DIY: Bed Canopy Frame with PVC

writ­ten 6/17/24, updat­ed 7/28/24

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Overview

What

Mak­ing a DIY canopy frame over a bed with PVC

Why

Cool­ing. To trap A/C from floor reg­is­ter under­neath a canopy dur­ing sum­mer. Room is top floor of a 3‑story town­house. Can be use­ful for trap­ping heat in the win­ter, too.

Time and Effort

1 per­son project, 2 would be help­ful

Time: 1 hour

Effort: Easy

Materials and Cost

4ft 1″ PVC Pipe (your choice of PVC size and height)

PVC Fit­tings (depends on how many con­nec­tions you want)

Canopy Mate­r­i­al

Fab­ric Fas­ten­ers (ties/clips/hooks/attachments)

Tem­po­rary Secure­ments (option­al, but rec­om­mend­ed)

$93.99 (20 piece)

$24.86 (14 total)

$39.99

$14.99 (25/pack)

$15.98 (Qty: 4)

Oth­er Sup­plies: Ratch­et­ing PVC Cut­ter ($14), Dri­ver, Drill Bits

Total Cost: $189.81

PVC Fittings

For this 6′ x 4′ x 6′ canopy, I bought 4′ long PVC at 1″ width (you can choose oth­er sizes and lengths) and used the ratch­et­ing PVC cut­ter to cut the pieces to 2′ to cre­ate 6′ lengths. T

Fit­tings need­ed for the 1″ PVC

FORMUFIT, a com­pa­ny that spe­cial­izes in fur­ni­ture-grade PVC sells all of these plus more options in many col­ors. 100% USA made. I bought every­thing but the 3‑way elbows at a local big box store in the PVC aisle because FOR­MU­FIT’s prod­ucts come in packs of 10.

  • 3‑Way Elbow (4 qty)
  • 90-Degree Elbow (4 qty)
  • Exter­nal Cou­pling (4 qty)
  • Stan­dard Tee (4 qty)

Option­al Foot­ers

I did­n’t do this, opt­ing for cross­bars favor­ing sta­bil­i­ty, but using a Reduc­er Cou­pling can work as pipe feet

Schematics

Here’s a hand-drawn dia­gram show­ing dimen­sions. This is 6′ x 4′ x 6′ (L x W x H) or 72″ x 48″ x 72″.

For ref­er­ence:

Bed Size (USA)Dimen­sions (L x W)
Twin75 in x 38 in (6¼ ft x 3⅙ ft)
Twin XL80 in x 38 in (6⅔ ft x 3⅙ ft)
Full75 in x 54 in (6¼ ft x 4½ ft)
Queen80 in x 60 in (6⅔ ft x 5 ft)
King80 in x 76 in (6⅔ ft x 6⅓ ft)
Cal­i­for­nia King84 in x 72 in (7 ft x 6 ft)

Why 4′ width when a twin bed is only 3⅙’ wide?

In this instance it’s to try and cap­ture the cool air blow­ing from the floor duct reg­is­ter, under the over­hang­ing side

Cutting the PVC

There are many options! And they most­ly depend on what’s avail­able in your house, how much you want to spend, how much time you mind spend­ing, what mess you want to make/clean up, and future use­ful­ness of any new­ly bought tools (or will it just sit in a box some­where for the rest of your life). Options include any­thing that cuts from man­u­al saws to pow­ered saws to ded­i­cat­ed PVC cut­ters.

Method 1

My first go-to was the Cord­less Mul­ti-tool I’d bought but had yet to use.

Clamped and ele­vat­ed
Cut­ting!
Whoops. Cut line and drawn line are not match­ing!
Messy and very rough edges

VERDICT: It will CUT. But it will also make a mess, cre­ate rough edges, time con­sum­ing, and requires clamps, and it took me a while to fig­ure out if there’s a best blade to use for PVC.

Method 2

I decid­ed to buy a Ratch­et­ing PVC Cut­ter for $14

Mea­sur­ing!
Line ‘er up!
Watch the ratch­et­ing mech­a­nism work
Super smooth edge and NO mess!

VERDICT: It will KEAL and lac­er­ate the PVC. This method is supe­ri­or. No set­ting up, no mess at all, smooth edges, and super-fast. No pow­er source

Assembly

Well. There’s not much to say here. You push the pipes into the fit­tings and form them into what­ev­er shape you want. The hard­est part is hold­ing them in place while you fit more. This is why a 2nd per­son could be use­ful. I did it by myself.

Fastening

Now, this is option­al, espe­cial­ly if your struc­ture will be a tem­po­rary one. Before putting them togeth­er, I mulled over this a lot. If the shape you formed is sol­id, you like­ly don’t need to secure the parts as they’re pret­ty tight just dry-fit­ted. How­ev­er, you have the option of cre­at­ing per­ma­nent or secure-yet-tem­po­rary bonds.

Permanent

Many choic­es out there, but THIS is your tra­di­tion­al plumb­ing primer and cement. Sim­ply fol­low the direc­tions and prime then cement.

Make sure to use in a well-ven­ti­lat­ed area and beware the pur­ple stain­ing of objects and flesh

Secure-Yet-Removable

There are dif­fer­ent meth­ods of doing this: You can use a screw, you can use wood dow­els, I read some­thing about using rub­ber hos­ing, heck you can use tape if you want to. I test­ed out a method that’s sim­i­lar to the oth­ers, just a lit­tle fanci­er.

I opt­ed to try Quick Release Pins. They’re a bit pricey for a project like this that would need many to ful­ly secure, and it was dif­fi­cult to find a size that would not be too long. In the end I only installed the 2 that I bought.

You also need a drill, drill bit, a stool, and a vac­u­um because it will make a mess.

Seems to fit!
Chose the drill bit
Drilling and mak­ing a mess
Hole through and through (drilled from both sides)
Insert­ing!
Aaaand it does­n’t actu­al­ly fit through it.

While the first pin could not ful­ly engage the hole (per­haps I drilled it at an angle instead of straight through), the sec­ond one did. Advice: err on the larg­er side when choos­ing a drill bit. I had to use the bit to ream out the open­ing from many angles just to get the pin to fit

Suc­cess!

The pin secures the pipe to the fit­ting, ensur­ing that it will not come apart. The only flaw in this is that if you use many fit­tings, that’s a lot of secure­ments! I chose the top cor­ners of the frame as it would pre­vent the ends from bow­ing out if the canopy mate­r­i­al end­ed up being too heavy for the frame.

Canopy

This part, I’m still not super hap­py about. It was hard to find any canopy curtain/top/fabric at all, let alone one that appealed to me. Aside from sewing one myself from a cho­sen, ide­al fab­ric (which I may end up doing in the future), I end­ed up choos­ing a can­vas tarp. My orig­i­nal idea was to use an old fit­ted sheet. I did­n’t con­sid­er how slip­pery the PVC is and after about 15 min­utes of wran­gling, I gave up. Plus, how would I secure the fit­ted sheet? The can­vas tarp was not only as thick as I want­ed it to be, but it came in a white col­or. If I want to trap cool air, I don’t want it to absorb heat as a dark­er col­or.

Assem­bly

8′ x 10′ seems large, does­n’t it? It kind of is… I thought that hav­ing the extra length would make it eas­i­er to drape and less like­ly to slip off. Also, that way, I can let the sides down as I please. Lat­er, I thought about spi­ders mak­ing webs in the folds…

Then a new prob­lem arose:

THE CORNERS

What to do? How to fas­ten? To this day, I don’t real­ly know the best option apart from cut­ting it and sewing it togeth­er (which would bring me back to square one with the canopy). I just kind of did some­thing.

Does it Work?

After all of that, does the canopy work? Does it trap cool air? I have to be hon­est, I’m not ful­ly sure! I think there is an improve­ment, yes, but it’s still not an end-all solu­tion. On the very hot days, I was hot and stuffy and found it hard to sleep. Low­er­ing the sides did make a dif­fer­ence, and I also end­ed up buy­ing an Air­tight Rip­stop Nylon Fab­ric think­ing that per­haps the tarp, which was made to be breath­able, was TOO breath­able.

HOWEVER. I do have a FLIR cam­era, so here are two inter­est­ing FLIR images (note: these images were tak­en before the addi­tion of the air­tight fab­ric on top):

A/C reg­is­ter behind the bed in the image (where the blue is)
A/C reg­is­ter to the RIGHT of the image

Blue is cool and yel­low is hot. The A/C reg­is­ter is on the right side of the right­most image. There IS a cool­ness to the canopy com­pared to the area out­side of the canopy. So, yes, in a word, yes, I think it does work.

VERDICT: Yes. It does trap cool air and main­tains cool­er tem­per­a­tures than the sur­round­ing air. Hav­ing a fan to fur­ther direct the air com­ing from the reg­is­ter might make it more effec­tive at cool­ing.

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Pizza: Dough + Baking

writ­ten 10/12/23, updat­ed 10/15/23

What

Piz­za dough recipe

Ingredients

*See notes for unit con­ver­sions and oth­er tips

3½ cups All-Pur­pose Flour (plus for knead­ing)

1 pack­et Active Dry Yeast (2¼ tsp)

1⅓ cups Warm Water (105 ‑115F/38–46C)

1 tsp Sug­ar

Hon­ey (option­al)

2 tsp Salt

2 Tbsp olive oil

Pinch of Corn­meal (option­al)

Top­pings of your choice

Sup­plies: Stand Mix­er, Work­ing Sur­face, Plas­tic Wrap/Kitchen Tow­el, Large Mix­ing Bowl, Wood­en Spoon, Mea­sur­ing Sup­plies, Some­where Warm, Oven

Time

5–10 min­utes yeast acti­va­tion

7–10 min­utes in Stand Mix­er

~1½ hours for dough to rise

15 min­utes for anoth­er dough rise after sep­a­ra­tion or punch down

10–15 min­utes to shape the piz­za + 5 min­utes for more rest­ing

10–15 min­utes to let olive oil sit

~10–20 min­utes to bake

Total: 2–3 hours

Steps

Yeast-leav­ened dough smells, looks, and feels sooo gooood

Making the Dough

  • In stand mix­er bowl or oth­er bowl, dis­solve sug­ar (1Tbsp), hon­ey (option­al) in warm water (1⅓ cups @ 105–115F)
  • Sprin­kle the dry active yeast (2¼ tsp or 1 pack­et), try­ing to not let it clump (you want them to dis­solve, and clump­ing won’t allow that)
  • Cov­er with plas­tic wrap or tow­el
  • After 5 min­utes, if not all the yeast has dis­solved, stir it a bit, and wait a lit­tle again for them to foam up (they’re alive!!)
  • Then add flour (3½ cups), salt (2 tsp), and olive oil (2 Tbsp)
  • Using the mix­ing pad­dle attach­ment, mix the ingre­di­ents until they com­bine
  • Swap out for the dough hook attach­ment (sticky! messy!), and now set it on low-medi­um for about 7–10 min­utes
  • Test the dough around the 7‑minute mark. It should be a lit­tle sticky/tacky and smooth-look­ing. If it’s too wet, sprin­kle on some more flour and keep going. It’ll be ready when you can poke it with your fin­ger and it bounces back
  • Light­ly grease a large bowl
  • Form the dough into a rough ball and place it in the bowl
  • Cov­er tight­ly with plas­tic wrap or tow­el and place it in a warm place for about 1.5 hours until it dou­bles in size (see notes for tips)
  • Remove the wrap/cover
  • With light­ly floured hands split the dough into how­ev­er many piz­zas you’re mak­ing (or just 1 big piz­za is cool)
  • Roll them into balls, cov­er, and let it/them rise again for about 15 min­utes to 2 hours

Pizza Time

  • Pre­heat your oven and stone/pan to 450F (high­est mine can go)
  • Start prep­ping the top­pings
  • Take your dough ball and using your fin­gers, start stretch­ing the dough from the cen­ter, out­wards. Get the thick­ness as thin or thick as you’d like (if it starts to resist, let it rest a lit­tle before con­tin­u­ing to the size you want)
  • Brush on olive oil and let it sit for 10ish min­utes to soak in
  • Work on oth­er dough balls in the mean­time
  • Option­al: Sprin­kle corn­meal on bot­tom of work­ing sur­face, piz­za pan, and/or piz­za peel (helps with trans­fer and pre­ven­tion of stick­ing, plus it adds some tex­ture to the crust if you like that)
  • Put those top­pings on!
  • Get it into the oven (watch out, the pan will be HOT)
  • Bake for 10–20 min­utes
  • It’ll be done when the crust is gold­en brown, and the top­pings are melt­ed

ENJOY!

This was smoked brisket and chick­en with fresh moz­zarel­la and home­made fresh toma­to sauce

Notes

  • Try not to pile too much stuff on the piz­za or it won’t cook even­ly
  • You can do stuffed crust piz­za eas­i­ly with some moz­zarel­la tucked under the crust edge!
  • Don’t over­work the dough unless you want it denser. Be gen­tle!
  • Bread flour will give the piz­za some chewi­ness. You can sub­sti­tute it 1:1
  • Piz­za dough needs 4 basics: Flour, Water, Yeast, and Salt. Salt and olive oil are option­al though, they help with brown­ing, slight­ly taste, and tex­ture, espe­cial­ly since home ovens can only get to around 450F (pro­fes­sion­al piz­za ovens cook at 600 — 850F)
  • Active Dry Yeast needs to rise at least twice, but Rapid Rise Yeast only needs to rise once
  • 12/25/23: used bread flour and acci­den­tal­ly used 2 Tbsp salt. Incred­i­bly salty

Gen­er­al­ly, Neapoli­tan piz­za is about 60–65% mois­ture (depends on the style. Detroit it 70–80% mois­ture). Here is some math, if you want to use a cus­tom amount of flour for your piz­za

Conversion

1g = 1.17ml

1ml = 0.00423 cups

1 cup flour = 125.16 grams (HERE)

Example

3.5 cup = 438.04 grams

438.04 grams ✖ 0.65 (65%) = 284.73 grams

284.73 grams ✖ 1.17ml = 333.13 ml

333.13ml ✖ 0.00423 cups = 1.41cups

Proof­ing Dough

65% mois­ture: 3.5 cups flour @ 1.41 cups water

60% mois­ture: 3.5 cups flour @ 1.30 cups water

If your house is cold and can’t find a warm place, you can try:

Cup of boiled water — Boil some water and pour it into a mug. Put your dough and the mug in a hard cool­er or a toast­er oven (I tried the microwave, not rec­om­mend­ed). This should give it the right envi­ron­ment to rise. May need to top off if it’s too cold. I used this with suc­cess when try­ing to make French bread

Oven — You can heat the oven up to 150F or so for about 30 min­utes, and then place the dough in the oven with the door propped with a wood­en spoon. After about 30 min­utes, close it to keep the heat in. I used this tech­nique though it was much hot­ter because I’d just fin­ished bak­ing pota­toes at 350F for an hour. I let it air out a bit, test­ed the tem­per­a­ture with a ther­mome­ter to make sure it was aroudn 200F (I fig­ured if it’s too hot, it’ll bake the dough), then propped the toast­er oven door open with a spoon. Dough rose amaz­ing­ly