Poison Ivy, Poison Oak, Poison Sumac

written 6/1/2024, updated 6/17/2024

Family Anacardiaceae

The Cashew/Sumac Family: Deciduous trees and shrubs that produce an oily or milky sap that can be highly poisonous. Resin canals that exist in stems, leaves, and roots are found in all plants in the family. Their fruits are called drupes (stone fruit) where the fleshy part of the fruit surrounds a single shell which houses a seed

Common Plants: Anacardium occidentale (Cashew); Mangifera indica (Mango); Pistacia vera (Pistachio); gen Cotinus (Smoke Tree); gen Rhus (Sumac); gen Toxicodendron (Lacquer Tree, Poison Ivy, Poison Oak, Poison Sumac)

Note: The Toxicodendron genus used to be lumped under Rhus. Toxico – dendron means toxic – tree.

Poison Ivy (Toxicodendron Radicans)

Native to most of the USA and southern Canada, it can be found in many types of environments from wet to dry, woodlands, valleys, clearings, roadsides, and backyards. Poison ivy can exist as either a shrub (trailing, erect, or bushy) or a woody climbing vine with aerial roots. It exhibits woody underground rhizomes. All aspects of the plant are poisonous, containing the persistent oily irritant, urushiol. It is said that the vine version can cause 10-100 worse symptoms than the shrub variety

Size: 6 ft shrub or 62-150 ft climbing vine

Location: Various areas from wet to dry, woodland to ditches to backyards

Uses: Food and shelter to animals, birds, and insects

Identification: Leaflets of 3 where the middle leaflet is longer than the other 2. Leaves can be smooth, serrated, or lobed. It has gray, reddish stems, and glossy green leaves that turn vibrant reddish yellow in autumn.

Flowers and Fruit: Flowers are many and clustered; Fruit look like waxy, greenish-white berries

Control: Do NOT burn. Fully cover the skin, protect face and eyes, wear a hat. Remove any gear and clothing that come into contact with the plant. Cut and remove roots of plant. Do NOT put in compost pile. Rather, place in trash bag. Use of herbicides on exposed roots/stumps.

Note how the middle leaf is set out longer than the other 2 leaves. This is characteristic of Poison Ivy

Here you can see the Poison Ivy interspersed amongst other plants and vines. The red are Poison Ivy, the purple is English Ivy, and the blue are Virginia Creeper

There’s a massive Poison Ivy problem at this house. Can you spot it amongst all the other plants here?

The vine variety

Poison Oak (Toxicodendron pubescens)

Source same as below

Low-growing shrub native to Central and Eastern USA, it is found in dry, sandy locations in woodlands and thickets. The word pubescens is latin for “covered in hair,” and the plant is named such owing to the fine hairs on stems and leaves. The plant roots are rhizomes and often form dense colonies. Yellowish-green flowers appear in the springtime, resulting in green-tannish white drupes (fruit) by late spring. All aspects of the plant are poisonous, containing the persistent oily irritant, urushiol.

Size: 2-4 ft shrub on average, can be as tall as 10ft

Location: Prefer dry, sunny areas. Woodlands, thickets.

Uses: Food and shelter to animals, birds, and insects

Identification: Alternating green, lobed leaflets of 3 that crowd towards the end of the stem. The leaves look similar to Oak tree leaves. Often, the middle leaf is fully lobed while the other 2 are irregularly lobed. Fine hairs cover the both the undersides and upper parts of leaves as well as the stems. Tend to grow in clumping colonies. Leaves turn vibrant reddish yellow in autumn.

Flowers and Fruit: Flowers are hanging yellow-green panicles (like rice or oats), and fruit are clusters of hairy green or tannish-white drupes that appear waxy

Control: Do NOT burn. Fully cover the skin, protect face and eyes, wear a hat. Remove any gear and clothing that come into contact with the plant. Cut and remove roots of plant. Do NOT put in compost pile. Rather, place in trash bag. Use of herbicides on exposed roots/stumps.

SOURCE. You can see how they grow in clumps. Notice how the 2 leaves are more irregularly lobed than the middle leaf which, like poison ivy is set out a little

Poison Sumac (Toxicodendron vernix)

Deciduous small tree or shrub, it is native to eastern and central-eastern USA, and eastern Canada. There are many look-alike plants. Typically, Poison Sumac will not grow in clumps and since it prefers wet areas, will not be found in dry locations, nor will it be commonly found along roadsides and fields. While it is the least likely of the big 3 to be exposed to, effects of the urushiol from Poison Sumac tend to be more severe than its Poison Oak and Ivy relatives.

Size: 5-25 ft tree with sparse, open form, or erect shrub

Location: Prefer marshy, boggy, wet locations like riverside thickets, acidic soil, and full to part sun

Uses: Food and shelter to animals, birds, and insects

Identification: Long, smooth, paired leaflets of 7-13, with a single leaflet at the end. Stems are reddish, bark is smooth, gray-brown in color, and contain lenticels (small holes or lines on trunks that facilitate gas exchange). Leaves turn reddish yellow in the autumn. Black sap

Flowers and Fruit: Greenish-yellow, 5-petal flowers hanging in panicles (think rice and oats). Fruits are yellowish-white drupes that hang loosely downwards in clusters

Control: Do NOT burn. Fully cover the skin, protect face and eyes, wear a hat. Remove any gear and clothing that come into contact with the plant. Cut and remove roots of plant. Do NOT put in compost pile. Rather, place in trash bag. Use of herbicides on exposed roots/stumps.

SOURCE

Reddish stem, leaflets ending in a single leaflet, grayish brown bark

Urushiol

Urushiol is an oleoresin (oil + resin) found in the sap of plants in the family Anacardiaceae. It has potent allergenic properties that affect most humans on contact, causing urushiol-induced contact dermatitis. The chemical is persistent and can last for months on clothing and gear unless cleaned thoroughly with soap + water or rubbing alcohol.

Its irritating effects are only applicable to humans and a few primates. Other animals like dogs, cats, deer, birds, etc. are not affected. In fact, birds, deer, cattle, goats, and other wildlife benefit and feed from the plants.

Sciency Stuff

ChemSpider 2D Image | Urushiol I | C21H36O2

Molecular Formula: C21H36O2

Molecular Weight: 1584.4 g/mol

Average Mass: 320.509 Da

Monoisotopic Mass: 320.271515 Da

Source & Source

Toxicohedron Control – Before and After

Vinegar Solution

Pros: Natural ingredients, no harsh chemicals

Cons: Strong vinegar smell, easily washed off with water/rain, must use strong enough vinegar concentration, for best results use when sunny and hot, not substantive and needs reapplication

Regular white vinegar is only 5% acetic acid (and 95% water). You’re definitely going to want a higher concentration for this which can be found easily in hardware stores up to 30% (usually in the cleaning and/or garden sections), but you can get them even higher online. I ended up buying the 45% concentrated solution (there’s even 75% or 95%). The general formula is:

1 gallon Vinegar (read the label on the concentrated ones for dilution ratio)

1 Tbsp Dishsoap

1 cup Salt

Get yourself a nice pump sprayer like the one I use (can be any brand, I just happened to have this)

You can also buy pre-mixed weed killer solutions like this one that I tried for regular weeds. Notice that it’s 20% vinegar which I found to be good for most weeds, but not enough for some tougher ones like crab grass.

Results of Vinegar

1 week apart

2nd treatment

3rd treatment

RoundUp and similar products

Pros: Strong, substantive, 30-minute rain ready

Cons: Environmental persistence and downstream effects, possible health implications

I really dislike using RoundUp, but I really don’t want to mess with Poison Ivy especially given my terrible reaction to it. Ever since the issue with glycophosphates and cancer, RoundUp has changed their formulations away from glycophosphates. Also, RoundUp doesn’t care if it rains (30 minute rain ready) or if it’s sunny outside. It’s likely more substantive than vinegar, too. Just make sure you use eye protection and a mask

Active ingredients:

Triclopyr, triethylamine salt (0.122%)selective herbicide for broadleaf and woody plants

Fluazifop-P-butyl (0.097%)selective post-emergent herbicide

Diquat dibromide (0.073%)non-selective algicide defoliant, dessicant, and herbicide

I chose the RoundUp specifically for poison ivy. The built-in wand is rather subpar. If you have one, it’s better to dump it into a pump sprayer and do it that way

Results of RoundUp

I was initially SHOCKED by how poorly RoundUp did, but now, looking at the image compare, I guess it did kind of work on specific plants. Didn’t even touch the English Ivy, but you can see wilting and drying of the actual poison ivy. Unfortunately, they’re still there, just wilted, so perhaps more treatments are in order.

Before

After

I drenched the holy heck out of this plant with the RoundUp. It did not work as well as I thought it would

Fun Facts

The name urushiol comes from the Japanese name for the lacquer tree, urushi.

In 2016 an international group of scientists discovered that a molecule found abundantly in human skin, CD1a, is responsible for the reaction of humans to urushiol contact. CD1a is expressed by Langerhans cells in the skin. Langerhans cells are part of the immune system, and the CD1a molecule it produces acts by presenting lipid antigens to T-cells. Since urushiol is an oleoresin, the now activated T-cell releases cytokines, causing both inflammation and itchiness. Interleukin-33 was isolated as a key cytokine in mouse studies, along with its receptor ST2 on the small to medium dorsal root ganglion neurons. By blocking the interleukin-33/ST2 (IL-33/ST2) signaling pathway, relief from the horrible itchiness of urushiol can be attained. Interestingly, IL-33 is also associated with eczema/atopic dermatitis and asthma. With this information, a vaccine is currently in the works to help desensitize the body to urushiol’s potent irritating effects.

Urushiol is found in some members of the Anacardiaceae family including poison ivy, oak, and sumac, as well as mango skins, cashews, and pistachios

Sources

DIY: Frame it All System Raised Bed Install Replacement

written 4/13/2024, updated 4/13/2024

Overview

What

Replacing an old, rotted, worn wood raised bed border with a food-safe composite board made from “38% HDPE plastic and 62% certified sustainably sourced wood fibers” which is equivalent to 97 single-use plastic bottles. Bug resistant, no rot.

Time and Effort

Dependent on condition of yard and slope

Time: 4 hours

Effort: Easy – Moderate

Materials and Cost

Garden Tools, Soil, Rock, Rubber Mallet, Gloves, Elbow Grease

Product: 4′ x 12′ Raised Garden Bed

Options: 2″ thickness, 11″ height, Weathered Wood color

Price: $429.99 – $64.49 (coupon) + free shipping = $365.50 (no tax)

  • In comparison, Paver wall retaining blocks like, Mini Beltis 3 in. H x 8 in. W x 4 in. D Ashland Concrete Retaining Wall Block, need 96 total blocks to get 2 courses, but only sits 6in high. Would need 4 courses of pavers to reach a similar 12″ height (compared to the 11″ of the Frame it All system).
  • Cost: 96 blocks x $1.38 = $132.48 (6″ height)
  • Cost: 192 blocks x $1.38 = $264.96 (12″ height)
  • Cheaper until you remember you need paver base, leveling sand, and to get almost 200 retaining blocks to your house. Then to heft them to the garden
  • Pros of paver wall blocks: Won’t break if hitting with lawn mowing equipment or other rocks, bug and animal proof, easier to work with uneven terrain, can be replaced easily or moved/changed or expanded

Installation

HERE is a link to the product page that includes the video walkthrough of installation

HERE is their official YouTube channel

Before and After

Preparation

Removing Rebar: the original, rotten wood was held in with at least 15 pieces of rebar of varying lengths. How do you remove rebar stuck in the ground? Turns out it’s really easy: Vise Grip Pliers.

Lock it on, give it several spins, then spin while pulling upwards. It really is as simple as that. Some pieces can be still stubborn, but just give it a few more spins, some back and forth, and nice steady pressure upwards.

Old pieces of wood and rebar removed, as well as some wayward patio pavers. Then laying out the composite boards, and the bulk of the entire job: leveling, fixing the bed plot, removing weeds and rocks, relocating any existing plants. Muscle and elbow grease, FTW

Assembling

Yay! Finally assembling the frame system, but don’t be fooled into ease! Now for the technical part.

There is one Stacking Bracket kit for every 2 boards. Making sure to alternate the up and down orientation of the brackets on either end, secure them to the boards using the little plug. Frame-it-All recommends either using your palms or a mallet to push it in, but you’re guaranteed to want to use a mallet unless your hands are made of something harder than mine (kept getting my palm flesh stuck between the plug and the bracket…) especially the more boards you’ll be securing.

I’d recommend attaching brackets to just enough boards for the bottom layer for now because installing the crossbars will mess things up if you try to do them all at once.

Following Frame-It-All’s instructions, it’s time to dry fit the lowest level together by placing the stakes in upside down. This is a super important step that you do not want to skip because it allows you level the pieces and see how it all lines up.

Similarly, it’s extremely important to dry fit the crossbeam stabilizing boards… I wish I’d paid more attention to this part because my pieces ended up juuuust a little too far in the final install and it was a pain to try and fix at the end (when you’re tired! Or at least I was with all of the leveling I had to do of the bed plot).

When you’re ready, it’s hammer time!

Even with it all hammered into the ground, this is the best time to double check your evenness and leveling. You can still lift the stakes and fix things. I had a lot of work to do in that department

And now on to the tricky part. It’s time to assemble the rest of the boards and brackets, but first, you have to understand the bracket orientation of the crossbars using the 4-Way Bracing Brackets before assembling the rest of the brackets to the boards

Dry fit all the boards again, and using the 4-Way Bracing Bracket kits, figure out the stabilizing crossbeam 3-way orientation. Attach the rest of the brackets to the boards after figuring it out. If you mess up, it’s not a big deal. Just use a flat-head screwdriver in the little notch and twist out the plugs

Now to set up the 3-way bracing brackets for the crossbar. You need 1 Regular Stacking Bracket, 1 Mid 4-Way Bracing Bracket, and 1 Top 4-Way Bracing Bracket.

Referencing the image above and ignoring the bottom level, the leftmost board has a Regular Stacking Bracket (bottom of stack), the crossbeam has a Mid 4-Way Bracing Bracket, and the rightmost board has the Top 4-Way Bracing Bracket (top of stack).

**However you end up orienting them, make sure the top of the cross-board is flush with the rest of the boards**

When you’re ready, hammer them all in! Keep in mind that hammering in the top might cause the bottom layer to sink into the ground a bit if you didn’t use any paver/rock base. You can just lift up from the bottom and fix it.

Yay!

Fix anything you need to, and then cover up the holes with the Finishing Caps!

Now, for some soil. I decided to add some rock underneath since the ground is basically all clay

ALL DONE. Sort of. I need some more soil.

Soil Quantity

In these images used 1.5cu. ft Garden Soil (Qty: 4) + 1 cu. ft Garden Soil (Qty: 4) + 0.5 cu. ft River Pebbles (Qty: 2) = 11cu. ft total

I think I still need another 8 bags of the 1.5 cu. ft Garden Soil before I’m satisfied, taking into account settling from rain and weather. Mulch will go on top

Total Volume: 12′ x 4′ x 0.92 ‘ = 44.16 cu ft

My ideal total garden soil volume: 22 cu. ft (remember the bed already had existing soil, plus rocks, and mulch will top it)

Instruction Manual

NOTE: Step 4 is only for 3 and 4 tier layouts