Homemade Deli Meat – With and Without Ham Maker

written 4/15/2024, updated 7/21/2025

The juices that came out of this… YUM

What

Making deli meat at home by combining different cuts of meat (can be same kind of meat or a mixture) with and without a Ham Maker

Why

Ability to control what’s put inside your own cold cuts, and can be cheaper

Time and Effort

Time: A few hours

Effort: Easy

Ingredients

Meat

Seasonings

Supplies

Mixing Bowls

Cutting Board

Knives/Meat Grinder/Processor

Ham Maker

Plastic Wrap/Sausage Wrapping

Foil

Pot/Rice Cooker/Oven

Ham Maker Method

Using a Ham Maker is really the easiest way to make a formed meat, especially if you want to mix several cuts or meats together. It can also be used without mixing meats or grinding them. Ham Makers make the wrapping step a cinch.

Ham Maker

Ingredients and Supplies

Meat, Seasonings, Water, Ham Maker, Cooking Bag, Tall Pot, Pot Thermometer, Stove, Refrigerator

Time

30 minutes Prep + 2 hours Cook + overnight Chill

Process

  • Wash your Ham Maker if you haven’t
  • Fill a tall pot with Water, and heat it up on the stove (Target: 182-195F)
  • Choose your meat:

Whole Meat – an entire piece of meat, uncut (e.g. pork loin, pork shoulder, whole breast)

Mixed Meat – a formed mash of different cuts or combinations of meat types

  • Prepare your selection by removing veins, bones, and sinews. Decide if you want to keep, and how much, any fat
  • If using a meat mixture, chop, mince, grind, process, or any combination as desired
  • Season your choice of meat, to taste
  • Allow to set for a few minutes
  • In the meantime, line the Ham Maker with a Cooking Bag
  • When ready, place meat into the canister
  • Twist the top of the bag closed
  • Close the Ham Maker with the press and lid, then insert the thermometer
  • When water in the pot reaches between 180 – 195F, place the full Ham Maker in the water, making sure the water level sits above the fill line of the meat inside
  • Keep the temperature steady (I set my gas stove low-medium)
  • Cook until internal temperature reaches the safe cooking temperature for your meat choice, about 2 hours
  • Place the hot Ham Maker on a hot pad in the refrigerator and cool overnight
  • When fully cooled, run canister under warm water to release the meat

Slice and Enjoy!

Pictures!!

Chopped, Minced, and Processed
Removing Air Bubbles
Squish
It’s Hot!
Chilling
Opening
Pour out the juice
Release
Still in Bag
There it is!

Ta-DAAA!! The hole is where both the twist top of the plastic and the thermometer when in. You can see the texture differences from the different cuts/processing of the meat. Delicious!

No Ham Maker Methods

Sous Vide and Smoked are two methods of making this. If you don’t have a sous vide device, there are alternatives

Sous Vide Method

There are different ways to sous vide without actually using a sous vide device. You can use an oven, a Dutch oven or a pot, and even a rice cooker.

Ingredients and Supplies

Meat, Seasonings, Mixing Bowls, Water, Pot/Oven/Rice Cooker, Thermometer, Refrigerator

Time

35 minutes Prep + 2 hours Cook + Chill

Prepare Meat

*Pictures below

  • Remove any veins, sinews, and bones. Remove or use fat as desired
  • Choose your meat:

Whole Meat – an entire piece of meat, uncut (e.g. pork loin, pork shoulder, whole breast)

Mixed Meat – a formed mash of different cuts or combinations of meat types

  • If using Mixed Meat, prepare a [diced: minced: ground] meat ratio of [¾ : ½ : ⅓ lb] or [350 : 250 : 150 g]
  • Season the meat, to taste (If desired, season each texture a bit differently for a combined complex flavor)

Wrap

  • Set out a double layer of plastic wrap and sprinkle half with smoked paprika and whatever else you’d like
  • Turn out meat mixture
  • Tightly roll into desired shape and size

NOTE: Make sure wrapped meat log(s) will fit into your cooking implement so it can be covered in water!

  • Secure the ends

Cooking

Here are 3 methods of cooking the meat ham without dedicated Sous Vide equipment

Pot Method

  • Fill with water
  • Bring water to a boil
  • Place meat log into the water (make sure meat is and will be fully submerged the whole time)
  • Bring to a boil again
  • Turn off heat and place lid tightly on top
  • Leave for 45 minutes to 1 hour
  • Check for doneness with thermometer
  • Repeat if necessary
  • When done, let cool and enjoy, or chill in refrigerator

Oven Method

  • Preheat oven to 215 – 220F (100C)
  • Select a deep dish or oven safe pot
  • Boil enough water to fill
  • Pour in boiling water
  • Place meat log
  • Cover with parchment paper
  • Cover that in foil and/or a tight lid
  • Cook for 1-3 hours until 160F (75C)
  • Remove from oven
  • Place in an ice bath and/or refrigerator until internal temperature is 50F (10C)

Rice Cooker Method

  • Boil water
  • Pour boiled water into rice cooker
  • Using a thermometer, mix in cold water until water temperature is somewhere between 175-195F
  • Place meat log into water
  • Close
  • Set rice cooker to Keep Warm
  • Cook for about 2 hours
  • Be sure temperature is safe for choice of meat
  • Let cool then enjoy or chill in refrigerator

Pictures (Oven Method)

Ta Da!! Taste was ON POINT

Smoker Method

This method uses a meat grinder then a meat smoker. You can use a dedicated meat grinder, a meat grinding attachment for a stand mixer, or even just a food processor

Prepare Meat

  • Decide on ratio of meat cuts (e.g. [½ : ½] ratio of [skinned chicken thigh : skinless chicken breast])
  • Cut into small pieces

Grind/Process

  • Grind/Process 1st time
  • Grind/Process 2nd time
  • Add any desired seasonings and half of total water

NOTE: For 1lb of meat, add 20ml (⅔ oz. or 1⅓ Tbsp) of water

Total ratio is 40mL water per 1lb (40mL = 1⅓ oz = 2¾ Tbsp)

  • Grind/Process 3rd time

Wrap

  • Place ground meat in a mixing bowl
  • Add the rest of the water, and then mix together really well (should be very sticky)
  • Pump or stuff into an edible or inedible casing (100mm is the largest size I could find on Amazon)
  • Secure the end

Cooking

Overview: 1 hour Dry + 1 hour @ 130F + 1 hour @ 145F + 1 hour @ 160F + more @ 175F

Total: ~5 hours

  • Set smoker to 120F (50C), NO smoke, NO humidity, OPEN dampers to dry the casing for 1 hour
  • Set to 130F (55C), ADD smoke, ADD humidity (water pan), ¾ damper for 1 hour
  • 145F (65C) for 1 hour
  • 160F (72F) for 1 hour
  • 175F (75C) until internal temperature reaches 160F (72C)
  • Place in an ice bath to separate the casing and the meat

Slice and enjoy!

Notes

Attempt 4/14/24: Used Oven Sous Vide Method. Should have added something like cornstarch in the meat mixture to give it some adherence. That and/or changing the ratio to add more ground/pureed meat to fill in the gaps in the meat, while taking away from the original cubed meat. Even if cubing (altered the recipe directions to use smaller pieces), then should process a little. 3 degrees of food processor chopping to make the final product smoother would be more ideal. The way this ended up was more of a headcheese. There IS an obvious complex texture, but it all fell apart easily. The 3 different flavor profiles gave it GREAT taste. Made the mistake of not thinking about the cooking vessel until after rolling the meat. Should have cut it in half and then would have been able to have 2 smaller hams and able to cook it inside of the Dutch oven with the water filled to the top. The way I had it, the water didn’t even cover the whole meat log, so cooking was very uneven. Unsure of how to test internal temperature of meat log without making a mess. Cooking @ 215F took about 2.5 to 3 hours total. Used way too much plastic wrap and wasn’t able to use a lidded dish, just 2 layers of foil. Meat used: Chicken. 3 thighs, 1.5 breast, ¼lb ground chicken (hand squeezed to pulverize). NEXT TIME: more ground chicken, less cubed breast. Add cornstarch for smoothness and adherence. Smaller logs for more even cooking. More food processing. Maybe try using meat casing.

7/21/2025: Used Ham Maker

  • Sous Vide cooking charts recommend cooking chicken at 150F for 1-3 hours.
  • A Ham Maker is a MUCH easier method of doing this. It’s a metal contraption with a spring in it that fits right into a stock pot on the stove and does the same thing neatly. However, if you don’t have one and don’t want one, this is fine, too.
  • There’s always the option of baking or broiling it after the fact for a possible crust or rind? Haven’t attempted that yet

DIY: Portable Cooling Unit

written 7/14/25; updated 7/14/25

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What

Make your own air conditioner that’s not really air conditioning. This device made from household items helps blow cold air from water chilled by ice. It is highly customizable. Best for small spaces.

Why

The use case for this assembly can be varied. Examples: the top of my townhouse that never gets A/C properly, picnics, tailgating, my workplace whenever it loses A/C (at least once a year), etc.

Time and Effort

Time: 2-3 hours

Effort: Easy-Moderate

Materials and Cost

Materials

Submersible Pump USB, 3W/50gph

Arctic Zone Titan Cooler, 16-can

Radiator w/ Fan, 120mm/DC12V/12pipe

Tubing, 3/8″-1/2″ (0.3″-05″; 8-12mm)

Dual 3 or 4-pin USB Adapter, 12V

4in Dust Hose, sculptable/flexible

4in Bell Nozzle Dust Collection Fitting

USB Hub with Power Switches, 2.5A/5V

Cost

$6.99

$27.99 (sale)

$20.99

Free (~$6)

$8.99

$15.45

$19.98

$19.99

TOTAL: $120.39 ($126.39)

Owned Supplies

Sharpie

Dremel w/Cutting Bit

Driver w/Drill Bit

Screws, Nuts, Washers

Utility Knife

Ruler/Square

Safety Glasses

Optionalthe assembly is highly customizable

  • 120mm Slim Case Fan attached to other side of radiator for push/pull method (~$10)
  • Replace the 120mm Radiator w/Fan with a 240mm Radiator w/Fan ($36.99), Slim Case Fan 3-pack w/PWM sharing ($28.99)
  • Add another Fan to the end of the Flex Hose for even more pulling power (~$10-$30), by utilizing a 3D printer or buying a Duct Collector Flange (~$10)
  • If you don’t need the on/off switches for power, then just a dual port USB A power block is fine (~$10)
  • You can also get a USB splitter plus an in-line USB with on/off switch all connected to a 1-port wall block, but that would mean many adapters and could compromise power delivery if not careful
  • Use an insulating tape around the base of the Bell Attachment

Schematics

This is the original schematic I drew. It has different components I didn’t end up using like wing nuts, a diverter tray at the bottom, and an added plastic sheet/bracket for fastening the hose flange on top to.

Process

Planning and Measurements

  • After gathering supplies, try them out to see if they will fit, the best orientation, etc. Adjust as necessary
  • Cut Hoses to fit the Submersible Pump and Radiator w/Fan into reservoir (orange liner bucket)
  • Decide if you want to use the push or pull method (or both) for the radiator, and swap the fan to the desired side

Note: Cooler fans always have a direction of flow and spin indicator somewhere on there

  • Take measurements and mark them with the Sharpie
Notches for cords

Cutting

  • As nerve-wracking as it can be, you just gotta do it to get it done
  • Start with the notches in the plastic. I used a Dremel with a cutting wheel and it was quite simple. *Don’t forget safety glasses when cutting plastic!!*
Dremels make the plastic melt while cutting
It’s useful for keeping things mostly smooth
  • Now for the cooler. I decided to trace the inside of the Bell Nozzle Attachment to open up as much space as possible for the air movement (planning on later using a 240mm instead of just the 120mm). Using the utility knife, I cut through the 3 layers of insulating material
  • Initially, I’d planned on just setting the Bell Attachment on top of the cooler, so next, I drilled holes for the 4 attachment points through insulating material and the orange plastic (needed to stand on a stool to do this on the workbench) using a 1/4″ bit
  • Then, I traced the opening on the plastic with a Sharpie because now I can see the line through the backside. It’s time to cut the opening! Here, you have options. I think the easiest method is to run the utility knife multiple times around the shape, cutting deeper each time, then clean up with the Dremel (sanding bit) afterwards (unless you have other fun tools in your arsenal). Instead, I decided to get fancy and use aviator snips (tin snips) because they pretty much cut everything. The problem is that you have to know how to use them otherwise you mess up like I did. Thankfully, it wasn’t a huge deal. It really doesn’t have to be gorgeous, either.
Right side snips. Not sure where my left one is…
Oops. Tried to the the center snips

Securement

  • Here, you have to decide how you want to mount the Bell Attachment: Under the insulation? Above? And, even, if you want to secure it on top of the cooler fabric, or underneath it, just on the orange plastic.
Under?
Above?
  • I happen to have a huge box of loose screws organized by size, and some random washers and nuts, so I chose some 1/4″ (M6) screws
  • Initially, I used the 1″ screws, washers, and nuts to go all the way through.
  • In the end, I changed my mind used the 1/2″ length screws and attached it all underneath the cooler fabric because the 1″ screws were too long even through the fabric and would impede the fan/radiator placement inside

Final Assembly and Testing

Time to put it all together!

  • First up, replace the orange liner bucket, suction the Submersible Pump to the bottom, and replace the tray with the Pump’s cord through the notch
  • Fit the water tubes down into the reservoir through the tray’s convenient holes (bonus, this stabilizes the radiator/fan unit) and attach to the Pump
  • Attach all Power Cords and Adapters together
  • Attach the Flexible Hose to the Bell Attachment

Time to Test!

  • Move the tray aside a little, and fill ‘er up with water (make sure it’s always past the top of the Pump… You should never run those dry!) and ice packs. I happened to use ice because I ran out of ice packs testing out the first iteration of this assembly (see end of post if interested)
  • Plug it all in
Filling up!
Water is draining into the reservoir just like it’s supposed to!
  • DONE! Give it some time to start cooling
Hello!!

Result

07/14/25: The power really isn’t as strong as I’d like it to be. Ended up trying all kinds of fans (happened to have) to try and boost power. More money equals more power, but also more noise… With that said, having this when it’s about 100F with no other air source, would be a Godsend.

The cooler is insanely portable, and everything about this cooler by Arctic Zone is perfect for this application from the tray with convenient holes to the zipper-less closure, to the plastic liner tray which makes it fully waterproof, to just how nice it looks. It even comes in a 48-Can size!! Technically, you can just scoot the tray aside and carry drinks in the reservoir, too. Even food if you have space in the tray. I’m sure you can 3D print any manner of dividers if you’re not using the whole tray for fans. The largest sized cooler could really have dual fan and vent setup.

Just store the cords and block in the pockets when not using
Lift out and pour water. Easy peasey.

Here is a hose-end fan attached with a 3D printed 4″ adapter

When I have more monies, I will try the 240mm Radiator with push and pull fans, then update here.

Notes

  • Your choice on how you want to orient the fan on the radiator. You can unscrew and re-screw to the other side, or even add another fan for a push/pull method instead of just push or pull
  • Many soft-sided coolers are NOT actually waterproof! Be careful!
  • Submersible pumps are easily clogged. You do not need a powerful one. A weaker one will do just fine
  • Ice packs are preferable to actual ice, though you can use ice itself, too. The reason being tiny ice pieces can enter the pump and potentially damage the entire system
  • Very large chunks of ice do not melt easily or quickly, and can provide longer cooling than small pieces
  • This can also be done in a hardcase cooler. I chose this cooler because drilling through plastic of a hard cooler would likely necessitate some sort of sealing to retain the insulating abilities of the cooler. Like, spray foam or insulating tape?

Test Run

If you’re interested, I initially tested it all out on a small cooler/lunch bag that was free. I’d drawn schematics for 2 different setups including the smaller setup. The result was less than ideal:

  • The fan and radiator were much too large for the front pocket that I’d planned on trying
  • Poking holes through the bag to the reservoir of water is not idea for leakage reasons, yet running the hoses around the outside alongside the power cords made for a very ugly setup and high chance for leaking, not to mention reduced water-cooling capabilities
    • The cooler/lunch box ended up leaking because it’s not actually waterproof

Here are some pictures!

Original Schematic
Just need a utility knife to score and break
Mounted!
Pump goes in, but has no hard surface to suction to
Too tight a fit, so the hoses have to stick up and out
Closing it inside the pocket kinks the hoses
Pump and radiator work well!
For reference, the counter outside it was 69F
In the end it leaked everywhere and was a bust

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