Poison Ivy, Poison Oak, Poison Sumac

writ­ten 6/1/2024, updat­ed 6/17/2024

Family Anacardiaceae

The Cashew/Sumac Fam­i­ly: Decid­u­ous trees and shrubs that pro­duce an oily or milky sap that can be high­ly poi­so­nous. Resin canals that exist in stems, leaves, and roots are found in all plants in the fam­i­ly. Their fruits are called dru­pes (stone fruit) where the fleshy part of the fruit sur­rounds a sin­gle shell which hous­es a seed

Com­mon Plants: Anac­ardi­um occi­den­tale (Cashew); Mangifera indi­ca (Man­go); Pista­cia vera (Pis­ta­chio); gen Cot­i­nus (Smoke Tree); gen Rhus (Sumac); gen Tox­i­co­den­dron (Lac­quer Tree, Poi­son Ivy, Poi­son Oak, Poi­son Sumac)

Note: The Tox­i­co­den­dron genus used to be lumped under Rhus. Tox­i­co — den­dron means tox­ic — tree.

Poison Ivy (Toxicodendron Radicans)

Native to most of the USA and south­ern Cana­da, it can be found in many types of envi­ron­ments from wet to dry, wood­lands, val­leys, clear­ings, road­sides, and back­yards. Poi­son ivy can exist as either a shrub (trail­ing, erect, or bushy) or a woody climb­ing vine with aer­i­al roots. It exhibits woody under­ground rhi­zomes. All aspects of the plant are poi­so­nous, con­tain­ing the per­sis­tent oily irri­tant, urush­i­ol. It is said that the vine ver­sion can cause 10–100 worse symp­toms than the shrub vari­ety

Size: 6 ft shrub or 62–150 ft climb­ing vine

Loca­tion: Var­i­ous areas from wet to dry, wood­land to ditch­es to back­yards

Uses: Food and shel­ter to ani­mals, birds, and insects

Iden­ti­fi­ca­tion: Leaflets of 3 where the mid­dle leaflet is longer than the oth­er 2. Leaves can be smooth, ser­rat­ed, or lobed. It has gray, red­dish stems, and glossy green leaves that turn vibrant red­dish yel­low in autumn.

Flow­ers and Fruit: Flow­ers are many and clus­tered; Fruit look like waxy, green­ish-white berries

Con­trol: Do NOT burn. Ful­ly cov­er the skin, pro­tect face and eyes, wear a hat. Remove any gear and cloth­ing that come into con­tact with the plant. Cut and remove roots of plant. Do NOT put in com­post pile. Rather, place in trash bag. Use of her­bi­cides on exposed roots/stumps.

Note how the mid­dle leaf is set out longer than the oth­er 2 leaves. This is char­ac­ter­is­tic of Poi­son Ivy

Here you can see the Poi­son Ivy inter­spersed amongst oth­er plants and vines. The red are Poi­son Ivy, the pur­ple is Eng­lish Ivy, and the blue are Vir­ginia Creep­er

There’s a mas­sive Poi­son Ivy prob­lem at this house. Can you spot it amongst all the oth­er plants here?

The vine vari­ety

Poison Oak (Toxicodendron pubescens)

Source same as below

Low-grow­ing shrub native to Cen­tral and East­ern USA, it is found in dry, sandy loca­tions in wood­lands and thick­ets. The word pubes­cens is latin for “cov­ered in hair,” and the plant is named such owing to the fine hairs on stems and leaves. The plant roots are rhi­zomes and often form dense colonies. Yel­low­ish-green flow­ers appear in the spring­time, result­ing in green-tan­nish white dru­pes (fruit) by late spring. All aspects of the plant are poi­so­nous, con­tain­ing the per­sis­tent oily irri­tant, urush­i­ol.

Size: 2–4 ft shrub on aver­age, can be as tall as 10ft

Loca­tion: Pre­fer dry, sun­ny areas. Wood­lands, thick­ets.

Uses: Food and shel­ter to ani­mals, birds, and insects

Iden­ti­fi­ca­tion: Alter­nat­ing green, lobed leaflets of 3 that crowd towards the end of the stem. The leaves look sim­i­lar to Oak tree leaves. Often, the mid­dle leaf is ful­ly lobed while the oth­er 2 are irreg­u­lar­ly lobed. Fine hairs cov­er the both the under­sides and upper parts of leaves as well as the stems. Tend to grow in clump­ing colonies. Leaves turn vibrant red­dish yel­low in autumn.

Flow­ers and Fruit: Flow­ers are hang­ing yel­low-green pan­i­cles (like rice or oats), and fruit are clus­ters of hairy green or tan­nish-white dru­pes that appear waxy

Con­trol: Do NOT burn. Ful­ly cov­er the skin, pro­tect face and eyes, wear a hat. Remove any gear and cloth­ing that come into con­tact with the plant. Cut and remove roots of plant. Do NOT put in com­post pile. Rather, place in trash bag. Use of her­bi­cides on exposed roots/stumps.

SOURCE. You can see how they grow in clumps. Notice how the 2 leaves are more irreg­u­lar­ly lobed than the mid­dle leaf which, like poi­son ivy is set out a lit­tle

Poison Sumac (Toxicodendron vernix)

Decid­u­ous small tree or shrub, it is native to east­ern and cen­tral-east­ern USA, and east­ern Cana­da. There are many look-alike plants. Typ­i­cal­ly, Poi­son Sumac will not grow in clumps and since it prefers wet areas, will not be found in dry loca­tions, nor will it be com­mon­ly found along road­sides and fields. While it is the least like­ly of the big 3 to be exposed to, effects of the urush­i­ol from Poi­son Sumac tend to be more severe than its Poi­son Oak and Ivy rel­a­tives.

Size: 5–25 ft tree with sparse, open form, or erect shrub

Loca­tion: Pre­fer marshy, bog­gy, wet loca­tions like river­side thick­ets, acidic soil, and full to part sun

Uses: Food and shel­ter to ani­mals, birds, and insects

Iden­ti­fi­ca­tion: Long, smooth, paired leaflets of 7–13, with a sin­gle leaflet at the end. Stems are red­dish, bark is smooth, gray-brown in col­or, and con­tain lenticels (small holes or lines on trunks that facil­i­tate gas exchange). Leaves turn red­dish yel­low in the autumn. Black sap

Flow­ers and Fruit: Green­ish-yel­low, 5‑petal flow­ers hang­ing in pan­i­cles (think rice and oats). Fruits are yel­low­ish-white dru­pes that hang loose­ly down­wards in clus­ters

Con­trol: Do NOT burn. Ful­ly cov­er the skin, pro­tect face and eyes, wear a hat. Remove any gear and cloth­ing that come into con­tact with the plant. Cut and remove roots of plant. Do NOT put in com­post pile. Rather, place in trash bag. Use of her­bi­cides on exposed roots/stumps.

SOURCE

Red­dish stem, leaflets end­ing in a sin­gle leaflet, gray­ish brown bark

Urushiol

Urush­i­ol is an ole­o­resin (oil + resin) found in the sap of plants in the fam­i­ly Anac­ar­diaceae. It has potent aller­genic prop­er­ties that affect most humans on con­tact, caus­ing urush­i­ol-induced con­tact der­mati­tis. The chem­i­cal is per­sis­tent and can last for months on cloth­ing and gear unless cleaned thor­ough­ly with soap + water or rub­bing alco­hol.

Its irri­tat­ing effects are only applic­a­ble to humans and a few pri­mates. Oth­er ani­mals like dogs, cats, deer, birds, etc. are not affect­ed. In fact, birds, deer, cat­tle, goats, and oth­er wildlife ben­e­fit and feed from the plants.

Sci­en­cy Stuff

ChemSpider 2D Image | Urushiol I | C21H36O2

Mol­e­c­u­lar For­mu­la: C21H36O2

Mol­e­c­u­lar Weight: 1584.4 g/mol

Aver­age Mass: 320.509 Da

Monoiso­topic Mass: 320.271515 Da

Source & Source

Toxicohedron Control — Before and After

Vine­gar Solu­tion

Pros: Nat­ur­al ingre­di­ents, no harsh chem­i­cals

Cons: Strong vine­gar smell, eas­i­ly washed off with water/rain, must use strong enough vine­gar con­cen­tra­tion, for best results use when sun­ny and hot, not sub­stan­tive and needs reap­pli­ca­tion

Reg­u­lar white vine­gar is only 5% acetic acid (and 95% water). You’re def­i­nite­ly going to want a high­er con­cen­tra­tion for this which can be found eas­i­ly in hard­ware stores up to 30% (usu­al­ly in the clean­ing and/or gar­den sec­tions), but you can get them even high­er online. I end­ed up buy­ing the 45% con­cen­trat­ed solu­tion (there’s even 75% or 95%). The gen­er­al for­mu­la is:

1 gal­lon Vine­gar (read the label on the con­cen­trat­ed ones for dilu­tion ratio)

1 Tbsp Dish­soap

1 cup Salt

Get your­self a nice pump sprayer like the one I use (can be any brand, I just hap­pened to have this)

You can also buy pre-mixed weed killer solu­tions like this one that I tried for reg­u­lar weeds. Notice that it’s 20% vine­gar which I found to be good for most weeds, but not enough for some tougher ones like crab grass.

Results of Vine­gar

1 week apart

2nd treat­ment

3rd treat­ment

RoundUp and sim­i­lar prod­ucts

Pros: Strong, sub­stan­tive, 30-minute rain ready

Cons: Envi­ron­men­tal per­sis­tence and down­stream effects, pos­si­ble health impli­ca­tions

I real­ly dis­like using RoundUp, but I real­ly don’t want to mess with Poi­son Ivy espe­cial­ly giv­en my ter­ri­ble reac­tion to it. Ever since the issue with gly­cophos­phates and can­cer, RoundUp has changed their for­mu­la­tions away from gly­cophos­phates. Also, RoundUp does­n’t care if it rains (30 minute rain ready) or if it’s sun­ny out­side. It’s like­ly more sub­stan­tive than vine­gar, too. Just make sure you use eye pro­tec­tion and a mask

Active ingre­di­ents:

Tri­clopyr, tri­ethy­lamine salt (0.122%) — selec­tive her­bi­cide for broadleaf and woody plants

Flu­az­i­fop-P-butyl (0.097%) — selec­tive post-emer­gent her­bi­cide

Diquat dibro­mide (0.073%) — non-selec­tive algi­cide defo­liant, dessi­cant, and her­bi­cide

I chose the RoundUp specif­i­cal­ly for poi­son ivy. The built-in wand is rather sub­par. If you have one, it’s bet­ter to dump it into a pump sprayer and do it that way

Results of RoundUp

I was ini­tial­ly SHOCKED by how poor­ly RoundUp did, but now, look­ing at the image com­pare, I guess it did kind of work on spe­cif­ic plants. Did­n’t even touch the Eng­lish Ivy, but you can see wilt­ing and dry­ing of the actu­al poi­son ivy. Unfor­tu­nate­ly, they’re still there, just wilt­ed, so per­haps more treat­ments are in order.

Before

After

I drenched the holy heck out of this plant with the RoundUp. It did not work as well as I thought it would

Fun Facts

The name urush­i­ol comes from the Japan­ese name for the lac­quer tree, urushi.

In 2016 an inter­na­tion­al group of sci­en­tists dis­cov­ered that a mol­e­cule found abun­dant­ly in human skin, CD1a, is respon­si­ble for the reac­tion of humans to urush­i­ol con­tact. CD1a is expressed by Langer­hans cells in the skin. Langer­hans cells are part of the immune sys­tem, and the CD1a mol­e­cule it pro­duces acts by pre­sent­ing lipid anti­gens to T‑cells. Since urush­i­ol is an ole­o­resin, the now acti­vat­ed T‑cell releas­es cytokines, caus­ing both inflam­ma­tion and itch­i­ness. Inter­leukin-33 was iso­lat­ed as a key cytokine in mouse stud­ies, along with its recep­tor ST2 on the small to medi­um dor­sal root gan­glion neu­rons. By block­ing the inter­leukin-33/ST2 (IL-33/ST2) sig­nal­ing path­way, relief from the hor­ri­ble itch­i­ness of urush­i­ol can be attained. Inter­est­ing­ly, IL-33 is also asso­ci­at­ed with eczema/atopic der­mati­tis and asth­ma. With this infor­ma­tion, a vac­cine is cur­rent­ly in the works to help desen­si­tize the body to urush­i­ol’s potent irri­tat­ing effects.

Urush­i­ol is found in some mem­bers of the Anac­ar­diaceae fam­i­ly includ­ing poi­son ivy, oak, and sumac, as well as man­go skins, cashews, and pis­ta­chios

Sources

Pizza: Dough + Baking

writ­ten 10/12/23, updat­ed 10/15/23

What

Piz­za dough recipe

Ingredients

*See notes for unit con­ver­sions and oth­er tips

3½ cups All-Pur­pose Flour (plus for knead­ing)

1 pack­et Active Dry Yeast (2¼ tsp)

1⅓ cups Warm Water (105 ‑115F/38–46C)

1 tsp Sug­ar

Hon­ey (option­al)

2 tsp Salt

2 Tbsp olive oil

Pinch of Corn­meal (option­al)

Top­pings of your choice

Sup­plies: Stand Mix­er, Work­ing Sur­face, Plas­tic Wrap/Kitchen Tow­el, Large Mix­ing Bowl, Wood­en Spoon, Mea­sur­ing Sup­plies, Some­where Warm, Oven

Time

5–10 min­utes yeast acti­va­tion

7–10 min­utes in Stand Mix­er

~1½ hours for dough to rise

15 min­utes for anoth­er dough rise after sep­a­ra­tion or punch down

10–15 min­utes to shape the piz­za + 5 min­utes for more rest­ing

10–15 min­utes to let olive oil sit

~10–20 min­utes to bake

Total: 2–3 hours

Steps

Yeast-leav­ened dough smells, looks, and feels sooo gooood

Making the Dough

  • In stand mix­er bowl or oth­er bowl, dis­solve sug­ar (1Tbsp), hon­ey (option­al) in warm water (1⅓ cups @ 105–115F)
  • Sprin­kle the dry active yeast (2¼ tsp or 1 pack­et), try­ing to not let it clump (you want them to dis­solve, and clump­ing won’t allow that)
  • Cov­er with plas­tic wrap or tow­el
  • After 5 min­utes, if not all the yeast has dis­solved, stir it a bit, and wait a lit­tle again for them to foam up (they’re alive!!)
  • Then add flour (3½ cups), salt (2 tsp), and olive oil (2 Tbsp)
  • Using the mix­ing pad­dle attach­ment, mix the ingre­di­ents until they com­bine
  • Swap out for the dough hook attach­ment (sticky! messy!), and now set it on low-medi­um for about 7–10 min­utes
  • Test the dough around the 7‑minute mark. It should be a lit­tle sticky/tacky and smooth-look­ing. If it’s too wet, sprin­kle on some more flour and keep going. It’ll be ready when you can poke it with your fin­ger and it bounces back
  • Light­ly grease a large bowl
  • Form the dough into a rough ball and place it in the bowl
  • Cov­er tight­ly with plas­tic wrap or tow­el and place it in a warm place for about 1.5 hours until it dou­bles in size (see notes for tips)
  • Remove the wrap/cover
  • With light­ly floured hands split the dough into how­ev­er many piz­zas you’re mak­ing (or just 1 big piz­za is cool)
  • Roll them into balls, cov­er, and let it/them rise again for about 15 min­utes to 2 hours

Pizza Time

  • Pre­heat your oven and stone/pan to 450F (high­est mine can go)
  • Start prep­ping the top­pings
  • Take your dough ball and using your fin­gers, start stretch­ing the dough from the cen­ter, out­wards. Get the thick­ness as thin or thick as you’d like (if it starts to resist, let it rest a lit­tle before con­tin­u­ing to the size you want)
  • Brush on olive oil and let it sit for 10ish min­utes to soak in
  • Work on oth­er dough balls in the mean­time
  • Option­al: Sprin­kle corn­meal on bot­tom of work­ing sur­face, piz­za pan, and/or piz­za peel (helps with trans­fer and pre­ven­tion of stick­ing, plus it adds some tex­ture to the crust if you like that)
  • Put those top­pings on!
  • Get it into the oven (watch out, the pan will be HOT)
  • Bake for 10–20 min­utes
  • It’ll be done when the crust is gold­en brown, and the top­pings are melt­ed

ENJOY!

This was smoked brisket and chick­en with fresh moz­zarel­la and home­made fresh toma­to sauce

Notes

  • Try not to pile too much stuff on the piz­za or it won’t cook even­ly
  • You can do stuffed crust piz­za eas­i­ly with some moz­zarel­la tucked under the crust edge!
  • Don’t over­work the dough unless you want it denser. Be gen­tle!
  • Bread flour will give the piz­za some chewi­ness. You can sub­sti­tute it 1:1
  • Piz­za dough needs 4 basics: Flour, Water, Yeast, and Salt. Salt and olive oil are option­al though, they help with brown­ing, slight­ly taste, and tex­ture, espe­cial­ly since home ovens can only get to around 450F (pro­fes­sion­al piz­za ovens cook at 600 — 850F)
  • Active Dry Yeast needs to rise at least twice, but Rapid Rise Yeast only needs to rise once
  • 12/25/23: used bread flour and acci­den­tal­ly used 2 Tbsp salt. Incred­i­bly salty

Gen­er­al­ly, Neapoli­tan piz­za is about 60–65% mois­ture (depends on the style. Detroit it 70–80% mois­ture). Here is some math, if you want to use a cus­tom amount of flour for your piz­za

Conversion

1g = 1.17ml

1ml = 0.00423 cups

1 cup flour = 125.16 grams (HERE)

Example

3.5 cup = 438.04 grams

438.04 grams ✖ 0.65 (65%) = 284.73 grams

284.73 grams ✖ 1.17ml = 333.13 ml

333.13ml ✖ 0.00423 cups = 1.41cups

Proof­ing Dough

65% mois­ture: 3.5 cups flour @ 1.41 cups water

60% mois­ture: 3.5 cups flour @ 1.30 cups water

If your house is cold and can’t find a warm place, you can try:

Cup of boiled water — Boil some water and pour it into a mug. Put your dough and the mug in a hard cool­er or a toast­er oven (I tried the microwave, not rec­om­mend­ed). This should give it the right envi­ron­ment to rise. May need to top off if it’s too cold. I used this with suc­cess when try­ing to make French bread

Oven — You can heat the oven up to 150F or so for about 30 min­utes, and then place the dough in the oven with the door propped with a wood­en spoon. After about 30 min­utes, close it to keep the heat in. I used this tech­nique though it was much hot­ter because I’d just fin­ished bak­ing pota­toes at 350F for an hour. I let it air out a bit, test­ed the tem­per­a­ture with a ther­mome­ter to make sure it was aroudn 200F (I fig­ured if it’s too hot, it’ll bake the dough), then propped the toast­er oven door open with a spoon. Dough rose amaz­ing­ly