DIY: PVC and Hardware Cloth Garden Plant Enclosure + Winter Cover

writ­ten 8/5/2024, updat­ed 9/6/2025

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Overview

What

Tem­po­rary/dis­as­sem­bly-pos­si­ble enclo­sure for patio and deck plants using PVC pipe and hard­ware cloth, fea­tur­ing doors

Why

Thiev­ing squir­rels, birds, and deer yet still allow­ing pol­li­na­tors, air, sun, and rain through

Time and Effort

Time: Sev­er­al hours to 1 day (maybe more)

Dif­fi­cul­ty: Mod­er­ate (depends on your equip­ment and mate­r­i­al sit­u­a­tion)

This is what start­ed it all. My beau­ti­ful can­taloupe brazen­ly stolen and eat­en right in front of my eyes by a crafty yet cute squir­rel

Materials and Cost

All mate­ri­als bought from Ama­zon and Home Depot

Mate­r­i­al

1″ 4ft PVC Pipe

1″ 6ft PVC Pipe

16-gauge 2′ x 50′ Hard­ware Cloth Roll

200′ 16-gauge Gal­va­nized Steel Wire

1″ PVC Hinges

1″ 90 Degree Elbow Fit­ting

1″ 3‑Way Fit­ting

1″ Tee Fit­ting

Cab­i­net Hard­ware Pulls

Quan­ti­ty

12 pipes

5 pipes

31ft

0.5 Roll

4 Hinges

8 Fit­tings

8 Fit­tings

2 Fit­tings

2 Pulls

TOTAL

Use Price

$80.40

$43.99

$24.80

$3.97

$36.68

$11.84

$26.00

$3.94

$4.38

$236.00

Owned Sup­plies:

Nee­dle Nose Pli­ers

Lines­man­’s Pli­ers

Diag­o­nal Cut­ting Pli­ers

Ratch­et­ing PVC Cut­ter

Sharpie

Mea­sur­ing Tape

Dig­i­tal Calipers

Rub­ber Mal­let

Bits/Driver

Screw Gauge

Planning and Schematics

Note: Draw­ings not to scale

Dimen­sions (L x W x H)

Out­er Dimen­sions: 45″ x 22″ x 53″

Door Dimen­sions: 20.5″ x 49″

Fit­ting Dimen­sions

3‑Way (For­mu­fit brand — 8 qty)

1¼ ” + 1⅜” = 2⅝” length

1.25in + 1.375in = 2.625in

90 Degree (Char­lotte Pipe brand — 8 qty)

1½” + 1⅛” = 2⅝”

1.5in + 1.125in = 2.625in

Tee (Char­lotte Pipe brand — 2 qty)

⅞” + 1⅜” + ⅞” = 3⅛”

0.875in + 1.375in + 0.875in = 3.125in

Pipe Lengths

Remem­ber that the ends of the pipes will fit into the fit­tings. All mea­sure­ments are approx­i­mate. Actu­al item dimen­sions may vary

Out­er Frame

42″ pipe (4 qty) — Length

19″ pipe (4 qty) — Width

50″ pipe (5 qty) — Height

Doors

17.5“pipe (4 qty) — Width

46.5″ pipe (4 qty) — Height

Over­all Weight

1 in, 4 ft PVC pipe = 1.4lbs

Over­all Weight of Enclo­sure: ~37lbs

Author’s Note

From start to fin­ish, con­cep­tion to assem­bly, this took a total of 3 days of time. Not count­ing wait­ing for parts, choos­ing parts, etc. The idea start­ed way back in 2022 when I was hav­ing issues with squir­rels steal­ing my toma­toes. I dreamed up and drew up plans, even going as far as to buy­ing much of the mate­ri­als to do it (orig­i­nal­ly out of wood and com­pos­ite wood). How­ev­er, the squir­rels quit steal­ing my stuff until this year when my veg­eta­bles and fruit dis­ap­peared one by one. The final straw was the baby can­taloupe! WARTIME. Since it would be placed on the deck instead of the ground like the orig­i­nal plans intend­ed, I need­ed a less weighty option and there­fore chose PVC pipe. Armed with the orig­i­nal plans, I altered them. You can plan all you’d like, but doing is com­plete­ly dif­fer­ent! So start­ed the 3 day-total-time jour­ney (real­ly, it took about a week wait­ing for all the pieces). Many, many cal­cu­la­tions, mis­cal­cu­la­tions, frus­tra­tions, and even blood shed­ding lat­er, I’ve — at this writ­ing — most­ly com­plet­ed the project. Just a few minor tweaks and a test run before final­iz­ing the hard­ware.

Over­ar­ch­ing Ques­tion: Does it actu­al­ly work???

As of August 2025: YES, IT WORKS suc­cess­ful­ly against thiev­ing squir­rels! They tried, hard with no suc­cess! (see Notes sec­tion for more)

Process

Gathering Supplies and Equipment

Need­ed: Han­dles, PVC pipe, Ratch­et­ing pipe cut­ter, PVC fit­tings, hinges

Calculating, Measuring, Cutting, Assembling the Frame

Eas­i­ly the most time-con­sum­ing part. Using the spe­cial­ized PVC cut­ter and also a dig­i­tal caliper saved a lot of time. Just set­ting up the frame is easy. The hard part is fit­ting the doors prop­er­ly with­out cre­at­ing too much of a gap (try­ing to pre­vent crit­ter entry after all) around the door and frame while remem­ber­ing that the fit­tings add more length to each side (cal­cu­la­tions are done for you already in the schemat­ics above). On top of that, there’s the con­sid­er­a­tion of hard­ware cloth size to make as the hard­ware cloth is best wrap­ping around the pipe. If this was wood, it would be eas­i­er to just cre­ate a remov­able frame around the out­side of the cloth. Lots of re-mea­sur­ing and re-cut­ting until I got it right (or close enough).

Use a rub­ber mal­let to make sure the pieces are snug in the fit­tings

Hinges and Handles

This was more com­pli­cat­ed than it need­ed to be. Hard­ware includ­ed with the (unthread­ed) cheapo Han­dles are just too short to span the 1 in width of the PVC pipe. With­out buy­ing more or hav­ing to run out to a store, I delved into my giant box of ran­dom screws. Thank­ful­ly, I man­aged to find 4 that were both long enough and the right size (screw and thread gauges are use­ful). The Hinges snapped eas­i­ly onto the PVC and most­ly stay in place. And no won­der they stay in, because it gouges the plas­tic like no oth­er if you remove and slide them around, so make sure you’ve mea­sured where you want them first.

WARNING: Fas­ten any hinges before fas­ten­ing han­dles so that the han­dles are ori­ent­ed prop­er­ly, or at least mark loca­tions well. Because I wait­ed a year, my han­dles are now in a wonky ori­en­ta­tion

May 2025 — Hinge Per­ma­nence

Final­ly decid­ed to screw in the hinges. I was way too lazy to take the entire cab­i­net apart for the win­ter, but it end­ed up endur­ing the win­ter just fine

Used an 1164″ bit, lined up the hinges on the pipe, and went for it. End­ed up using ran­dom screws that I hap­pened to have, so they’re all mis­matched and end­ed up rust­ing over the sum­mer

Attaching the Hardware Cloth

This is 16-gauge hard­ware cloth which is hard to find in stores (at least where I am). It’s big enough to allow pol­li­na­tors, water, and air into the enclo­sure, but small enough to thwart rodent and avian rob­bers. This was the lim­it­ing fac­tor for size of the enclo­sure as the cloth I used was only 2ft wide (they sell them larg­er). And no, chick­en wire is not rec­om­mend­ed. Not only are the holes too large, but the wire is weak. Also, to note, because this enclo­sure sits on the deck, there is no need for bot­tom cov­er­age. If I were to use the wood­en schemat­ics made to sit on the ground, then it would be ful­ly enclosed by wood, or extra cloth would need to be sunk into the ground (1–2 ft deep) to deter dig­gers.

The exceed­ing­ly time-con­sum­ing and phys­i­cal­ly painful part of this was the issue of how to attach hard­ware cloth to PVC. With­out spend­ing a for­tune, I decid­ed on a roll of gen­er­al-pur­pose gal­va­nized steel wire and some pli­ers. How­ev­er, giv­en how long it took to secure every­thing (5 hours! In the bak­ing sun and even through a short down­pour), I’ve been think­ing of a bet­ter attach­ment method (See NOTES sec­tion)

Twisty-ties from let­tuce are nice and long
Nav­i­gat­ing cor­ners
Cut to bend
Over­lap­ping pieces
Tem­po­rary twisty ties to hold two ver­ti­cal pieces of hard­ware cloth togeth­er
Bend­ing these under
3rd lay­er of over­lap (top, back, and side)
Twisting the Galvanized Steel Wire with Pliers

After much tri­al and error, I found that this was the fastest way (at least by hand) to tie off the 16-gauge steel wire (per­haps I should have used some­thing small­er)

Cut
Thread and ori­ent
Grab with line­man’s pli­ers
Twist
Keep twist­ing (be care­ful, though, twist­ing in the same spot too fast and hard will snap it)
Tight

Fun fact: If you feel the met­al after twist­ing, it’ll feel real­ly hot

Grab some nee­dle nose pli­ers and bend it away from pok­ing peo­ple
Safer!

Keep Going Until Completion

What’s annoy­ing is that tying off the hard­ware cloth with wire will cause ran­dom pock­ets where it bows out. Just keep on until every­thing is secure. Be aware that the ends of the hard­ware cloth and the steel wire are very sharp!

While the cam­era did­n’t focus on it, cut out pieces to make room for the han­dles
Trim­ming excess of doors
Trim­ming ends to pre­vent scratch­ing of feet or deck
Where doors meet. While does­n’t look ide­al, it works because touch­ing wire acts like a latch to hold them togeth­er
Hinges can still be manip­u­lat­ed since they’re not yet screwed in
Note the spac­ing between the hinge hard­ware. You can open or close the space just by twist­ing the hinge (hence why it has­n’t been secured until the end)

Complete!

Most­ly. No lock­ing hard­ware yet. Com­ing back to this 2 years after the fact, I’m still hold­ing strong with just a ball bungee through the 2 han­dles.

Wel­come home, can­taloupe plant!
3 total bungee cords to hold in place while in test­ing phase. Works real­ly well
Giv­en the space at the bot­tom where some­thing can push its way in, all I did was place a spare paver brick and voila!

Winter Cover

The aim was to have it decon­structable, but I was too lazy, so I decid­ed to use it as sort of a win­ter­ized green­hou­se­ish thing. My region is Zone 7B USDA har­di­ness. Two options (so far) for win­ter­i­za­tion.

Plastic Sheeting

Suit­able for mild win­ters with low dura­tion freez­ing peri­ods, about 20–40F.

Mate­r­i­al

6 mil Green­house Plas­tic Sheet­ing 12′ x 25′ (much too large)

Zip Ties

Pack­ing Tape (for cor­ners)

Pic­tures!

Plas­tic Sheet­ing. I bought entire­ly too much. Prob­a­bly need­ed half of that.
6 mil thick­ness
Zip tie secur­ing and tape for the cor­ners
Cut it off for neat appear­ance
Left open­ings around seams for ven­ti­la­tion and access
Poked a few drainage/vent holes in the top with a screw­driv­er

Plastic Sheeting Winterizing Results

2 months: hard freeze ear­ly Decem­ber for 1–2 weeks, and it’s dipped as low as the teens. So far so good. The plants seem to be doing just fine in there. I have hard neck gar­lic, straw­ber­ry, my blue­ber­ry plant, and onions.

Post-Win­ter: For about 5ish years, the win­ter had been pret­ty mild. 2024–2025 win­ter was nor­mal for this area which trans­lates to peri­ods of very cold and snow. Unfor­tu­nate­ly, that meant that my plas­tic lay­ers did NOT work well enough. If tem­per­a­tures stay around 20–40F, then the plas­tic is fine. If there are hard freezes for extend­ed peri­ods of time, this is not good enough. All of my plants died except the straw­ber­ry which did­n’t mind at all and looks amaz­ing (in a 10-gal­lon fab­ric pot). The blue­ber­ry most­ly died but final­ly start­ed sprout­ing new shoots from the root late June 2025. I was dis­ap­point­ed and will update again this fall when I set up the new ver­sion of this using hard plas­tic walls instead of the sheet­ing. Stay tuned!

Twin-Wall Polycarbonate Sheet

4′ x 2′ x 0.24″ Poly­car­bon­ate Green House Pan­els. They’re a rigid plas­tic sheet­ing that are shat­ter­proof which sup­pos­ed­ly allows them to with­stand severe weath­er, and keeps the green­house both warm in the win­ter and cool in the sum­mer. The work­ing tem­per­a­ture range is: ‑42°F to 248°F (-44°C to 120°C)

Stay-tuned! I will attempt to attach this to the struc­ture and report when I’m suc­cess­ful!

Notes

9/2025 — Added a snap-on door stop made with a 3D print­er to pre­vent the doors from swing­ing too hard inward. Easy to drill and per­ma­nent­ly attach to PVC pipe if desired. Through­out the grow­ing sea­son, had plants inside then enclo­sure that were able to be pol­li­nat­ed no prob­lem. Doors made it easy to access plants. End­ed up mov­ing the corn plants inside after squir­rel rob­bery. The enclo­sure was a tad too short for the corn, so tas­sels extend­ed out, but suc­cess­ful­ly thwart­ed squir­rels that tried hard to get into the corn (they oblit­er­at­ed the corn tas­sels try­ing to pull the entire plant out). Suc­cess!! Just bought the poly­car­bon­ate pan­els for a new attempt at cre­at­ing a cold frame for the win­ter. Still have yet to attach actu­al door latch­es and am still using a ball

Ball Bungee Cord is easy to use
Door stop that just snaps onto the PVC. Can be per­ma­nent­ly fas­tened. This is not at the moment

August 2024 — It’s been almost a month since test phase start­ed, and squir­rels have left it com­plete­ly alone. No evi­dence of rot­ting, so good air­flow, pol­li­na­tors busi­ly doing their thing, vines climb­ing the cloth like a trel­lis… alto­geth­er very hap­py with its func­tion. Even the bungee cords per­form well and are easy to remove. Still have not secured hinges or installed latch­es… and I’m not sure I want to. It would make for a refined prod­uct, but the bungee cords work well.

August 2025 — Squir­rels robbed me of corn, so moved the pot into the enclo­sure. SUCCESS!!! First true test against the rodents. They des­per­ate­ly want­ed the corn, but could not get in. They even tried to pull the corn up through the top by yank­ing on the tas­sels. All that did was rip the tas­sels off the plant. They nev­er got inside! Yay!! It WORKS!!!

If I were to do it again, I would do sev­er­al things:

  • Buy hard­ware cloth that’s wide enough to not need so much over­lap. Like, one that can span from one side, to the back, and to the oth­er side. The top can be sep­a­rate.
  • If using the gal­va­nized steel wire method of attach­ment, then buy a Wire Twister Tool for Drill. Not only would that save tons of time, but phys­i­cal fatigue
  • Mea­sure the place­ment of the hinges before snap­ping them on
  • Paint it green or brown. White is so stark in the gar­den! Or if you have expend­able income, then buy For­mu­fit’s col­ored PVC
  • Fig­ure out a dif­fer­ent way to attach the hard­ware cloth (Ideas are all expen­sive yet remove­able: 2in Rub­ber Cable Clamps, 2 in Binder Rings, 6in Steel Wire Twist Bar­rel Key­chains, etc.)

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Poison Ivy, Poison Oak, Poison Sumac

writ­ten 6/1/2024, updat­ed 6/17/2024

Family Anacardiaceae

The Cashew/Sumac Fam­i­ly: Decid­u­ous trees and shrubs that pro­duce an oily or milky sap that can be high­ly poi­so­nous. Resin canals that exist in stems, leaves, and roots are found in all plants in the fam­i­ly. Their fruits are called dru­pes (stone fruit) where the fleshy part of the fruit sur­rounds a sin­gle shell which hous­es a seed

Com­mon Plants: Anac­ardi­um occi­den­tale (Cashew); Mangifera indi­ca (Man­go); Pista­cia vera (Pis­ta­chio); gen Cot­i­nus (Smoke Tree); gen Rhus (Sumac); gen Tox­i­co­den­dron (Lac­quer Tree, Poi­son Ivy, Poi­son Oak, Poi­son Sumac)

Note: The Tox­i­co­den­dron genus used to be lumped under Rhus. Tox­i­co — den­dron means tox­ic — tree.

Poison Ivy (Toxicodendron Radicans)

Native to most of the USA and south­ern Cana­da, it can be found in many types of envi­ron­ments from wet to dry, wood­lands, val­leys, clear­ings, road­sides, and back­yards. Poi­son ivy can exist as either a shrub (trail­ing, erect, or bushy) or a woody climb­ing vine with aer­i­al roots. It exhibits woody under­ground rhi­zomes. All aspects of the plant are poi­so­nous, con­tain­ing the per­sis­tent oily irri­tant, urush­i­ol. It is said that the vine ver­sion can cause 10–100 worse symp­toms than the shrub vari­ety

Size: 6 ft shrub or 62–150 ft climb­ing vine

Loca­tion: Var­i­ous areas from wet to dry, wood­land to ditch­es to back­yards

Uses: Food and shel­ter to ani­mals, birds, and insects

Iden­ti­fi­ca­tion: Leaflets of 3 where the mid­dle leaflet is longer than the oth­er 2. Leaves can be smooth, ser­rat­ed, or lobed. It has gray, red­dish stems, and glossy green leaves that turn vibrant red­dish yel­low in autumn.

Flow­ers and Fruit: Flow­ers are many and clus­tered; Fruit look like waxy, green­ish-white berries

Con­trol: Do NOT burn. Ful­ly cov­er the skin, pro­tect face and eyes, wear a hat. Remove any gear and cloth­ing that come into con­tact with the plant. Cut and remove roots of plant. Do NOT put in com­post pile. Rather, place in trash bag. Use of her­bi­cides on exposed roots/stumps.

Note how the mid­dle leaf is set out longer than the oth­er 2 leaves. This is char­ac­ter­is­tic of Poi­son Ivy

Here you can see the Poi­son Ivy inter­spersed amongst oth­er plants and vines. The red are Poi­son Ivy, the pur­ple is Eng­lish Ivy, and the blue are Vir­ginia Creep­er

There’s a mas­sive Poi­son Ivy prob­lem at this house. Can you spot it amongst all the oth­er plants here?

The vine vari­ety

Poison Oak (Toxicodendron pubescens)

Source same as below

Low-grow­ing shrub native to Cen­tral and East­ern USA, it is found in dry, sandy loca­tions in wood­lands and thick­ets. The word pubes­cens is latin for “cov­ered in hair,” and the plant is named such owing to the fine hairs on stems and leaves. The plant roots are rhi­zomes and often form dense colonies. Yel­low­ish-green flow­ers appear in the spring­time, result­ing in green-tan­nish white dru­pes (fruit) by late spring. All aspects of the plant are poi­so­nous, con­tain­ing the per­sis­tent oily irri­tant, urush­i­ol.

Size: 2–4 ft shrub on aver­age, can be as tall as 10ft

Loca­tion: Pre­fer dry, sun­ny areas. Wood­lands, thick­ets.

Uses: Food and shel­ter to ani­mals, birds, and insects

Iden­ti­fi­ca­tion: Alter­nat­ing green, lobed leaflets of 3 that crowd towards the end of the stem. The leaves look sim­i­lar to Oak tree leaves. Often, the mid­dle leaf is ful­ly lobed while the oth­er 2 are irreg­u­lar­ly lobed. Fine hairs cov­er the both the under­sides and upper parts of leaves as well as the stems. Tend to grow in clump­ing colonies. Leaves turn vibrant red­dish yel­low in autumn.

Flow­ers and Fruit: Flow­ers are hang­ing yel­low-green pan­i­cles (like rice or oats), and fruit are clus­ters of hairy green or tan­nish-white dru­pes that appear waxy

Con­trol: Do NOT burn. Ful­ly cov­er the skin, pro­tect face and eyes, wear a hat. Remove any gear and cloth­ing that come into con­tact with the plant. Cut and remove roots of plant. Do NOT put in com­post pile. Rather, place in trash bag. Use of her­bi­cides on exposed roots/stumps.

SOURCE. You can see how they grow in clumps. Notice how the 2 leaves are more irreg­u­lar­ly lobed than the mid­dle leaf which, like poi­son ivy is set out a lit­tle

Poison Sumac (Toxicodendron vernix)

Decid­u­ous small tree or shrub, it is native to east­ern and cen­tral-east­ern USA, and east­ern Cana­da. There are many look-alike plants. Typ­i­cal­ly, Poi­son Sumac will not grow in clumps and since it prefers wet areas, will not be found in dry loca­tions, nor will it be com­mon­ly found along road­sides and fields. While it is the least like­ly of the big 3 to be exposed to, effects of the urush­i­ol from Poi­son Sumac tend to be more severe than its Poi­son Oak and Ivy rel­a­tives.

Size: 5–25 ft tree with sparse, open form, or erect shrub

Loca­tion: Pre­fer marshy, bog­gy, wet loca­tions like river­side thick­ets, acidic soil, and full to part sun

Uses: Food and shel­ter to ani­mals, birds, and insects

Iden­ti­fi­ca­tion: Long, smooth, paired leaflets of 7–13, with a sin­gle leaflet at the end. Stems are red­dish, bark is smooth, gray-brown in col­or, and con­tain lenticels (small holes or lines on trunks that facil­i­tate gas exchange). Leaves turn red­dish yel­low in the autumn. Black sap

Flow­ers and Fruit: Green­ish-yel­low, 5‑petal flow­ers hang­ing in pan­i­cles (think rice and oats). Fruits are yel­low­ish-white dru­pes that hang loose­ly down­wards in clus­ters

Con­trol: Do NOT burn. Ful­ly cov­er the skin, pro­tect face and eyes, wear a hat. Remove any gear and cloth­ing that come into con­tact with the plant. Cut and remove roots of plant. Do NOT put in com­post pile. Rather, place in trash bag. Use of her­bi­cides on exposed roots/stumps.

SOURCE

Red­dish stem, leaflets end­ing in a sin­gle leaflet, gray­ish brown bark

Urushiol

Urush­i­ol is an ole­o­resin (oil + resin) found in the sap of plants in the fam­i­ly Anac­ar­diaceae. It has potent aller­genic prop­er­ties that affect most humans on con­tact, caus­ing urush­i­ol-induced con­tact der­mati­tis. The chem­i­cal is per­sis­tent and can last for months on cloth­ing and gear unless cleaned thor­ough­ly with soap + water or rub­bing alco­hol.

Its irri­tat­ing effects are only applic­a­ble to humans and a few pri­mates. Oth­er ani­mals like dogs, cats, deer, birds, etc. are not affect­ed. In fact, birds, deer, cat­tle, goats, and oth­er wildlife ben­e­fit and feed from the plants.

Sci­en­cy Stuff

ChemSpider 2D Image | Urushiol I | C21H36O2

Mol­e­c­u­lar For­mu­la: C21H36O2

Mol­e­c­u­lar Weight: 1584.4 g/mol

Aver­age Mass: 320.509 Da

Monoiso­topic Mass: 320.271515 Da

Source & Source

Toxicohedron Control — Before and After

Vine­gar Solu­tion

Pros: Nat­ur­al ingre­di­ents, no harsh chem­i­cals

Cons: Strong vine­gar smell, eas­i­ly washed off with water/rain, must use strong enough vine­gar con­cen­tra­tion, for best results use when sun­ny and hot, not sub­stan­tive and needs reap­pli­ca­tion

Reg­u­lar white vine­gar is only 5% acetic acid (and 95% water). You’re def­i­nite­ly going to want a high­er con­cen­tra­tion for this which can be found eas­i­ly in hard­ware stores up to 30% (usu­al­ly in the clean­ing and/or gar­den sec­tions), but you can get them even high­er online. I end­ed up buy­ing the 45% con­cen­trat­ed solu­tion (there’s even 75% or 95%). The gen­er­al for­mu­la is:

1 gal­lon Vine­gar (read the label on the con­cen­trat­ed ones for dilu­tion ratio)

1 Tbsp Dish­soap

1 cup Salt

Get your­self a nice pump sprayer like the one I use (can be any brand, I just hap­pened to have this)

You can also buy pre-mixed weed killer solu­tions like this one that I tried for reg­u­lar weeds. Notice that it’s 20% vine­gar which I found to be good for most weeds, but not enough for some tougher ones like crab grass.

Results of Vine­gar

1 week apart

2nd treat­ment

3rd treat­ment

RoundUp and sim­i­lar prod­ucts

Pros: Strong, sub­stan­tive, 30-minute rain ready

Cons: Envi­ron­men­tal per­sis­tence and down­stream effects, pos­si­ble health impli­ca­tions

I real­ly dis­like using RoundUp, but I real­ly don’t want to mess with Poi­son Ivy espe­cial­ly giv­en my ter­ri­ble reac­tion to it. Ever since the issue with gly­cophos­phates and can­cer, RoundUp has changed their for­mu­la­tions away from gly­cophos­phates. Also, RoundUp does­n’t care if it rains (30 minute rain ready) or if it’s sun­ny out­side. It’s like­ly more sub­stan­tive than vine­gar, too. Just make sure you use eye pro­tec­tion and a mask

Active ingre­di­ents:

Tri­clopyr, tri­ethy­lamine salt (0.122%)selec­tive her­bi­cide for broadleaf and woody plants

Flu­az­i­fop-P-butyl (0.097%)selec­tive post-emer­gent her­bi­cide

Diquat dibro­mide (0.073%)non-selec­tive algi­cide defo­liant, dessi­cant, and her­bi­cide

I chose the RoundUp specif­i­cal­ly for poi­son ivy. The built-in wand is rather sub­par. If you have one, it’s bet­ter to dump it into a pump sprayer and do it that way

Results of RoundUp

I was ini­tial­ly SHOCKED by how poor­ly RoundUp did, but now, look­ing at the image com­pare, I guess it did kind of work on spe­cif­ic plants. Did­n’t even touch the Eng­lish Ivy, but you can see wilt­ing and dry­ing of the actu­al poi­son ivy. Unfor­tu­nate­ly, they’re still there, just wilt­ed, so per­haps more treat­ments are in order.

Before

After

I drenched the holy heck out of this plant with the RoundUp. It did not work as well as I thought it would

Fun Facts

The name urush­i­ol comes from the Japan­ese name for the lac­quer tree, urushi.

In 2016 an inter­na­tion­al group of sci­en­tists dis­cov­ered that a mol­e­cule found abun­dant­ly in human skin, CD1a, is respon­si­ble for the reac­tion of humans to urush­i­ol con­tact. CD1a is expressed by Langer­hans cells in the skin. Langer­hans cells are part of the immune sys­tem, and the CD1a mol­e­cule it pro­duces acts by pre­sent­ing lipid anti­gens to T‑cells. Since urush­i­ol is an ole­o­resin, the now acti­vat­ed T‑cell releas­es cytokines, caus­ing both inflam­ma­tion and itch­i­ness. Inter­leukin-33 was iso­lat­ed as a key cytokine in mouse stud­ies, along with its recep­tor ST2 on the small to medi­um dor­sal root gan­glion neu­rons. By block­ing the inter­leukin-33/ST2 (IL-33/ST2) sig­nal­ing path­way, relief from the hor­ri­ble itch­i­ness of urush­i­ol can be attained. Inter­est­ing­ly, IL-33 is also asso­ci­at­ed with eczema/atopic der­mati­tis and asth­ma. With this infor­ma­tion, a vac­cine is cur­rent­ly in the works to help desen­si­tize the body to urush­i­ol’s potent irri­tat­ing effects.

Urush­i­ol is found in some mem­bers of the Anac­ar­diaceae fam­i­ly includ­ing poi­son ivy, oak, and sumac, as well as man­go skins, cashews, and pis­ta­chios

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