DIY: Portable AC Dual Hose Window Vent Mount

written 6/27/25, updated 6/27/25

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What

A do-it-yourself single or dual hose window mounting thing

Why

Had a portable AC unit and wanted to mount it to the window

Time and Effort

Time: ~1.5 hours

Effort: Easy-moderate

Materials and Cost

Material

Foamular XR 1″x2’x2′ Rigid Foam Board

HVAC Aluminum Foil Tape

Double Reflective Insulation 24″x10′

Cost

$9.97 (x2 for dual hose setup)

$9.88

$11.97

TOTAL: $41.79

Optional: Removeable Window Sealing Tape (~$10-12)

Note: as of this writing, a dual hose window kit on Amazon will cost you about $33.99; from Home Depot is $37.18. However, you can also buy foam inserts that fit into them for $35.99 because, apparently, the kits don’t keep out heat as well as you’d think.

Owned Supplies

Masking Tape

Painter’s Tape

Tape Measure

Sharpie

Scissors

Foam Knife

Utility Knife

Square

Vent Template

Process

Measurements

Orient the AC unit and figure out how hoses should be placed to figure out how much of the opening you’ll need to fill will the vent mount. Take your measurements which will tell you how much material is needed.

My window is 31″ x 58″ (W x H), with each opening about 28″. I’m working with an Ecoflow Wave 3 for which the hoses have 2 slightly different opening sizes. After orienting the machine and hoses for the space available, I knew that I needed the window to be open about as much as it can be.

NOTE: For a dual hose unit, try to place the exhaust hose higher than the intake hose since heat rises, and air under the hotter expelling air should be cooler. For a single hose unit, you won’t need to open the window as much

Materials

Gather any owned equipment, then procure necessary tools and materials (I ran out to Home Depot)

Note: My window has a screen, so I left it down and placed the vent hoses on the other side. If yours does not have a screen, it would probably be a good idea to factor in a mesh screen to prevent bugs entering the hoses when not in use. Products like Fiberglass Mesh Rolls, or Vent Mesh Rodent/Bird Screens are options.

Fitting

With supplies in hand, test the Rigid Foam Board on the window. Mine was best sitting inside the lip of the window jamb. If more material is needed, measure and mark with the Sharpie. Secure the foam board in place (either lower the window onto it, or use masking tape), then place each vent hose in its desired spot and trace with the Sharpie

Cutting

Time to make cuts! Depending on cutting location, make sure to put down a drop cloth, newspaper, or other covering for easy cleanup. The foam pieces will get everywhere

First off, I put together the main window panel by cutting the piece to make it whole using measurements (in my case about 8in). I used a Square and a Utility Knife to score both sides, then all that’s needed is a little bit of force to snap the piece off (I just used the edge of a chair for leverage)

Next are the holes! My Ecoflow happened to come with a Vent Hole Template, so I used Masking Tape to adhere that to each traced hole

I’m sure a jigsaw would be the easiest and cleanest way to accomplish this, but I wasn’t about to shell out another $200 for that (maybe at some point in the future).

So, I used a Utility Knife to cut the circular shape. Because the foam board was too thick for just the utility knife, I poked holes with a random tool (can be a screwdriver) and connected the lines with a Sharpie.

Then with the utility knife, I cut the round pattern and a cross pattern on either side to facilitate removal

At this point you can use any variety of methods to chip away at the foam (e.g. mallet, screwdriver, knife). I ended up using a Craft Knife to deepen the utility knife cuts all the way around, and it was excellent for smoothing out the holes

Mallet

Craft Knife

Super easy to trim any excess pieces this way

Assembly

Back upstairs! First up: making sure the main panel pieces fit into the window. Next, dry fit the hoses. Used the craft knife to make some adjustments.

Another dry fit of all pieces. Looks good!

Had the hoses oriented the wrong way at first

Now to connect the two pieces of the main panel with the HVAC Aluminum Foil Tape. I’ve never used that kind of tape before. It’s like putting on a vinyl where you have to peel away the backing. When attached, the hold feels extra strong, so be careful not to rush and mess it up.

After another dry fit

Exhaust above inlet because heat rises

Moving on: now to adhere the Double Reflective Insulation. This really is an optional thing, but I wanted to do this because manufacturer wording on the rigid foam boards notes that its only rated to 75F. Given the beating sun and 100F heat, I wanted something else to both block heat and afford a little more weather resistance to the panel.

Fun Note: The material is just like sunshades for a car. One of the favorite things I’ve ever bought are custom driver and passenger window shades for my car, and it literally uses the exact same material except with an edge liner to look pretty

To attach the insulator, use Masking or Painters’ Tape (painter’s is easier to remove) to adhere the material to the foam board, then cut to size. Then, use the HVAC Tape to secure it to the foam board.

Make sure you’re applying it to the proper side!

NOTE: This will add some width to the foam board, which isn’t necessarily a bad thing, but if it’s too tight, you may have to trim some off the foam. I left mine the way it was and just jammed it in there. It was a tight fit, but that works for sealing out weather and bugs. It is foam after all and will compress a little.

Cut the vent holes out with scissors. I left a little bit of excess material around the opening for a little more bug/weather barrier.

Left a lip on purpose
Hose dry fit

Later, I ended up securing each hole with 4 pieces of HVAC Tape because I realized that air movement might balloon out the space between the insulation and the foam board.

That little space between the foam and the insulator is just asking for air to flow into it, billowing things out
Taped it up

Finishing Up

We’re pretty much done at this point! Go ahead and place it all into the window, place all the hoses, and check out your handiwork!

You can see the window screen I left in place to help with bugs
Everything fits snugly

The only thing left to do is to seal the cracks around the foam board and the vent hoses.

I used Masking Tape for easy removal, but if you want something better, buy some Removable Window Sealing Tape (XFasten brand on Amazon is $11.99, appears to be based in Florida).

DONE!

Finished!
Outside view
When you want to remove it quickly, just pull the masking tape

Notes

  • The whole system works well, and removal is as easy as removing tape
  • Sound is a problem, though. I can hear everything outside. Like birds in the morning. When you’re getting your best sleep. I considered some soundproof paneling to put in front of it but then realized that I don’t use the unit too much unless there’s a heat wave. Not only that, but the panels are pretty expensive.
  • It also makes my room smell like an attic with all the outdoor smells. Perhaps it would be different if I’d used the Window Sealing Tape?

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DIY: Frame it All System Raised Bed Install Replacement

written 4/13/2024, updated 4/13/2024

Overview

What

Replacing an old, rotted, worn wood raised bed border with a food-safe composite board made from “38% HDPE plastic and 62% certified sustainably sourced wood fibers” which is equivalent to 97 single-use plastic bottles. Bug resistant, no rot.

Time and Effort

Dependent on condition of yard and slope

Time: 4 hours

Effort: Easy – Moderate

Materials and Cost

Garden Tools, Soil, Rock, Rubber Mallet, Gloves, Elbow Grease

Product: 4′ x 12′ Raised Garden Bed

Options: 2″ thickness, 11″ height, Weathered Wood color

Price: $429.99 – $64.49 (coupon) + free shipping = $365.50 (no tax)

  • In comparison, Paver wall retaining blocks like, Mini Beltis 3 in. H x 8 in. W x 4 in. D Ashland Concrete Retaining Wall Block, need 96 total blocks to get 2 courses, but only sits 6in high. Would need 4 courses of pavers to reach a similar 12″ height (compared to the 11″ of the Frame it All system).
  • Cost: 96 blocks x $1.38 = $132.48 (6″ height)
  • Cost: 192 blocks x $1.38 = $264.96 (12″ height)
  • Cheaper until you remember you need paver base, leveling sand, and to get almost 200 retaining blocks to your house. Then to heft them to the garden
  • Pros of paver wall blocks: Won’t break if hitting with lawn mowing equipment or other rocks, bug and animal proof, easier to work with uneven terrain, can be replaced easily or moved/changed or expanded

Installation

HERE is a link to the product page that includes the video walkthrough of installation

HERE is their official YouTube channel

Before and After

Preparation

Removing Rebar: the original, rotten wood was held in with at least 15 pieces of rebar of varying lengths. How do you remove rebar stuck in the ground? Turns out it’s really easy: Vise Grip Pliers.

Lock it on, give it several spins, then spin while pulling upwards. It really is as simple as that. Some pieces can be still stubborn, but just give it a few more spins, some back and forth, and nice steady pressure upwards.

Old pieces of wood and rebar removed, as well as some wayward patio pavers. Then laying out the composite boards, and the bulk of the entire job: leveling, fixing the bed plot, removing weeds and rocks, relocating any existing plants. Muscle and elbow grease, FTW

Assembling

Yay! Finally assembling the frame system, but don’t be fooled into ease! Now for the technical part.

There is one Stacking Bracket kit for every 2 boards. Making sure to alternate the up and down orientation of the brackets on either end, secure them to the boards using the little plug. Frame-it-All recommends either using your palms or a mallet to push it in, but you’re guaranteed to want to use a mallet unless your hands are made of something harder than mine (kept getting my palm flesh stuck between the plug and the bracket…) especially the more boards you’ll be securing.

I’d recommend attaching brackets to just enough boards for the bottom layer for now because installing the crossbars will mess things up if you try to do them all at once.

Following Frame-It-All’s instructions, it’s time to dry fit the lowest level together by placing the stakes in upside down. This is a super important step that you do not want to skip because it allows you level the pieces and see how it all lines up.

Similarly, it’s extremely important to dry fit the crossbeam stabilizing boards… I wish I’d paid more attention to this part because my pieces ended up juuuust a little too far in the final install and it was a pain to try and fix at the end (when you’re tired! Or at least I was with all of the leveling I had to do of the bed plot).

When you’re ready, it’s hammer time!

Even with it all hammered into the ground, this is the best time to double check your evenness and leveling. You can still lift the stakes and fix things. I had a lot of work to do in that department

And now on to the tricky part. It’s time to assemble the rest of the boards and brackets, but first, you have to understand the bracket orientation of the crossbars using the 4-Way Bracing Brackets before assembling the rest of the brackets to the boards

Dry fit all the boards again, and using the 4-Way Bracing Bracket kits, figure out the stabilizing crossbeam 3-way orientation. Attach the rest of the brackets to the boards after figuring it out. If you mess up, it’s not a big deal. Just use a flat-head screwdriver in the little notch and twist out the plugs

Now to set up the 3-way bracing brackets for the crossbar. You need 1 Regular Stacking Bracket, 1 Mid 4-Way Bracing Bracket, and 1 Top 4-Way Bracing Bracket.

Referencing the image above and ignoring the bottom level, the leftmost board has a Regular Stacking Bracket (bottom of stack), the crossbeam has a Mid 4-Way Bracing Bracket, and the rightmost board has the Top 4-Way Bracing Bracket (top of stack).

**However you end up orienting them, make sure the top of the cross-board is flush with the rest of the boards**

When you’re ready, hammer them all in! Keep in mind that hammering in the top might cause the bottom layer to sink into the ground a bit if you didn’t use any paver/rock base. You can just lift up from the bottom and fix it.

Yay!

Fix anything you need to, and then cover up the holes with the Finishing Caps!

Now, for some soil. I decided to add some rock underneath since the ground is basically all clay

ALL DONE. Sort of. I need some more soil.

Soil Quantity

In these images used 1.5cu. ft Garden Soil (Qty: 4) + 1 cu. ft Garden Soil (Qty: 4) + 0.5 cu. ft River Pebbles (Qty: 2) = 11cu. ft total

I think I still need another 8 bags of the 1.5 cu. ft Garden Soil before I’m satisfied, taking into account settling from rain and weather. Mulch will go on top

Total Volume: 12′ x 4′ x 0.92 ‘ = 44.16 cu ft

My ideal total garden soil volume: 22 cu. ft (remember the bed already had existing soil, plus rocks, and mulch will top it)

Instruction Manual

NOTE: Step 4 is only for 3 and 4 tier layouts