Poison Ivy, Poison Oak, Poison Sumac

writ­ten 6/1/2024, updat­ed 6/17/2024

Family Anacardiaceae

The Cashew/Sumac Fam­i­ly: Decid­u­ous trees and shrubs that pro­duce an oily or milky sap that can be high­ly poi­so­nous. Resin canals that exist in stems, leaves, and roots are found in all plants in the fam­i­ly. Their fruits are called dru­pes (stone fruit) where the fleshy part of the fruit sur­rounds a sin­gle shell which hous­es a seed

Com­mon Plants: Anac­ardi­um occi­den­tale (Cashew); Mangifera indi­ca (Man­go); Pista­cia vera (Pis­ta­chio); gen Cot­i­nus (Smoke Tree); gen Rhus (Sumac); gen Tox­i­co­den­dron (Lac­quer Tree, Poi­son Ivy, Poi­son Oak, Poi­son Sumac)

Note: The Tox­i­co­den­dron genus used to be lumped under Rhus. Tox­i­co — den­dron means tox­ic — tree.

Poison Ivy (Toxicodendron Radicans)

Native to most of the USA and south­ern Cana­da, it can be found in many types of envi­ron­ments from wet to dry, wood­lands, val­leys, clear­ings, road­sides, and back­yards. Poi­son ivy can exist as either a shrub (trail­ing, erect, or bushy) or a woody climb­ing vine with aer­i­al roots. It exhibits woody under­ground rhi­zomes. All aspects of the plant are poi­so­nous, con­tain­ing the per­sis­tent oily irri­tant, urush­i­ol. It is said that the vine ver­sion can cause 10–100 worse symp­toms than the shrub vari­ety

Size: 6 ft shrub or 62–150 ft climb­ing vine

Loca­tion: Var­i­ous areas from wet to dry, wood­land to ditch­es to back­yards

Uses: Food and shel­ter to ani­mals, birds, and insects

Iden­ti­fi­ca­tion: Leaflets of 3 where the mid­dle leaflet is longer than the oth­er 2. Leaves can be smooth, ser­rat­ed, or lobed. It has gray, red­dish stems, and glossy green leaves that turn vibrant red­dish yel­low in autumn.

Flow­ers and Fruit: Flow­ers are many and clus­tered; Fruit look like waxy, green­ish-white berries

Con­trol: Do NOT burn. Ful­ly cov­er the skin, pro­tect face and eyes, wear a hat. Remove any gear and cloth­ing that come into con­tact with the plant. Cut and remove roots of plant. Do NOT put in com­post pile. Rather, place in trash bag. Use of her­bi­cides on exposed roots/stumps.

Note how the mid­dle leaf is set out longer than the oth­er 2 leaves. This is char­ac­ter­is­tic of Poi­son Ivy

Here you can see the Poi­son Ivy inter­spersed amongst oth­er plants and vines. The red are Poi­son Ivy, the pur­ple is Eng­lish Ivy, and the blue are Vir­ginia Creep­er

There’s a mas­sive Poi­son Ivy prob­lem at this house. Can you spot it amongst all the oth­er plants here?

The vine vari­ety

Poison Oak (Toxicodendron pubescens)

Source same as below

Low-grow­ing shrub native to Cen­tral and East­ern USA, it is found in dry, sandy loca­tions in wood­lands and thick­ets. The word pubes­cens is latin for “cov­ered in hair,” and the plant is named such owing to the fine hairs on stems and leaves. The plant roots are rhi­zomes and often form dense colonies. Yel­low­ish-green flow­ers appear in the spring­time, result­ing in green-tan­nish white dru­pes (fruit) by late spring. All aspects of the plant are poi­so­nous, con­tain­ing the per­sis­tent oily irri­tant, urush­i­ol.

Size: 2–4 ft shrub on aver­age, can be as tall as 10ft

Loca­tion: Pre­fer dry, sun­ny areas. Wood­lands, thick­ets.

Uses: Food and shel­ter to ani­mals, birds, and insects

Iden­ti­fi­ca­tion: Alter­nat­ing green, lobed leaflets of 3 that crowd towards the end of the stem. The leaves look sim­i­lar to Oak tree leaves. Often, the mid­dle leaf is ful­ly lobed while the oth­er 2 are irreg­u­lar­ly lobed. Fine hairs cov­er the both the under­sides and upper parts of leaves as well as the stems. Tend to grow in clump­ing colonies. Leaves turn vibrant red­dish yel­low in autumn.

Flow­ers and Fruit: Flow­ers are hang­ing yel­low-green pan­i­cles (like rice or oats), and fruit are clus­ters of hairy green or tan­nish-white dru­pes that appear waxy

Con­trol: Do NOT burn. Ful­ly cov­er the skin, pro­tect face and eyes, wear a hat. Remove any gear and cloth­ing that come into con­tact with the plant. Cut and remove roots of plant. Do NOT put in com­post pile. Rather, place in trash bag. Use of her­bi­cides on exposed roots/stumps.

SOURCE. You can see how they grow in clumps. Notice how the 2 leaves are more irreg­u­lar­ly lobed than the mid­dle leaf which, like poi­son ivy is set out a lit­tle

Poison Sumac (Toxicodendron vernix)

Decid­u­ous small tree or shrub, it is native to east­ern and cen­tral-east­ern USA, and east­ern Cana­da. There are many look-alike plants. Typ­i­cal­ly, Poi­son Sumac will not grow in clumps and since it prefers wet areas, will not be found in dry loca­tions, nor will it be com­mon­ly found along road­sides and fields. While it is the least like­ly of the big 3 to be exposed to, effects of the urush­i­ol from Poi­son Sumac tend to be more severe than its Poi­son Oak and Ivy rel­a­tives.

Size: 5–25 ft tree with sparse, open form, or erect shrub

Loca­tion: Pre­fer marshy, bog­gy, wet loca­tions like river­side thick­ets, acidic soil, and full to part sun

Uses: Food and shel­ter to ani­mals, birds, and insects

Iden­ti­fi­ca­tion: Long, smooth, paired leaflets of 7–13, with a sin­gle leaflet at the end. Stems are red­dish, bark is smooth, gray-brown in col­or, and con­tain lenticels (small holes or lines on trunks that facil­i­tate gas exchange). Leaves turn red­dish yel­low in the autumn. Black sap

Flow­ers and Fruit: Green­ish-yel­low, 5‑petal flow­ers hang­ing in pan­i­cles (think rice and oats). Fruits are yel­low­ish-white dru­pes that hang loose­ly down­wards in clus­ters

Con­trol: Do NOT burn. Ful­ly cov­er the skin, pro­tect face and eyes, wear a hat. Remove any gear and cloth­ing that come into con­tact with the plant. Cut and remove roots of plant. Do NOT put in com­post pile. Rather, place in trash bag. Use of her­bi­cides on exposed roots/stumps.

SOURCE

Red­dish stem, leaflets end­ing in a sin­gle leaflet, gray­ish brown bark

Urushiol

Urush­i­ol is an ole­o­resin (oil + resin) found in the sap of plants in the fam­i­ly Anac­ar­diaceae. It has potent aller­genic prop­er­ties that affect most humans on con­tact, caus­ing urush­i­ol-induced con­tact der­mati­tis. The chem­i­cal is per­sis­tent and can last for months on cloth­ing and gear unless cleaned thor­ough­ly with soap + water or rub­bing alco­hol.

Its irri­tat­ing effects are only applic­a­ble to humans and a few pri­mates. Oth­er ani­mals like dogs, cats, deer, birds, etc. are not affect­ed. In fact, birds, deer, cat­tle, goats, and oth­er wildlife ben­e­fit and feed from the plants.

Sci­en­cy Stuff

ChemSpider 2D Image | Urushiol I | C21H36O2

Mol­e­c­u­lar For­mu­la: C21H36O2

Mol­e­c­u­lar Weight: 1584.4 g/mol

Aver­age Mass: 320.509 Da

Monoiso­topic Mass: 320.271515 Da

Source & Source

Toxicohedron Control — Before and After

Vine­gar Solu­tion

Pros: Nat­ur­al ingre­di­ents, no harsh chem­i­cals

Cons: Strong vine­gar smell, eas­i­ly washed off with water/rain, must use strong enough vine­gar con­cen­tra­tion, for best results use when sun­ny and hot, not sub­stan­tive and needs reap­pli­ca­tion

Reg­u­lar white vine­gar is only 5% acetic acid (and 95% water). You’re def­i­nite­ly going to want a high­er con­cen­tra­tion for this which can be found eas­i­ly in hard­ware stores up to 30% (usu­al­ly in the clean­ing and/or gar­den sec­tions), but you can get them even high­er online. I end­ed up buy­ing the 45% con­cen­trat­ed solu­tion (there’s even 75% or 95%). The gen­er­al for­mu­la is:

1 gal­lon Vine­gar (read the label on the con­cen­trat­ed ones for dilu­tion ratio)

1 Tbsp Dish­soap

1 cup Salt

Get your­self a nice pump sprayer like the one I use (can be any brand, I just hap­pened to have this)

You can also buy pre-mixed weed killer solu­tions like this one that I tried for reg­u­lar weeds. Notice that it’s 20% vine­gar which I found to be good for most weeds, but not enough for some tougher ones like crab grass.

Results of Vine­gar

1 week apart

2nd treat­ment

3rd treat­ment

RoundUp and sim­i­lar prod­ucts

Pros: Strong, sub­stan­tive, 30-minute rain ready

Cons: Envi­ron­men­tal per­sis­tence and down­stream effects, pos­si­ble health impli­ca­tions

I real­ly dis­like using RoundUp, but I real­ly don’t want to mess with Poi­son Ivy espe­cial­ly giv­en my ter­ri­ble reac­tion to it. Ever since the issue with gly­cophos­phates and can­cer, RoundUp has changed their for­mu­la­tions away from gly­cophos­phates. Also, RoundUp does­n’t care if it rains (30 minute rain ready) or if it’s sun­ny out­side. It’s like­ly more sub­stan­tive than vine­gar, too. Just make sure you use eye pro­tec­tion and a mask

Active ingre­di­ents:

Tri­clopyr, tri­ethy­lamine salt (0.122%)selec­tive her­bi­cide for broadleaf and woody plants

Flu­az­i­fop-P-butyl (0.097%)selec­tive post-emer­gent her­bi­cide

Diquat dibro­mide (0.073%)non-selec­tive algi­cide defo­liant, dessi­cant, and her­bi­cide

I chose the RoundUp specif­i­cal­ly for poi­son ivy. The built-in wand is rather sub­par. If you have one, it’s bet­ter to dump it into a pump sprayer and do it that way

Results of RoundUp

I was ini­tial­ly SHOCKED by how poor­ly RoundUp did, but now, look­ing at the image com­pare, I guess it did kind of work on spe­cif­ic plants. Did­n’t even touch the Eng­lish Ivy, but you can see wilt­ing and dry­ing of the actu­al poi­son ivy. Unfor­tu­nate­ly, they’re still there, just wilt­ed, so per­haps more treat­ments are in order.

Before

After

I drenched the holy heck out of this plant with the RoundUp. It did not work as well as I thought it would

Fun Facts

The name urush­i­ol comes from the Japan­ese name for the lac­quer tree, urushi.

In 2016 an inter­na­tion­al group of sci­en­tists dis­cov­ered that a mol­e­cule found abun­dant­ly in human skin, CD1a, is respon­si­ble for the reac­tion of humans to urush­i­ol con­tact. CD1a is expressed by Langer­hans cells in the skin. Langer­hans cells are part of the immune sys­tem, and the CD1a mol­e­cule it pro­duces acts by pre­sent­ing lipid anti­gens to T‑cells. Since urush­i­ol is an ole­o­resin, the now acti­vat­ed T‑cell releas­es cytokines, caus­ing both inflam­ma­tion and itch­i­ness. Inter­leukin-33 was iso­lat­ed as a key cytokine in mouse stud­ies, along with its recep­tor ST2 on the small to medi­um dor­sal root gan­glion neu­rons. By block­ing the inter­leukin-33/ST2 (IL-33/ST2) sig­nal­ing path­way, relief from the hor­ri­ble itch­i­ness of urush­i­ol can be attained. Inter­est­ing­ly, IL-33 is also asso­ci­at­ed with eczema/atopic der­mati­tis and asth­ma. With this infor­ma­tion, a vac­cine is cur­rent­ly in the works to help desen­si­tize the body to urush­i­ol’s potent irri­tat­ing effects.

Urush­i­ol is found in some mem­bers of the Anac­ar­diaceae fam­i­ly includ­ing poi­son ivy, oak, and sumac, as well as man­go skins, cashews, and pis­ta­chios

Sources

DIY: Frame it All System Raised Bed Install Replacement

writ­ten 4/13/2024, updat­ed 4/13/2024

Overview

What

Replac­ing an old, rot­ted, worn wood raised bed bor­der with a food-safe com­pos­ite board made from “38% HDPE plas­tic and 62% cer­ti­fied sus­tain­ably sourced wood fibers” which is equiv­a­lent to 97 sin­gle-use plas­tic bot­tles. Bug resis­tant, no rot.

Time and Effort

Depen­dent on con­di­tion of yard and slope

Time: 4 hours

Effort: Easy — Mod­er­ate

Materials and Cost

Gar­den Tools, Soil, Rock, Rub­ber Mal­let, Gloves, Elbow Grease

Prod­uct: 4′ x 12′ Raised Gar­den Bed

Options: 2″ thick­ness, 11″ height, Weath­ered Wood col­or

Price: $429.99 — $64.49 (coupon) + free ship­ping = $365.50 (no tax)

  • In com­par­i­son, Paver wall retain­ing blocks like, Mini Beltis 3 in. H x 8 in. W x 4 in. D Ash­land Con­crete Retain­ing Wall Block, need 96 total blocks to get 2 cours­es, but only sits 6in high. Would need 4 cours­es of pavers to reach a sim­i­lar 12″ height (com­pared to the 11″ of the Frame it All sys­tem).
  • Cost: 96 blocks x $1.38 = $132.48 (6″ height)
  • Cost: 192 blocks x $1.38 = $264.96 (12″ height)
  • Cheap­er until you remem­ber you need paver base, lev­el­ing sand, and to get almost 200 retain­ing blocks to your house. Then to heft them to the gar­den
  • Pros of paver wall blocks: Won’t break if hit­ting with lawn mow­ing equip­ment or oth­er rocks, bug and ani­mal proof, eas­i­er to work with uneven ter­rain, can be replaced eas­i­ly or moved/changed or expand­ed

Installation

HERE is a link to the prod­uct page that includes the video walk­through of instal­la­tion

HERE is their offi­cial YouTube chan­nel

Before and After

Preparation

Remov­ing Rebar: the orig­i­nal, rot­ten wood was held in with at least 15 pieces of rebar of vary­ing lengths. How do you remove rebar stuck in the ground? Turns out it’s real­ly easy: Vise Grip Pli­ers.

Lock it on, give it sev­er­al spins, then spin while pulling upwards. It real­ly is as sim­ple as that. Some pieces can be still stub­born, but just give it a few more spins, some back and forth, and nice steady pres­sure upwards.

Old pieces of wood and rebar removed, as well as some way­ward patio pavers. Then lay­ing out the com­pos­ite boards, and the bulk of the entire job: lev­el­ing, fix­ing the bed plot, remov­ing weeds and rocks, relo­cat­ing any exist­ing plants. Mus­cle and elbow grease, FTW

Assembling

Yay! Final­ly assem­bling the frame sys­tem, but don’t be fooled into ease! Now for the tech­ni­cal part.

There is one Stack­ing Brack­et kit for every 2 boards. Mak­ing sure to alter­nate the up and down ori­en­ta­tion of the brack­ets on either end, secure them to the boards using the lit­tle plug. Frame-it-All rec­om­mends either using your palms or a mal­let to push it in, but you’re guar­an­teed to want to use a mal­let unless your hands are made of some­thing hard­er than mine (kept get­ting my palm flesh stuck between the plug and the brack­et…) espe­cial­ly the more boards you’ll be secur­ing.

I’d rec­om­mend attach­ing brack­ets to just enough boards for the bot­tom lay­er for now because installing the cross­bars will mess things up if you try to do them all at once.

Fol­low­ing Frame-It-All’s instruc­tions, it’s time to dry fit the low­est lev­el togeth­er by plac­ing the stakes in upside down. This is a super impor­tant step that you do not want to skip because it allows you lev­el the pieces and see how it all lines up.

Sim­i­lar­ly, it’s extreme­ly impor­tant to dry fit the cross­beam sta­bi­liz­ing boards… I wish I’d paid more atten­tion to this part because my pieces end­ed up juu­u­ust a lit­tle too far in the final install and it was a pain to try and fix at the end (when you’re tired! Or at least I was with all of the lev­el­ing I had to do of the bed plot).

When you’re ready, it’s ham­mer time!

Even with it all ham­mered into the ground, this is the best time to dou­ble check your even­ness and lev­el­ing. You can still lift the stakes and fix things. I had a lot of work to do in that depart­ment

And now on to the tricky part. It’s time to assem­ble the rest of the boards and brack­ets, but first, you have to under­stand the brack­et ori­en­ta­tion of the cross­bars using the 4‑Way Brac­ing Brack­ets before assem­bling the rest of the brack­ets to the boards

Dry fit all the boards again, and using the 4‑Way Brac­ing Brack­et kits, fig­ure out the sta­bi­liz­ing cross­beam 3‑way ori­en­ta­tion. Attach the rest of the brack­ets to the boards after fig­ur­ing it out. If you mess up, it’s not a big deal. Just use a flat-head screw­driv­er in the lit­tle notch and twist out the plugs

Now to set up the 3‑way brac­ing brack­ets for the cross­bar. You need 1 Reg­u­lar Stack­ing Brack­et, 1 Mid 4‑Way Brac­ing Brack­et, and 1 Top 4‑Way Brac­ing Brack­et.

Ref­er­enc­ing the image above and ignor­ing the bot­tom lev­el, the left­most board has a Reg­u­lar Stack­ing Brack­et (bot­tom of stack), the cross­beam has a Mid 4‑Way Brac­ing Brack­et, and the right­most board has the Top 4‑Way Brac­ing Brack­et (top of stack).

**How­ev­er you end up ori­ent­ing them, make sure the top of the cross-board is flush with the rest of the boards**

When you’re ready, ham­mer them all in! Keep in mind that ham­mer­ing in the top might cause the bot­tom lay­er to sink into the ground a bit if you did­n’t use any paver/rock base. You can just lift up from the bot­tom and fix it.

Yay!

Fix any­thing you need to, and then cov­er up the holes with the Fin­ish­ing Caps!

Now, for some soil. I decid­ed to add some rock under­neath since the ground is basi­cal­ly all clay

ALL DONE. Sort of. I need some more soil.

Soil Quantity

In these images used 1.5cu. ft Gar­den Soil (Qty: 4) + 1 cu. ft Gar­den Soil (Qty: 4) + 0.5 cu. ft Riv­er Peb­bles (Qty: 2) = 11cu. ft total

I think I still need anoth­er 8 bags of the 1.5 cu. ft Gar­den Soil before I’m sat­is­fied, tak­ing into account set­tling from rain and weath­er. Mulch will go on top

Total Vol­ume: 12′ x 4′ x 0.92 ’ = 44.16 cu ft

My ide­al total gar­den soil vol­ume: 22 cu. ft (remem­ber the bed already had exist­ing soil, plus rocks, and mulch will top it)

Instruction Manual

NOTE: Step 4 is only for 3 and 4 tier lay­outs