Daifuku (Red Bean Mochi) Recipe

written 12/8/24, updated 12/8/24

What

Japanese dessert. It’s mochi (sweet glutinous rice flour), a chewy rice cake, wrapped around a filling, usually anko (sweet red bean paste). Can be filled with other ingredients like mung bean, fresh cut fruit, ice cream, or custard, and colored with powders (such as matcha powder), fresh fruit puree, or food coloring.

This recipe is made in the microwave for ease, but can also be steamed

*See Notes for more details

Ingredients

1 Cup Shiratamako or Mochiko Sweet Rice Flour (*See Notes)

¼ – ½ Cup Sugar (more or less as desired)

1 Cup Water

1 Cup Anko (sweet red bean paste, bought or made)

Katakuriko (potato starch or cornstarch as needed for dusting)

Supplies

Heat-proof bowl

Silicone Spatula

Silicone Whisk

Plastic Wrap/Microwave Cover

Parchment Paper

Baking Sheet/Tray

Time and Serving

Time: 5 minutes combine + 2 minutes microwave + 20 minutes shaping = 30 minutes

Serving: 8 pieces

Directions

  • Prepare your Anko filling
  • On a tray or baking sheet, do the same thing and set aside (this is where you’ll put the formed daifuku)
  • Whisk together Flour (1 Cup) and Sugar (¼ – ½ Cup, to your desire)
  • Add the Water (1 Cup) and combine with the silicone spatula until it forms a smooth batter
  • Cover with either plastic wrap or microwave lid
  • Microwave for about 1.5 minutes
  • Remove and stir well
  • Return to microwave for another 1.5 minutes
  • It should have formed a shiny, smooth dough, a somewhat hard lump, different from the batter from before
  • If not, then return for 30 seconds at a time, stirring in between
  • Dust your parchment paper workspace with either potato starch or cornstarch
  • Scrape the dough out onto your workspace (Be careful, it’s going to be HOT)
  • Sprinkle starch as needed to make it less sticky
  • Divide the hot dough into equal portions
  • Roll them into flat disks
  • Put your Anko filling into the middle and pinch the ends to close them
  • Place it seam side down on your pre-dusted tray
  • Continue to make the rest
  • This is best enjoyed right away, or cover and refrigerate up to 2 days

Notes

Clean-Up Tips

  • Soak your bowls and implements in water to help loosen it up
  • Try not to dump the wet flour down the drain if you don’t want to deal with a clog
  • If it’s being stubborn even after soaking, use the silicone spatula to scrape the wet dough into the trashcan

Katakuriko = potato starch

Mochi vs Dango

  • Dango: term for ball-shaped foods
  • While these days the lines have blurred between the two desserts’ ingredients, traditionally, the difference is that Mochi was made from steamed glutinous RICE (grain) and pounded in a pestle, while Dango was made from non-glutinous rice FLOUR, mixed with water, kneaded, then steamed or boiled.
  • Dango is made like boba, where the little balls are boiled

When made the same way (Flour, sugar, and boil little balls) tapioca starch (cassava) will make boba, while rice flour will make dango.

Mochiko vs Shiratamako

  • Both flours are similar to each other but differ in processing
  • Both can be used in other dishes like bakery goods and as thickening agents in savory dishes
Mochiko
  • Ground when rice is dry
  • Less working time until hardening
  • Sticky, chewy texture
  • Stronger flavor
  • Finely ground flour
Shiratamako
  • Ground when rice is wet, then dried
  • Stretchier, even when cool
  • Smoother texture, more delicate
  • Good for refined desserts
  • Coarse, granular textured flour

DIY: Frame it All System Raised Bed Install Replacement

written 4/13/2024, updated 4/13/2024

Overview

What

Replacing an old, rotted, worn wood raised bed border with a food-safe composite board made from “38% HDPE plastic and 62% certified sustainably sourced wood fibers” which is equivalent to 97 single-use plastic bottles. Bug resistant, no rot.

Time and Effort

Dependent on condition of yard and slope

Time: 4 hours

Effort: Easy – Moderate

Materials and Cost

Garden Tools, Soil, Rock, Rubber Mallet, Gloves, Elbow Grease

Product: 4′ x 12′ Raised Garden Bed

Options: 2″ thickness, 11″ height, Weathered Wood color

Price: $429.99 – $64.49 (coupon) + free shipping = $365.50 (no tax)

  • In comparison, Paver wall retaining blocks like, Mini Beltis 3 in. H x 8 in. W x 4 in. D Ashland Concrete Retaining Wall Block, need 96 total blocks to get 2 courses, but only sits 6in high. Would need 4 courses of pavers to reach a similar 12″ height (compared to the 11″ of the Frame it All system).
  • Cost: 96 blocks x $1.38 = $132.48 (6″ height)
  • Cost: 192 blocks x $1.38 = $264.96 (12″ height)
  • Cheaper until you remember you need paver base, leveling sand, and to get almost 200 retaining blocks to your house. Then to heft them to the garden
  • Pros of paver wall blocks: Won’t break if hitting with lawn mowing equipment or other rocks, bug and animal proof, easier to work with uneven terrain, can be replaced easily or moved/changed or expanded

Installation

HERE is a link to the product page that includes the video walkthrough of installation

HERE is their official YouTube channel

Before and After

Preparation

Removing Rebar: the original, rotten wood was held in with at least 15 pieces of rebar of varying lengths. How do you remove rebar stuck in the ground? Turns out it’s really easy: Vise Grip Pliers.

Lock it on, give it several spins, then spin while pulling upwards. It really is as simple as that. Some pieces can be still stubborn, but just give it a few more spins, some back and forth, and nice steady pressure upwards.

Old pieces of wood and rebar removed, as well as some wayward patio pavers. Then laying out the composite boards, and the bulk of the entire job: leveling, fixing the bed plot, removing weeds and rocks, relocating any existing plants. Muscle and elbow grease, FTW

Assembling

Yay! Finally assembling the frame system, but don’t be fooled into ease! Now for the technical part.

There is one Stacking Bracket kit for every 2 boards. Making sure to alternate the up and down orientation of the brackets on either end, secure them to the boards using the little plug. Frame-it-All recommends either using your palms or a mallet to push it in, but you’re guaranteed to want to use a mallet unless your hands are made of something harder than mine (kept getting my palm flesh stuck between the plug and the bracket…) especially the more boards you’ll be securing.

I’d recommend attaching brackets to just enough boards for the bottom layer for now because installing the crossbars will mess things up if you try to do them all at once.

Following Frame-It-All’s instructions, it’s time to dry fit the lowest level together by placing the stakes in upside down. This is a super important step that you do not want to skip because it allows you level the pieces and see how it all lines up.

Similarly, it’s extremely important to dry fit the crossbeam stabilizing boards… I wish I’d paid more attention to this part because my pieces ended up juuuust a little too far in the final install and it was a pain to try and fix at the end (when you’re tired! Or at least I was with all of the leveling I had to do of the bed plot).

When you’re ready, it’s hammer time!

Even with it all hammered into the ground, this is the best time to double check your evenness and leveling. You can still lift the stakes and fix things. I had a lot of work to do in that department

And now on to the tricky part. It’s time to assemble the rest of the boards and brackets, but first, you have to understand the bracket orientation of the crossbars using the 4-Way Bracing Brackets before assembling the rest of the brackets to the boards

Dry fit all the boards again, and using the 4-Way Bracing Bracket kits, figure out the stabilizing crossbeam 3-way orientation. Attach the rest of the brackets to the boards after figuring it out. If you mess up, it’s not a big deal. Just use a flat-head screwdriver in the little notch and twist out the plugs

Now to set up the 3-way bracing brackets for the crossbar. You need 1 Regular Stacking Bracket, 1 Mid 4-Way Bracing Bracket, and 1 Top 4-Way Bracing Bracket.

Referencing the image above and ignoring the bottom level, the leftmost board has a Regular Stacking Bracket (bottom of stack), the crossbeam has a Mid 4-Way Bracing Bracket, and the rightmost board has the Top 4-Way Bracing Bracket (top of stack).

**However you end up orienting them, make sure the top of the cross-board is flush with the rest of the boards**

When you’re ready, hammer them all in! Keep in mind that hammering in the top might cause the bottom layer to sink into the ground a bit if you didn’t use any paver/rock base. You can just lift up from the bottom and fix it.

Yay!

Fix anything you need to, and then cover up the holes with the Finishing Caps!

Now, for some soil. I decided to add some rock underneath since the ground is basically all clay

ALL DONE. Sort of. I need some more soil.

Soil Quantity

In these images used 1.5cu. ft Garden Soil (Qty: 4) + 1 cu. ft Garden Soil (Qty: 4) + 0.5 cu. ft River Pebbles (Qty: 2) = 11cu. ft total

I think I still need another 8 bags of the 1.5 cu. ft Garden Soil before I’m satisfied, taking into account settling from rain and weather. Mulch will go on top

Total Volume: 12′ x 4′ x 0.92 ‘ = 44.16 cu ft

My ideal total garden soil volume: 22 cu. ft (remember the bed already had existing soil, plus rocks, and mulch will top it)

Instruction Manual

NOTE: Step 4 is only for 3 and 4 tier layouts