DIY: PVC and Hardware Cloth Garden Plant Enclosure + Winter Cover

written 8/5/2024, updated 9/6/2025

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Overview

What

Temporary/disassembly-possible enclosure for patio and deck plants using PVC pipe and hardware cloth, featuring doors

Why

Thieving squirrels, birds, and deer yet still allowing pollinators, air, sun, and rain through

Time and Effort

Time: Several hours to 1 day (maybe more)

Difficulty: Moderate (depends on your equipment and material situation)

This is what started it all. My beautiful cantaloupe brazenly stolen and eaten right in front of my eyes by a crafty yet cute squirrel

Materials and Cost

All materials bought from Amazon and Home Depot

Material

1″ 4ft PVC Pipe

1″ 6ft PVC Pipe

16-gauge 2′ x 50′ Hardware Cloth Roll

200′ 16-gauge Galvanized Steel Wire

1″ PVC Hinges

1″ 90 Degree Elbow Fitting

1″ 3-Way Fitting

1″ Tee Fitting

Cabinet Hardware Pulls

Quantity

12 pipes

5 pipes

31ft

0.5 Roll

4 Hinges

8 Fittings

8 Fittings

2 Fittings

2 Pulls

TOTAL

Use Price

$80.40

$43.99

$24.80

$3.97

$36.68

$11.84

$26.00

$3.94

$4.38

$236.00

Owned Supplies:

Needle Nose Pliers

Linesman’s Pliers

Diagonal Cutting Pliers

Ratcheting PVC Cutter

Sharpie

Measuring Tape

Digital Calipers

Rubber Mallet

Bits/Driver

Screw Gauge

Planning and Schematics

Note: Drawings not to scale

Dimensions (L x W x H)

Outer Dimensions: 45″ x 22″ x 53″

Door Dimensions: 20.5″ x 49″

Fitting Dimensions

3-Way (Formufit brand – 8 qty)

1¼ ” + 1⅜” = 2⅝” length

1.25in + 1.375in = 2.625in

90 Degree (Charlotte Pipe brand – 8 qty)

1½” + 1⅛” = 2⅝”

1.5in + 1.125in = 2.625in

Tee (Charlotte Pipe brand – 2 qty)

⅞” + 1⅜” + ⅞” = 3⅛”

0.875in + 1.375in + 0.875in = 3.125in

Pipe Lengths

Remember that the ends of the pipes will fit into the fittings. All measurements are approximate. Actual item dimensions may vary

Outer Frame

42″ pipe (4 qty) – Length

19″ pipe (4 qty) – Width

50″ pipe (5 qty) – Height

Doors

17.5″pipe (4 qty) – Width

46.5″ pipe (4 qty) – Height

Overall Weight

1 in, 4 ft PVC pipe = 1.4lbs

Overall Weight of Enclosure: ~37lbs

Author’s Note

From start to finish, conception to assembly, this took a total of 3 days of time. Not counting waiting for parts, choosing parts, etc. The idea started way back in 2022 when I was having issues with squirrels stealing my tomatoes. I dreamed up and drew up plans, even going as far as to buying much of the materials to do it (originally out of wood and composite wood). However, the squirrels quit stealing my stuff until this year when my vegetables and fruit disappeared one by one. The final straw was the baby cantaloupe! WARTIME. Since it would be placed on the deck instead of the ground like the original plans intended, I needed a less weighty option and therefore chose PVC pipe. Armed with the original plans, I altered them. You can plan all you’d like, but doing is completely different! So started the 3 day-total-time journey (really, it took about a week waiting for all the pieces). Many, many calculations, miscalculations, frustrations, and even blood shedding later, I’ve – at this writing – mostly completed the project. Just a few minor tweaks and a test run before finalizing the hardware.

Overarching Question: Does it actually work???

As of August 2025: YES, IT WORKS successfully against thieving squirrels! They tried, hard with no success! (see Notes section for more)

Process

Gathering Supplies and Equipment

Needed: Handles, PVC pipe, Ratcheting pipe cutter, PVC fittings, hinges

Calculating, Measuring, Cutting, Assembling the Frame

Easily the most time-consuming part. Using the specialized PVC cutter and also a digital caliper saved a lot of time. Just setting up the frame is easy. The hard part is fitting the doors properly without creating too much of a gap (trying to prevent critter entry after all) around the door and frame while remembering that the fittings add more length to each side (calculations are done for you already in the schematics above). On top of that, there’s the consideration of hardware cloth size to make as the hardware cloth is best wrapping around the pipe. If this was wood, it would be easier to just create a removable frame around the outside of the cloth. Lots of re-measuring and re-cutting until I got it right (or close enough).

Use a rubber mallet to make sure the pieces are snug in the fittings

Hinges and Handles

This was more complicated than it needed to be. Hardware included with the (unthreaded) cheapo Handles are just too short to span the 1 in width of the PVC pipe. Without buying more or having to run out to a store, I delved into my giant box of random screws. Thankfully, I managed to find 4 that were both long enough and the right size (screw and thread gauges are useful). The Hinges snapped easily onto the PVC and mostly stay in place. And no wonder they stay in, because it gouges the plastic like no other if you remove and slide them around, so make sure you’ve measured where you want them first.

WARNING: Fasten any hinges before fastening handles so that the handles are oriented properly, or at least mark locations well. Because I waited a year, my handles are now in a wonky orientation

May 2025 – Hinge Permanence

Finally decided to screw in the hinges. I was way too lazy to take the entire cabinet apart for the winter, but it ended up enduring the winter just fine

Used an 11/64″ bit, lined up the hinges on the pipe, and went for it. Ended up using random screws that I happened to have, so they’re all mismatched and ended up rusting over the summer

Attaching the Hardware Cloth

This is 16-gauge hardware cloth which is hard to find in stores (at least where I am). It’s big enough to allow pollinators, water, and air into the enclosure, but small enough to thwart rodent and avian robbers. This was the limiting factor for size of the enclosure as the cloth I used was only 2ft wide (they sell them larger). And no, chicken wire is not recommended. Not only are the holes too large, but the wire is weak. Also, to note, because this enclosure sits on the deck, there is no need for bottom coverage. If I were to use the wooden schematics made to sit on the ground, then it would be fully enclosed by wood, or extra cloth would need to be sunk into the ground (1-2 ft deep) to deter diggers.

The exceedingly time-consuming and physically painful part of this was the issue of how to attach hardware cloth to PVC. Without spending a fortune, I decided on a roll of general-purpose galvanized steel wire and some pliers. However, given how long it took to secure everything (5 hours! In the baking sun and even through a short downpour), I’ve been thinking of a better attachment method (See NOTES section)

Twisty-ties from lettuce are nice and long
Navigating corners
Cut to bend
Overlapping pieces
Temporary twisty ties to hold two vertical pieces of hardware cloth together
Bending these under
3rd layer of overlap (top, back, and side)
Twisting the Galvanized Steel Wire with Pliers

After much trial and error, I found that this was the fastest way (at least by hand) to tie off the 16-gauge steel wire (perhaps I should have used something smaller)

Cut
Thread and orient
Grab with lineman’s pliers
Twist
Keep twisting (be careful, though, twisting in the same spot too fast and hard will snap it)
Tight

Fun fact: If you feel the metal after twisting, it’ll feel really hot

Grab some needle nose pliers and bend it away from poking people
Safer!

Keep Going Until Completion

What’s annoying is that tying off the hardware cloth with wire will cause random pockets where it bows out. Just keep on until everything is secure. Be aware that the ends of the hardware cloth and the steel wire are very sharp!

While the camera didn’t focus on it, cut out pieces to make room for the handles
Trimming excess of doors
Trimming ends to prevent scratching of feet or deck
Where doors meet. While doesn’t look ideal, it works because touching wire acts like a latch to hold them together
Hinges can still be manipulated since they’re not yet screwed in
Note the spacing between the hinge hardware. You can open or close the space just by twisting the hinge (hence why it hasn’t been secured until the end)

Complete!

Mostly. No locking hardware yet. Coming back to this 2 years after the fact, I’m still holding strong with just a ball bungee through the 2 handles.

Welcome home, cantaloupe plant!
3 total bungee cords to hold in place while in testing phase. Works really well
Given the space at the bottom where something can push its way in, all I did was place a spare paver brick and voila!

Winter Cover

The aim was to have it deconstructable, but I was too lazy, so I decided to use it as sort of a winterized greenhouseish thing. My region is Zone 7B USDA hardiness. Two options (so far) for winterization.

Plastic Sheeting

Suitable for mild winters with low duration freezing periods, about 20-40F.

Material

6 mil Greenhouse Plastic Sheeting 12′ x 25′ (much too large)

Zip Ties

Packing Tape (for corners)

Pictures!

Plastic Sheeting. I bought entirely too much. Probably needed half of that.
6 mil thickness
Zip tie securing and tape for the corners
Cut it off for neat appearance
Left openings around seams for ventilation and access
Poked a few drainage/vent holes in the top with a screwdriver

Plastic Sheeting Winterizing Results

2 months: hard freeze early December for 1-2 weeks, and it’s dipped as low as the teens. So far so good. The plants seem to be doing just fine in there. I have hard neck garlic, strawberry, my blueberry plant, and onions.

Post-Winter: For about 5ish years, the winter had been pretty mild. 2024-2025 winter was normal for this area which translates to periods of very cold and snow. Unfortunately, that meant that my plastic layers did NOT work well enough. If temperatures stay around 20-40F, then the plastic is fine. If there are hard freezes for extended periods of time, this is not good enough. All of my plants died except the strawberry which didn’t mind at all and looks amazing (in a 10-gallon fabric pot). The blueberry mostly died but finally started sprouting new shoots from the root late June 2025. I was disappointed and will update again this fall when I set up the new version of this using hard plastic walls instead of the sheeting. Stay tuned!

Twin-Wall Polycarbonate Sheet

4′ x 2′ x 0.24” Polycarbonate Green House Panels. They’re a rigid plastic sheeting that are shatterproof which supposedly allows them to withstand severe weather, and keeps the greenhouse both warm in the winter and cool in the summer. The working temperature range is: -42°F to 248°F (-44°C to 120°C)

Stay-tuned! I will attempt to attach this to the structure and report when I’m successful!

Notes

9/2025 – Added a snap-on door stop made with a 3D printer to prevent the doors from swinging too hard inward. Easy to drill and permanently attach to PVC pipe if desired. Throughout the growing season, had plants inside then enclosure that were able to be pollinated no problem. Doors made it easy to access plants. Ended up moving the corn plants inside after squirrel robbery. The enclosure was a tad too short for the corn, so tassels extended out, but successfully thwarted squirrels that tried hard to get into the corn (they obliterated the corn tassels trying to pull the entire plant out). Success!! Just bought the polycarbonate panels for a new attempt at creating a cold frame for the winter. Still have yet to attach actual door latches and am still using a ball

Ball Bungee Cord is easy to use
Door stop that just snaps onto the PVC. Can be permanently fastened. This is not at the moment

August 2024 – It’s been almost a month since test phase started, and squirrels have left it completely alone. No evidence of rotting, so good airflow, pollinators busily doing their thing, vines climbing the cloth like a trellis… altogether very happy with its function. Even the bungee cords perform well and are easy to remove. Still have not secured hinges or installed latches… and I’m not sure I want to. It would make for a refined product, but the bungee cords work well.

August 2025 – Squirrels robbed me of corn, so moved the pot into the enclosure. SUCCESS!!! First true test against the rodents. They desperately wanted the corn, but could not get in. They even tried to pull the corn up through the top by yanking on the tassels. All that did was rip the tassels off the plant. They never got inside! Yay!! It WORKS!!!

If I were to do it again, I would do several things:

  • Buy hardware cloth that’s wide enough to not need so much overlap. Like, one that can span from one side, to the back, and to the other side. The top can be separate.
  • If using the galvanized steel wire method of attachment, then buy a Wire Twister Tool for Drill. Not only would that save tons of time, but physical fatigue
  • Measure the placement of the hinges before snapping them on
  • Paint it green or brown. White is so stark in the garden! Or if you have expendable income, then buy Formufit’s colored PVC
  • Figure out a different way to attach the hardware cloth (Ideas are all expensive yet removeable: 2in Rubber Cable Clamps, 2 in Binder Rings, 6in Steel Wire Twist Barrel Keychains, etc.)

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DIY: Attaching a Folding Table to an Existing Bookshelf

written 10/9/23, updated 10/9/23

What: A DIY foldaway craft table attached to an existing bookshelf

Why: I have a very small space to work in. This way, when I need it, I have a flat surface to do craft things (sewing machine, cutter, drawing, small t-shirt press, etc), and when I don’t, I can just fold it down. No need for a separate folding card table, plus preserving shelf space

Supplies: Wood, Circular Saw, Wood Clamps, Worktable, Router, Paint, Paint Supplies, Sander, Screws, Hinges, Folding/Extendable Table Legs, Drill, Drill Bits, Screwdriver, Tape, Permanent Marker, Stud Finder, Measuring Tape, Ruler, Safety Equipment

Cost: $240.21 (all other supplies already owned)

ItemPrice
3/4in x 2ft x 4ft Maple Plywood$39.99
#12 Flat Undercut Screw Philips 1/2in length (25pk)$7.84
Diablo 7-1/4″ 40 Tooth Finishing Saw Blade, Diamond Knockout$16.24
Stainless Steel Folding, Telescoping Desk Legs, 35.4″ length w/screws (x2) $75.98
Reliabilt Black 6in Strap Hinge (x2)$9.56
6-tier Open Bookcase 9.3″D x 23.6″W x 70.9″H$79.99
8oz Behr Dynasty Interior Paint Sample Size$4.68
Everbilt Self Adhesive Felt Strip$5.93
Total$240.21

Complexity: Easy to Moderate (figuring out the hinge situation was the biggest headache)

Time: 2-3 weekends (1 day + a week to dry paint, 2ish weekends to gather materials, measure/calculate, and do it)

Reference Images

Process

I had to buy a bookcase to fit a very small, specific space right next to the closet so that the closet door could still open, meaning that the shelf has to be rather shallow. Because the shelf isn’t very expensive, though, the shelves’ thicknesses are thin and that has to be taken into consideration.

Wood

I chose Maple Plywood. Was thinking about MDF, but it was too flimsy, too heavy, and too difficult to utilize hardware with.

Once the piece of wood is obtained, perform measurements and calculations, mark them, and prepare a workspace to make necessary cuts. Make sure to avoid knots!

Learned that not all saw blades are created equal. Used a finishing blade on the circular saw for a smooth cut through the plywood. Taped off the edge to prevent splintering, and then set up a jig to control the cut line. To do that, use another, straight piece of wood clamped to the worktable where the circular saw guide will glide against.

Left: work setup, Middle: jig and taped off cut line, Right: Cut!!!

Tested the newly cut piece, found that it was still too long, measured again, and back to cutting! Same setup: tape, jig/guide.

Handle

After poring over lots of hardware, I didn’t like any of the offerings and they were surprisingly expensive, plus I only have 3/4″ thickness to work with. Then someone recommended just cutting out a hole as a handle. What a great idea, and it doesn’t cost anything because I already have a router (no jigsaw, which would have been even easier)!

Decided to use drill bits (stepping up sizes in succession to make the holes larger and bits easier to control), then spade bits (just be sure not to use too large of a spade bit. I did that and messed up the cut, hence the weird mistake on the middle hole. Should have just stuck with the 5/8 which made a hole bit enough to fit the router bit). Strong recommendation to mark on the UNDERSIDE of the wood. Thank goodness my spade bit booboo only affected the underside

Just trying to both remove some structure and widen the holes enough to allow the router in

When working with routers, BE SURE that the bit is ALL THE WAY IN. Mine kept flinging out because I didn’t make sure of that (actually, I simply forgot how to use it). Super dangerous! I highly recommend using a guide/jig for the router if you don’t have a router table.

Left: router bit all the way in; Center: jig for the router; Right: Almost done!

Done! Note how I cut on the underside of the wood
Paint

Ugh. I hate painting so much!

Recommended supplies: mini roller, roller tray, towels, tack cloth, sanding discs, sander, bench pucks (to elevate).

When considering paint, I wanted to be sure that it would be able to withstand some wear and tear, so I went with a nice paint. The sample size was perfect for only covering one side of the tabletop with 3 coats.

I really hate the sound of sanding wood

I messed up with the paint color. Tip: When color matching, DON’T USE YOUR PHONE PICTURES. The post-processing or lighting will mess it up and you’ll get the totally wrong color like I did. Thankfully, the shelf came with veneer stickers which I brought with me to paint match the 2nd time around.

Mistake:

Redo:

Much better

Behr’s Dynasty and Marquee paints are awesome

It takes over a week before the paint will quit being so sticky, especially if there are several thick coats. Apparently, it can take up to several months to cure all the way!

LEgs

It’s really hard to find legs for something like this. There’s always the option of a fold-out diagonal bracing (as seen in the reference images above), but I wanted dedicated legs since I’m planning on putting heavy items and pressure on it. Ended up finding a company off Amazon that allows you to choose a height and will even do custom orders. The one I chose telescopes and folds!

Unfortunately, they’re sent from China, so it took longer than I’d planned. The product was good quality. There ended up being more holes than screws… So, I just secured it until it seemed solid enough.

Steps: Measure, mark, awl, pilot hole (used tape to prevent punching through), install

Upper Left: had a bit and screw gauge which was super helpful; Center Top: Used an awl to help guide the drill bit and prevent slippage; Upper Right: Measured then taped off the drill bit to prevent myself from punching through to the other side of the table; Bottom Row: I’m not sure how many screws are necessary, so I just installed all that were supplied

Didn’t repaint the underside with the brown paint because why?
Hinges

Took me forever to choose a hinge. Logic might point in the direction of a piano hinge, but I figured that the 3/4″ board vs. 1/4″ shelf thickness might be a lot to weight and result in possible fracture, so decided on strap hinges to help distribute the weight and prevent possible breakage from repeated use. In retrospect, I wonder if a piano hinge would be better? It would certainly have been a much easier install. I also bought and considered support hinges on the sides though did not use them.

Most of my time during this project was calculating, measuring, and trying to use tape to help with visualizing the end result

Spent sooo much time trying to visualize and calculate things like strap hinge gap and clearance. This is why a piano hinge would have been way more straightforward

Hardware. What do you use to install on a 3/4″ piece of plywood? What if it punches through to the other side? Short screws are really hard to find. I ended up settling on #12 thread 3/4″ length flat head screws. 3/4″ length on 3/4″ thickness?? The metal hinge itself should give just enough buffer to prevent a punch-through.

Time to install the hinges to the tabletop. At some point, you have calculated as much as you can, so you just have to do it. I was incredibly nervous doing this. You can’t redo it after everything you’ve already done.

I had to turn to the internet to find the screws for the 1/4″ shelf. I got #12 gauge 1/2″ length screws. Same with the table side, the hope is that the hinge, again, will buffer enough to prevent a punch through

The plywood was too heavy for me to lift on my own, so I thought maybe laying the bookshelf on its side would help. It’s fine for the top hinge when lying down, but it ended up skewing the bottom hinge. The best bet would be to jig up some sort of support, find a helper, or better yet, find a table/chair that will hold the board up steadily and flat while you secure the hinges. Mine is off-kilter because I laid it on its side. Doggone it!!! I don’t recommend doing it this way.

Laid that shelf on its side to try and install the hinge straps. The little felt pieces you see on the underside are just adhesive felt strips that are cut to cushion the metal legs as its folded up against the wood

If you insist on using this method, then at least turn the bookshelf to the other side to help prevent skewing, and to not do it on carpet if possible. The problem is that not only is the plywood heavy, but so is the shelf. Trying to flip it onto the other side has a high chance of ripping out or breaking the already installed hinge. That’s why I still do not recommend this method, even if it’s doable. Just rig up a support for the table or find a helper. It’s a waste especially given how long it took to even get to this point of the project. Ugggh!

Wall anchoring

DON’T SKIP THIS STEP!!! Seriously!! The table is heavy compared to the bookshelf, so it WILL tip!

Just be sure that everything is level (I had to use a wood panel underneath plus cardboard box shims to make it level) and that the carpet (if your floor is carpet) isn’t impeding anything, and then use wall anchors! Find a stud or invest in some really nice drywall anchors. I’ve always used the E-Z Ancor brand and like them a lot.

Super solid!!

End Result

In the end, I chose not to use the support hinges I bought because it was too much work, too complex looking, and it seemed steady enough without it, especially with the shelf anchored to the wall. I have yet to try it out with any projects, but I will! Eventually!

Though I’m disappointed in the installation mistake, I am just happy to be done with this project that I thought would take be 2 weekends but ended up taking mover a month. Why? Weather (I try to do things outside since I lack a dedicated workshop), delivery wait times, messing up on the paint, and missing hardware.

For reference, the table sits about 36″ off the ground, the height of a bar-height table.

Project Images

The upper, unfinished wood pictures are when the wood was uncut. There are 3 open shelves above and 3 under the tabletop