to try that myself. Should­n’t be too hard. I’ll update when­ev­er I do that in the future.
  • While the longer top style-wise was­n’t too bad look­ing, I can’t staaaaand hair in my face, so it just got annoy­ing
  • If using the large hair clips, make sure to push them way up high or they’ll get in the way of the clip­per
  • Def­i­nite­ly use a spray bot­tle
  • I did­n’t real­ize the back of my head is so bumpy. If the pic­tures look like I chopped to much in some places, it’s actu­al­ly because of my head struc­ture

2nd Cut — 2/21/2026

Dura­tion: 10:30am — 11:14am (45 min­utes)

Cut in the kitchen this time which was much bet­ter and brighter than the bath­room. Messed up AGAIN in the same spot because I for­got to return the clip­per lever to the low­est lev­el which means that, yet again, I need­ed to use the #1 guard to smooth it out. It went much faster than the first time because I not only felt more com­fort­able as a whole, but I prop­er­ly uti­lized the 360 Mir­ror. Vac­u­um clean­er is much eas­i­er than broom and dust­pan. Short­er to start this time around and short­er to end with. Also did not have scis­sors and had help for the final touch­es yet again.

LEFT: Pre-cut; CENTER: Messed up in the low­er cor­ner, so had to cut on guard #1 to smooth it out; RIGHT: Post-cut (you can see how the top is very long)

3rd Cut — 4/12/2026

Dura­tion: 11:21am — 12:26pm (1 hour 5 min­utes)

Hair was short­er to start with, but longer to end with than pre­vi­ous iter­a­tions (most­ly because I did­n’t mess up as bad­ly). This time employed scis­sors to help, so it took a bit longer to com­plete, but the detail work is bet­ter. Still messed up when try­ing to use the comb + clip­per method to detail towards the top. Looks bad, but not as bad as the bot­tom of the hair­line. It’s real­ly nice to be able to cut when­ev­er I feel like on my own. This time, I’m going to add some more notes to the process now that it’s more stream­lined.

  • Wet and comb through­out the process
  • Pin hair as desired
  • Choose a Guard - Used #3 with the clip­per lev­el on the short­est set­ting
  • Clip the sides and the back using the 360 mir­ror — Use the mid­dle to start, then the mir­ror-in-the-mir­ror images (i.e. When cut­ting the right side, look to the left; When cut­ting the left side, look to the right). Use an under­hand hold and cut upwards.
Under­hand hold for the back
Mir­ror-in-mir­ror image with scis­sors
  • Ear and Back Detail — Wet, comb, then use scis­sors and/or mini clip­pers. BE CAREFUL!! This is the eas­i­est place to mess up!
  • Short­en and Fade as desired. Used #2 guard ON THE LONGEST CLIPPER LENGTH first, then at half lever for the mid­dle, and then the short­est on the low­est por­tion of the head. Use a scoop­ing motion with the clip­per to pre­vent sharp edges
  • Detail Time — I removed 2 hair clips and then went in small incre­ments with the clip­per lev­el. Be care­ful if you’re try­ing to use the comb as a guard to help. That’s where I messed up this time… heh… heh… Sigh.
  • Scis­sor Work — First time using scis­sors. I read some­where that the best way to cut bangs is to use the comb as a guide and do ver­ti­cal snips to make it look more nat­ur­al. I’m not going for bangs here, but I fig­ured it worked sim­i­lar­ly?
  • Final Touch­es — Look all around for even­ness. I ran the guard­ed clip­per around again to make sure all the areas were cut and found that I’d missed the upper back cor­ners near the top of my head

Com­plete!

Pre-cut
Post-cut

4th Cut — 6/7/2026

Dura­tion: 12:05 — 12:52pm (47 min­utes total)

I was amazed at how long my hair got in such a short time, but look­ing back, this is actu­al­ly a longer inter­val than usu­al. Appar­ent­ly, with hair this short, I need to cut it every 1.5 months. This was clos­er to 2 months. Used the notes from the last appt to help and, over­all, I felt extreme­ly con­fi­dent now that I’ve done it sev­er­al times. I think next time I’ll just start with the #2 guard… Using #3 first helps cut down on bulk so it does­n’t over­whelm the clip­per, but I’ll try to start with it next time. This ses­sion, I did­n’t even both­er using the mini clip­per at all and just used the scis­sors. It is high­ly rec­om­mend­ed and I took it away from the orig­i­nal post. It’s safer, more detailed, and I even test­ed out lay­er­ing a lit­tle. Most­ly hap­py. Still need­ed help to touch up lat­er because the hairs around the ears are too hard to get, that back and top of my head are hard to reach, and espe­cial­ly because I’m right-hand­ed. A lit­tle ner­vous about lay­er­ing. Will do more of it next time. Much short­er time dura­tion than last time! Because the detail work is much bet­ter, I was very hap­py with the out­come and with­out major mis­takes, I don’t have to wear a hat when I go out!

Left: Before; Right: After (I can see lit­tle fly aways in the very top back, but the top has much less bulk than pri­or ses­sions)

DIY: PVC and Hardware Cloth Garden Plant Enclosure + Winter Cover

writ­ten 8/5/2024, updat­ed 9/6/2025

Back to DIY Projects Page

Overview

What

Tem­po­rary/dis­as­sem­bly-pos­si­ble enclo­sure for patio and deck plants using PVC pipe and hard­ware cloth, fea­tur­ing doors

Why

Thiev­ing squir­rels, birds, and deer yet still allow­ing pol­li­na­tors, air, sun, and rain through

Time and Effort

Time: Sev­er­al hours to 1 day (maybe more)

Dif­fi­cul­ty: Mod­er­ate (depends on your equip­ment and mate­r­i­al sit­u­a­tion)

This is what start­ed it all. My beau­ti­ful can­taloupe brazen­ly stolen and eat­en right in front of my eyes by a crafty yet cute squir­rel

Materials and Cost

All mate­ri­als bought from Ama­zon and Home Depot

Mate­r­i­al

1″ 4ft PVC Pipe

1″ 6ft PVC Pipe

16-gauge 2′ x 50′ Hard­ware Cloth Roll

200′ 16-gauge Gal­va­nized Steel Wire

1″ PVC Hinges

1″ 90 Degree Elbow Fit­ting

1″ 3‑Way Fit­ting

1″ Tee Fit­ting

Cab­i­net Hard­ware Pulls

Quan­ti­ty

12 pipes

5 pipes

31ft

0.5 Roll

4 Hinges

8 Fit­tings

8 Fit­tings

2 Fit­tings

2 Pulls

TOTAL

Use Price

$80.40

$43.99

$24.80

$3.97

$36.68

$11.84

$26.00

$3.94

$4.38

$236.00

Owned Sup­plies:

Nee­dle Nose Pli­ers

Lines­man­’s Pli­ers

Diag­o­nal Cut­ting Pli­ers

Ratch­et­ing PVC Cut­ter

Sharpie

Mea­sur­ing Tape

Dig­i­tal Calipers

Rub­ber Mal­let

Bits/Driver

Screw Gauge

Planning and Schematics

Note: Draw­ings not to scale

Dimen­sions (L x W x H)

Out­er Dimen­sions: 45″ x 22″ x 53″

Door Dimen­sions: 20.5″ x 49″

Fit­ting Dimen­sions

3‑Way (For­mu­fit brand — 8 qty)

1¼ ” + 1⅜” = 2⅝” length

1.25in + 1.375in = 2.625in

90 Degree (Char­lotte Pipe brand — 8 qty)

1½” + 1⅛” = 2⅝”

1.5in + 1.125in = 2.625in

Tee (Char­lotte Pipe brand — 2 qty)

⅞” + 1⅜” + ⅞” = 3⅛”

0.875in + 1.375in + 0.875in = 3.125in

Pipe Lengths

Remem­ber that the ends of the pipes will fit into the fit­tings. All mea­sure­ments are approx­i­mate. Actu­al item dimen­sions may vary

Out­er Frame

42″ pipe (4 qty) — Length

19″ pipe (4 qty) — Width

50″ pipe (5 qty) — Height

Doors

17.5“pipe (4 qty) — Width

46.5″ pipe (4 qty) — Height

Over­all Weight

1 in, 4 ft PVC pipe = 1.4lbs

Over­all Weight of Enclo­sure: ~37lbs

Author’s Note

From start to fin­ish, con­cep­tion to assem­bly, this took a total of 3 days of time. Not count­ing wait­ing for parts, choos­ing parts, etc. The idea start­ed way back in 2022 when I was hav­ing issues with squir­rels steal­ing my toma­toes. I dreamed up and drew up plans, even going as far as to buy­ing much of the mate­ri­als to do it (orig­i­nal­ly out of wood and com­pos­ite wood). How­ev­er, the squir­rels quit steal­ing my stuff until this year when my veg­eta­bles and fruit dis­ap­peared one by one. The final straw was the baby can­taloupe! WARTIME. Since it would be placed on the deck instead of the ground like the orig­i­nal plans intend­ed, I need­ed a less weighty option and there­fore chose PVC pipe. Armed with the orig­i­nal plans, I altered them. You can plan all you’d like, but doing is com­plete­ly dif­fer­ent! So start­ed the 3 day-total-time jour­ney (real­ly, it took about a week wait­ing for all the pieces). Many, many cal­cu­la­tions, mis­cal­cu­la­tions, frus­tra­tions, and even blood shed­ding lat­er, I’ve — at this writ­ing — most­ly com­plet­ed the project. Just a few minor tweaks and a test run before final­iz­ing the hard­ware.

Over­ar­ch­ing Ques­tion: Does it actu­al­ly work???

As of August 2025: YES, IT WORKS suc­cess­ful­ly against thiev­ing squir­rels! They tried, hard with no suc­cess! (see Notes sec­tion for more)

Process

Gathering Supplies and Equipment

Need­ed: Han­dles, PVC pipe, Ratch­et­ing pipe cut­ter, PVC fit­tings, hinges

Calculating, Measuring, Cutting, Assembling the Frame

Eas­i­ly the most time-con­sum­ing part. Using the spe­cial­ized PVC cut­ter and also a dig­i­tal caliper saved a lot of time. Just set­ting up the frame is easy. The hard part is fit­ting the doors prop­er­ly with­out cre­at­ing too much of a gap (try­ing to pre­vent crit­ter entry after all) around the door and frame while remem­ber­ing that the fit­tings add more length to each side (cal­cu­la­tions are done for you already in the schemat­ics above). On top of that, there’s the con­sid­er­a­tion of hard­ware cloth size to make as the hard­ware cloth is best wrap­ping around the pipe. If this was wood, it would be eas­i­er to just cre­ate a remov­able frame around the out­side of the cloth. Lots of re-mea­sur­ing and re-cut­ting until I got it right (or close enough).

Use a rub­ber mal­let to make sure the pieces are snug in the fit­tings

Hinges and Handles

This was more com­pli­cat­ed than it need­ed to be. Hard­ware includ­ed with the (unthread­ed) cheapo Han­dles are just too short to span the 1 in width of the PVC pipe. With­out buy­ing more or hav­ing to run out to a store, I delved into my giant box of ran­dom screws. Thank­ful­ly, I man­aged to find 4 that were both long enough and the right size (screw and thread gauges are use­ful). The Hinges snapped eas­i­ly onto the PVC and most­ly stay in place. And no won­der they stay in, because it gouges the plas­tic like no oth­er if you remove and slide them around, so make sure you’ve mea­sured where you want them first.

WARNING: Fas­ten any hinges before fas­ten­ing han­dles so that the han­dles are ori­ent­ed prop­er­ly, or at least mark loca­tions well. Because I wait­ed a year, my han­dles are now in a wonky ori­en­ta­tion

May 2025 — Hinge Per­ma­nence

Final­ly decid­ed to screw in the hinges. I was way too lazy to take the entire cab­i­net apart for the win­ter, but it end­ed up endur­ing the win­ter just fine

Used an 1164″ bit, lined up the hinges on the pipe, and went for it. End­ed up using ran­dom screws that I hap­pened to have, so they’re all mis­matched and end­ed up rust­ing over the sum­mer

Attaching the Hardware Cloth

This is 16-gauge hard­ware cloth which is hard to find in stores (at least where I am). It’s big enough to allow pol­li­na­tors, water, and air into the enclo­sure, but small enough to thwart rodent and avian rob­bers. This was the lim­it­ing fac­tor for size of the enclo­sure as the cloth I used was only 2ft wide (they sell them larg­er). And no, chick­en wire is not rec­om­mend­ed. Not only are the holes too large, but the wire is weak. Also, to note, because this enclo­sure sits on the deck, there is no need for bot­tom cov­er­age. If I were to use the wood­en schemat­ics made to sit on the ground, then it would be ful­ly enclosed by wood, or extra cloth would need to be sunk into the ground (1–2 ft deep) to deter dig­gers.

The exceed­ing­ly time-con­sum­ing and phys­i­cal­ly painful part of this was the issue of how to attach hard­ware cloth to PVC. With­out spend­ing a for­tune, I decid­ed on a roll of gen­er­al-pur­pose gal­va­nized steel wire and some pli­ers. How­ev­er, giv­en how long it took to secure every­thing (5 hours! In the bak­ing sun and even through a short down­pour), I’ve been think­ing of a bet­ter attach­ment method (See NOTES sec­tion)

Twisty-ties from let­tuce are nice and long
Nav­i­gat­ing cor­ners
Cut to bend
Over­lap­ping pieces
Tem­po­rary twisty ties to hold two ver­ti­cal pieces of hard­ware cloth togeth­er
Bend­ing these under
3rd lay­er of over­lap (top, back, and side)
Twisting the Galvanized Steel Wire with Pliers

After much tri­al and error, I found that this was the fastest way (at least by hand) to tie off the 16-gauge steel wire (per­haps I should have used some­thing small­er)

Cut
Thread and ori­ent
Grab with line­man’s pli­ers
Twist
Keep twist­ing (be care­ful, though, twist­ing in the same spot too fast and hard will snap it)
Tight

Fun fact: If you feel the met­al after twist­ing, it’ll feel real­ly hot

Grab some nee­dle nose pli­ers and bend it away from pok­ing peo­ple
Safer!

Keep Going Until Completion

What’s annoy­ing is that tying off the hard­ware cloth with wire will cause ran­dom pock­ets where it bows out. Just keep on until every­thing is secure. Be aware that the ends of the hard­ware cloth and the steel wire are very sharp!

While the cam­era did­n’t focus on it, cut out pieces to make room for the han­dles
Trim­ming excess of doors
Trim­ming ends to pre­vent scratch­ing of feet or deck
Where doors meet. While does­n’t look ide­al, it works because touch­ing wire acts like a latch to hold them togeth­er
Hinges can still be manip­u­lat­ed since they’re not yet screwed in
Note the spac­ing between the hinge hard­ware. You can open or close the space just by twist­ing the hinge (hence why it has­n’t been secured until the end)

Complete!

Most­ly. No lock­ing hard­ware yet. Com­ing back to this 2 years after the fact, I’m still hold­ing strong with just a ball bungee through the 2 han­dles.

Wel­come home, can­taloupe plant!
3 total bungee cords to hold in place while in test­ing phase. Works real­ly well
Giv­en the space at the bot­tom where some­thing can push its way in, all I did was place a spare paver brick and voila!

Winter Cover

The aim was to have it decon­structable, but I was too lazy, so I decid­ed to use it as sort of a win­ter­ized green­hou­se­ish thing. My region is Zone 7B USDA har­di­ness. Two options (so far) for win­ter­i­za­tion.

Plastic Sheeting

Suit­able for mild win­ters with low dura­tion freez­ing peri­ods, about 20–40F.

Mate­r­i­al

6 mil Green­house Plas­tic Sheet­ing 12′ x 25′ (much too large)

Zip Ties

Pack­ing Tape (for cor­ners)

Pic­tures!

Plas­tic Sheet­ing. I bought entire­ly too much. Prob­a­bly need­ed half of that.
6 mil thick­ness
Zip tie secur­ing and tape for the cor­ners
Cut it off for neat appear­ance
Left open­ings around seams for ven­ti­la­tion and access
Poked a few drainage/vent holes in the top with a screw­driv­er

Plastic Sheeting Winterizing Results

2 months: hard freeze ear­ly Decem­ber for 1–2 weeks, and it’s dipped as low as the teens. So far so good. The plants seem to be doing just fine in there. I have hard neck gar­lic, straw­ber­ry, my blue­ber­ry plant, and onions.

Post-Win­ter: For about 5ish years, the win­ter had been pret­ty mild. 2024–2025 win­ter was nor­mal for this area which trans­lates to peri­ods of very cold and snow. Unfor­tu­nate­ly, that meant that my plas­tic lay­ers did NOT work well enough. If tem­per­a­tures stay around 20–40F, then the plas­tic is fine. If there are hard freezes for extend­ed peri­ods of time, this is not good enough. All of my plants died except the straw­ber­ry which did­n’t mind at all and looks amaz­ing (in a 10-gal­lon fab­ric pot). The blue­ber­ry most­ly died but final­ly start­ed sprout­ing new shoots from the root late June 2025. I was dis­ap­point­ed and will update again this fall when I set up the new ver­sion of this using hard plas­tic walls instead of the sheet­ing. Stay tuned!

Twin-Wall Polycarbonate Sheet

4′ x 2′ x 0.24″ Poly­car­bon­ate Green House Pan­els. They’re a rigid plas­tic sheet­ing that are shat­ter­proof which sup­pos­ed­ly allows them to with­stand severe weath­er, and keeps the green­house both warm in the win­ter and cool in the sum­mer. The work­ing tem­per­a­ture range is: ‑42°F to 248°F (-44°C to 120°C)

Stay-tuned! I will attempt to attach this to the struc­ture and report when I’m suc­cess­ful!

Notes

9/2025 — Added a snap-on door stop made with a 3D print­er to pre­vent the doors from swing­ing too hard inward. Easy to drill and per­ma­nent­ly attach to PVC pipe if desired. Through­out the grow­ing sea­son, had plants inside then enclo­sure that were able to be pol­li­nat­ed no prob­lem. Doors made it easy to access plants. End­ed up mov­ing the corn plants inside after squir­rel rob­bery. The enclo­sure was a tad too short for the corn, so tas­sels extend­ed out, but suc­cess­ful­ly thwart­ed squir­rels that tried hard to get into the corn (they oblit­er­at­ed the corn tas­sels try­ing to pull the entire plant out). Suc­cess!! Just bought the poly­car­bon­ate pan­els for a new attempt at cre­at­ing a cold frame for the win­ter. Still have yet to attach actu­al door latch­es and am still using a ball

Ball Bungee Cord is easy to use
Door stop that just snaps onto the PVC. Can be per­ma­nent­ly fas­tened. This is not at the moment

August 2024 — It’s been almost a month since test phase start­ed, and squir­rels have left it com­plete­ly alone. No evi­dence of rot­ting, so good air­flow, pol­li­na­tors busi­ly doing their thing, vines climb­ing the cloth like a trel­lis… alto­geth­er very hap­py with its func­tion. Even the bungee cords per­form well and are easy to remove. Still have not secured hinges or installed latch­es… and I’m not sure I want to. It would make for a refined prod­uct, but the bungee cords work well.

August 2025 — Squir­rels robbed me of corn, so moved the pot into the enclo­sure. SUCCESS!!! First true test against the rodents. They des­per­ate­ly want­ed the corn, but could not get in. They even tried to pull the corn up through the top by yank­ing on the tas­sels. All that did was rip the tas­sels off the plant. They nev­er got inside! Yay!! It WORKS!!!

If I were to do it again, I would do sev­er­al things:

  • Buy hard­ware cloth that’s wide enough to not need so much over­lap. Like, one that can span from one side, to the back, and to the oth­er side. The top can be sep­a­rate.
  • If using the gal­va­nized steel wire method of attach­ment, then buy a Wire Twister Tool for Drill. Not only would that save tons of time, but phys­i­cal fatigue
  • Mea­sure the place­ment of the hinges before snap­ping them on
  • Paint it green or brown. White is so stark in the gar­den! Or if you have expend­able income, then buy For­mu­fit’s col­ored PVC
  • Fig­ure out a dif­fer­ent way to attach the hard­ware cloth (Ideas are all expen­sive yet remove­able: 2in Rub­ber Cable Clamps, 2 in Binder Rings, 6in Steel Wire Twist Bar­rel Key­chains, etc.)

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