I Have Skeeter Syndrome

Writ­ten 5/28/24, Updat­ed 8/19/24

Asian Tiger Mos­qui­to IMAGE SOURCE

Foreword

Hel­lo! I suf­fer from skeeter syn­drome! I’ve had it since I was a kid, and while mine can get pret­ty bad, my sis­ter has it worse than I do! I’ve had sev­er­al humdingers over the years well into my 20s. Then all of the sud­den in my 30s, they quit pop­ping up as much. In fact, a few years ago, I got — I’m NOT jok­ing — at least 100 mos­qui­to bites from play­ing with my dog at my grand­par­ents’ house with­out bug spray or long cloth­ing and not a sin­gle one of them got larg­er than a dime. They even cleared up with­in 4 days. I thought I was cured at least for the local mos­qui­toes. Leav­ing the area would net me some nasty ones, but none ever larg­er than about 3 inch­es in diam­e­ter. I quit wor­ry­ing about it until May of 2024 when chop­ping down some over­grown tree limbs blessed me with 4 bites from some mys­tery bugs (not ticks). All 4 of them blew up almost instant­ly and proved that I am not immune!

This post is to chron­i­cle my larg­er cas­es so that oth­ers don’t have to feel alone or just to sate some curios­i­ty.

Skeeter Syndrome

What is it?

Accord­ing to The Cleve­land Clin­ic Skeeter syn­drome is “a large local aller­gic reac­tion to mos­qui­to bites marked by sig­nif­i­cant inflam­ma­tion.” It’s a hyper­sen­si­tiv­i­ty reac­tion to the polypep­tides in the female mos­qui­to’s (males don’t bite) sali­va. In short, it’s when your body reacts severe­ly to a bug bite.

Symptoms

Large wheal forms with­in min­utes to hours of con­tact, with heat, swelling, red­ness, itch­ing, and pain that appears sim­i­lar to cel­luli­tis. It often pro­duces blis­ters around the hard bump of the bite site, inflamed lymph nodes, swollen joints, and can induce fevers/malaise. Large lesions may cause move­ment dif­fi­cul­ty.

**Stop read­ing and seek med­ical atten­tion imme­di­ate­ly if you expe­ri­ence dif­fi­cul­ty breath­ing, severe headache, nausea/vomiting, con­fu­sion, or unusu­al mus­cle weak­ness (espe­cial­ly if it’s only on one side of the body)**

Treatment
  • Oral and top­i­cal anti­his­t­a­mines (e.g. lorata­dine, cet­i­rizine, diphen­hy­dramine, etc.)
  • Oral and top­i­cal cor­ti­cos­teroids (e.g. pred­nisone, methyl­pred­nisolone, hydro­cor­ti­sone) for severe cas­es to reduce inflam­ma­tion
  • Over-the-counter lotions, soaks, and creams (e.g. calamine lotion, aloe gel, oat­meal baths, alu­minum acetate, etc.)
  • Cold packs
  • Pres­sure (not scratch­ing, just pres­sure, like tying some cloth around the wound)
  • Antibi­otics will NOT help an aller­gic reac­tion. Only use­ful if the wound (e.g. by scratch­ing) were opened and became infect­ed
Prevention
  • Bug Spray — Off Deep Woods works well for me
  • Elim­i­nate Stagnant/Standing Water — You can use the mos­qui­to pel­lets and/or aer­a­tion if you have a pond. Mov­ing water kills mos­qui­to lar­vae. They only need a lit­tle bit of water to repro­duce!
  • Wear Light Col­ored Cloth­ing — Mos­qui­toes can favor cer­tain col­ors, while not being fans of oth­er col­ors*
  • Wear Long Sleeved Clothes and Closed-Toed Shoes — beware any flap­py sleeves or that gap between your shirt and pants!
  • Avoid Per­fumes

*More on this at the end of the post

Does it Get Better? Or will it Always Be Like THAT?

It is under­stood that this type of reac­tion hap­pens when they indi­vid­ual comes in con­tact with a species of mos­qui­to that the body has not yet encoun­tered. That may explain why I had a peri­od of time where I was­n’t react­ing heav­i­ly to any­thing local, just out­side of the area.

My Memorable Cases — With Pictures

Stan­dard Process:

  1. Ini­tial bite
  2. Spread­ing of inflam­ma­tion, pos­si­bly sev­er­al lay­ers of expan­sion (usu­al­ly 2–3 for me)
  3. Pro­duc­tion of a small, raised bump that’s insane­ly itchy (inevitably, it pops from fric­tion or just on its own)
  4. 24–36 hours: THIS is where if any sign of headache, fever, and malaise occurs, SEEK MEDICAL ATTENTION
  5. Lymph nodes may become enlarged and itchy/hot
  6. Lesion cycles through weep­ing and hard­en­ing (some­times liq­uid, some­times gooey flu­id)
  7. 72 hours: the worst of the inflam­ma­tion and itchiness/pain is gone. Lesion has deflat­ed to a more man­age­able size
  8. Day 5: almost for­get about it. Min­i­mal itch­i­ness, flat lesion
  9. 3–4 weeks: returns with a vengeance. Goes through the heal­ing process again (inflam­ma­tion, weep­ing, itch­i­ness, mul­ti­ple scabs that shed over and over) for about 2 weeks
  10. Cycle repeats for sev­er­al months to years until final­ly the wound dis­ap­pears (I’ve had them around for a few years if I scratch them)

Normal Mosquito Bite Reaction

For Com­par­ison’s Sake

July 2024

*NOTE: Both loca­tions had After Bite admin­is­tered quick­ly after con­tact

Loca­tion: Right Arm

Min­utes After Con­tact

72 Hours

8 Days

Loca­tion: Back of Thigh

Min­utes After Con­tact

48 Hours

9 Days

Skeeter Syndrome Cases

June 2013

Loca­tion: Right Cheek

Bite on Cheek

Swollen Lymph Node in Neck

July 2013

Loca­tion: Left Tri­cep

This one was excit­ing because I’d nev­er had any of them get large enough for the ends to touch on the oth­er side of the limb. First time for every­thing! When they get large like this, it not only itch­es, but it hurts. It’s also real­ly heavy and you smack it on every­thing. Prob­a­bly should have seen a med­ical pro­fes­sion­al, but I did­n’t and just like the oth­ers the swelling went down with­in a week

Day 1 — 1 Hour

Day 2 — 24 Hours

Day 2 — 36 Hours

October 2018

Loca­tion: Upper Left Thigh

You can see how raised it got. You can also under­stand why a med­ical pro­fes­sion­al would mis­take it for cel­luli­tis, but it’s not. That will hap­pen, where it rais­es from being flat to the skin. The right image shows the ini­tial bite lesion (red), sec­ondary inflam­ma­tion (blue), and then ter­tiary inflam­ma­tion (yel­low). This par­tic­u­lar bite only expand­ed twice.

May 2024

Loca­tion: Arms

24 Hours

Right Fore­arm

Left Fore­arm

Left Tri­cep

48 Hours

Lines indi­cate growth (black, red, green, then black). Con­tact: 5⁄23; Before: 5⁄24; After: 5⁄25

Up Close of Blis­ter­ing and Weep­ing

The blis­ters are extra itchy and as the cher­ry on top, the heat com­ing from these lesions make it feel like you’re being microwaved over and over again as the skin is so flam­ing hot that it com­bats the cool­er air tem­per­a­ture. If you’re faced with heat whether from out­side or from a hot show­er, it gets even more itchy and painful, mov­ing from itchy to painful as the heat lev­el increas­es.

For this par­tic­u­lar case, they became so unbear­ably itchy that I went to see my PCP who pre­scribed a Medrol dose pack (methyl­pred­nisolone). I think I had a fever by the end of day 2 and over­all malaise which is not some­thing I’ve endured before, and that pushed me to seek help. By the time I got in to see them (72 hours post-con­tact) it was already start­ing to come down. What I did­n’t know at the time, was that brew­ing under­neath and in the same area was my first ever aller­gic reac­tion to poi­son ivy which end­ed up being incred­i­bly bad (that’s a dif­fer­ent post). So, were the two influ­enc­ing each oth­er? I don’t know.

10 Days Since Con­tact

At the 72-hour mark, the bites decreased in size and symp­toms dras­ti­cal­ly. Then again, it might have been because I had a more seri­ous issue to deal with (as you can see), but usu­al­ly after the major inflam­ma­tion goes down, you most­ly for­get that you have them

*Ignore the Poi­son Ivy lesions*

Resurgence/Healing

Here’s an up-close pic­ture of peel­ing

This is when it start­ed get­ting real­ly itchy, hot, and inflamed again. You can see how it gets red, then starts to bleed, weep (can weep to the point of soak­ing through bandaids), and scab on its own, then the skin starts to peel in lay­ers. Then the cycle keeps repeat­ing with the itch­ing, bleed­ing, scab­bing, peel­ing.

**This is where if you scratch it (because you’re going to want to, it’s so itchy), the cycle will keep going for a very long time, months, even pos­si­bly years. And there’s a high pos­si­bil­i­ty for it to get infect­ed as evi­denced by a red streak/line com­ing from the bite. So, DON’T SCRATCH IT!**

Loca­tion: Left Fore­arm

20 Days

24 Days

26 Days

28 Days (4 Weeks)

30 Days

35 Days

Day 42 (6 Weeks)

Day 49 (7 Weeks)

Day 105 (3.5 months)

August 2024

Loca­tion: Face Next to Ear with Lymph Node Involve­ment

24 Hours

48 Hours

72 Hours

5 Days

9 Days

Got this from rak­ing up years of dead leaves. It was the only part of me uncov­ered (fig­ures). Lymph node involve­ment with­in 24 hours, very painful to touch for about 6 days. Dimin­ished and asymp­to­matic by Day 9. Lesion spread behind ear in 72 hours, imped­ing hear­ing by par­tial ear canal occlu­sion due to inflam­ma­tion for 24 hours, con­tin­u­ous weep­ing by Day 5 and also peel­ing. Face lesions usu­al­ly heal quick­ly

The Science Behind Mosquito Bites

SOURCE

Accord­ing to researchers at the Uni­ver­si­ty of Wash­ing­ton:

Mos­qui­to species: Aedes aegyp­ti (aka the Yel­low Fever Mos­qui­to)

Col­or Attrac­tion: red, orange, black, and cyan

Col­or Deter­rents: green, pur­ple, blue, and white

  • Mos­qui­toes can smell CO2 (car­bon diox­ide)
  • Once they smell the CO2, then their visu­al sens­es acti­vate (like you smelling the aro­ma of good food while walk­ing down the street and then look­ing to see where it’s com­ing from)
  • With­out smelling the CO2, mos­qui­toes don’t care about humans much. It’s only when they catch the scent
  • Mos­qui­toes can smell up to 100ft away yet can only see about 20ft
  • CO2 can trav­el far dis­tances
  • Orange-red col­ors in the skin allow mos­qui­toes to locate a host
  • Mos­qui­to detec­tion sys­tem: Smell CO2, look for red col­or, detect heat, is that sweat? Oooo body vapors!
  • Study was con­duct­ed on 1.3 mil­lion mos­qui­toes in a large wind tun­nel which allowed for a con­trol­lable envi­ron­ment sim­u­la­tor
  • Con­clu­sion: by under­stand­ing mos­qui­to neu­ro­science then humans can turn them­selves vir­tu­al­ly invis­i­ble to mos­qui­toes

SOURCE

Researchers at Johns Hop­kins

Mos­qui­to species: Anophe­les gam­bi­ae (trans­mits malar­ia)

  • Mos­qui­toes can dis­crim­i­nate amongst mul­ti­ple peo­ple in an open area
  • Despite many dif­fer­ent com­plex odors, some peo­ple real­ly do attract mos­qui­toes more than oth­ers
  • Dif­fer­ent con­cen­tra­tions of 15 air­borne com­pounds pro­duced by sub­jects in the study seemed to attract mos­qui­toes more
  • Mos­qui­toes real­ly like car­boxylic acid (fat­ty acid class in sweat pro­duced in sebum and also by ben­e­fi­cial microbes on skin that smells like ran­cid but­ter or cheese), and ace­toin (pro­duced by skin microbes)
  • There­fore: skin micro­bio­me is impor­tant in attrac­tive­ness to skeeters
  • Researchers test­ed 4 soap brands’ abil­i­ty to pre­vent attrac­tion, where 3 of 4 seemed to ampli­fy attrac­tive­ness, but over­all, the results are not straight­for­ward
  • All soaps con­tained limonene, a known repel­lant, so the con­clu­sion is that it’s not nec­es­sar­i­ly the brand of soap but the con­cen­tra­tion of ingre­di­ent and how it inter­acts with an indi­vid­u­al’s skin chem­i­cals
  • More diverse micro­bio­mes tend to attract mos­qui­toes less than less-diverse micro­bio­mes
  • Mos­qui­toes have evolved over time to adapt to human inter­ven­tion as they rely heav­i­ly upon human blood to breed. For exam­ple, to over­come the use of bed nets, they have begun to feed ear­li­er in the day.
  • Con­clu­sion: mos­qui­toes have a com­plex sys­tem to iden­ti­fy humans that does­n’t’ rely on just one sig­nal path­way. Each human has a par­tic­u­lar, per­son­al odor and per­haps the key to pre­vent attrac­tion is find­ing what mix of repel­lents is best for the indi­vid­ual. DEET is still the best, and nat­ur­al repel­lents, while they work, are not as effec­tive and require repeat­ed reap­pli­ca­tions

DIY: Frame it All System Raised Bed Install Replacement

writ­ten 4/13/2024, updat­ed 4/13/2024

Overview

What

Replac­ing an old, rot­ted, worn wood raised bed bor­der with a food-safe com­pos­ite board made from “38% HDPE plas­tic and 62% cer­ti­fied sus­tain­ably sourced wood fibers” which is equiv­a­lent to 97 sin­gle-use plas­tic bot­tles. Bug resis­tant, no rot.

Time and Effort

Depen­dent on con­di­tion of yard and slope

Time: 4 hours

Effort: Easy — Mod­er­ate

Materials and Cost

Gar­den Tools, Soil, Rock, Rub­ber Mal­let, Gloves, Elbow Grease

Prod­uct: 4′ x 12′ Raised Gar­den Bed

Options: 2″ thick­ness, 11″ height, Weath­ered Wood col­or

Price: $429.99 — $64.49 (coupon) + free ship­ping = $365.50 (no tax)

  • In com­par­i­son, Paver wall retain­ing blocks like, Mini Beltis 3 in. H x 8 in. W x 4 in. D Ash­land Con­crete Retain­ing Wall Block, need 96 total blocks to get 2 cours­es, but only sits 6in high. Would need 4 cours­es of pavers to reach a sim­i­lar 12″ height (com­pared to the 11″ of the Frame it All sys­tem).
  • Cost: 96 blocks x $1.38 = $132.48 (6″ height)
  • Cost: 192 blocks x $1.38 = $264.96 (12″ height)
  • Cheap­er until you remem­ber you need paver base, lev­el­ing sand, and to get almost 200 retain­ing blocks to your house. Then to heft them to the gar­den
  • Pros of paver wall blocks: Won’t break if hit­ting with lawn mow­ing equip­ment or oth­er rocks, bug and ani­mal proof, eas­i­er to work with uneven ter­rain, can be replaced eas­i­ly or moved/changed or expand­ed

Installation

HERE is a link to the prod­uct page that includes the video walk­through of instal­la­tion

HERE is their offi­cial YouTube chan­nel

Before and After

Preparation

Remov­ing Rebar: the orig­i­nal, rot­ten wood was held in with at least 15 pieces of rebar of vary­ing lengths. How do you remove rebar stuck in the ground? Turns out it’s real­ly easy: Vise Grip Pli­ers.

Lock it on, give it sev­er­al spins, then spin while pulling upwards. It real­ly is as sim­ple as that. Some pieces can be still stub­born, but just give it a few more spins, some back and forth, and nice steady pres­sure upwards.

Old pieces of wood and rebar removed, as well as some way­ward patio pavers. Then lay­ing out the com­pos­ite boards, and the bulk of the entire job: lev­el­ing, fix­ing the bed plot, remov­ing weeds and rocks, relo­cat­ing any exist­ing plants. Mus­cle and elbow grease, FTW

Assembling

Yay! Final­ly assem­bling the frame sys­tem, but don’t be fooled into ease! Now for the tech­ni­cal part.

There is one Stack­ing Brack­et kit for every 2 boards. Mak­ing sure to alter­nate the up and down ori­en­ta­tion of the brack­ets on either end, secure them to the boards using the lit­tle plug. Frame-it-All rec­om­mends either using your palms or a mal­let to push it in, but you’re guar­an­teed to want to use a mal­let unless your hands are made of some­thing hard­er than mine (kept get­ting my palm flesh stuck between the plug and the brack­et…) espe­cial­ly the more boards you’ll be secur­ing.

I’d rec­om­mend attach­ing brack­ets to just enough boards for the bot­tom lay­er for now because installing the cross­bars will mess things up if you try to do them all at once.

Fol­low­ing Frame-It-All’s instruc­tions, it’s time to dry fit the low­est lev­el togeth­er by plac­ing the stakes in upside down. This is a super impor­tant step that you do not want to skip because it allows you lev­el the pieces and see how it all lines up.

Sim­i­lar­ly, it’s extreme­ly impor­tant to dry fit the cross­beam sta­bi­liz­ing boards… I wish I’d paid more atten­tion to this part because my pieces end­ed up juu­u­ust a lit­tle too far in the final install and it was a pain to try and fix at the end (when you’re tired! Or at least I was with all of the lev­el­ing I had to do of the bed plot).

When you’re ready, it’s ham­mer time!

Even with it all ham­mered into the ground, this is the best time to dou­ble check your even­ness and lev­el­ing. You can still lift the stakes and fix things. I had a lot of work to do in that depart­ment

And now on to the tricky part. It’s time to assem­ble the rest of the boards and brack­ets, but first, you have to under­stand the brack­et ori­en­ta­tion of the cross­bars using the 4‑Way Brac­ing Brack­ets before assem­bling the rest of the brack­ets to the boards

Dry fit all the boards again, and using the 4‑Way Brac­ing Brack­et kits, fig­ure out the sta­bi­liz­ing cross­beam 3‑way ori­en­ta­tion. Attach the rest of the brack­ets to the boards after fig­ur­ing it out. If you mess up, it’s not a big deal. Just use a flat-head screw­driv­er in the lit­tle notch and twist out the plugs

Now to set up the 3‑way brac­ing brack­ets for the cross­bar. You need 1 Reg­u­lar Stack­ing Brack­et, 1 Mid 4‑Way Brac­ing Brack­et, and 1 Top 4‑Way Brac­ing Brack­et.

Ref­er­enc­ing the image above and ignor­ing the bot­tom lev­el, the left­most board has a Reg­u­lar Stack­ing Brack­et (bot­tom of stack), the cross­beam has a Mid 4‑Way Brac­ing Brack­et, and the right­most board has the Top 4‑Way Brac­ing Brack­et (top of stack).

**How­ev­er you end up ori­ent­ing them, make sure the top of the cross-board is flush with the rest of the boards**

When you’re ready, ham­mer them all in! Keep in mind that ham­mer­ing in the top might cause the bot­tom lay­er to sink into the ground a bit if you did­n’t use any paver/rock base. You can just lift up from the bot­tom and fix it.

Yay!

Fix any­thing you need to, and then cov­er up the holes with the Fin­ish­ing Caps!

Now, for some soil. I decid­ed to add some rock under­neath since the ground is basi­cal­ly all clay

ALL DONE. Sort of. I need some more soil.

Soil Quantity

In these images used 1.5cu. ft Gar­den Soil (Qty: 4) + 1 cu. ft Gar­den Soil (Qty: 4) + 0.5 cu. ft Riv­er Peb­bles (Qty: 2) = 11cu. ft total

I think I still need anoth­er 8 bags of the 1.5 cu. ft Gar­den Soil before I’m sat­is­fied, tak­ing into account set­tling from rain and weath­er. Mulch will go on top

Total Vol­ume: 12′ x 4′ x 0.92 ’ = 44.16 cu ft

My ide­al total gar­den soil vol­ume: 22 cu. ft (remem­ber the bed already had exist­ing soil, plus rocks, and mulch will top it)

Instruction Manual

NOTE: Step 4 is only for 3 and 4 tier lay­outs