DIY: PVC and Hardware Cloth Garden Plant Enclosure + Winter Cover

written 8/5/2024, updated 9/6/2025

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Overview

What

Temporary/disassembly-possible enclosure for patio and deck plants using PVC pipe and hardware cloth, featuring doors

Why

Thieving squirrels, birds, and deer yet still allowing pollinators, air, sun, and rain through

Time and Effort

Time: Several hours to 1 day (maybe more)

Difficulty: Moderate (depends on your equipment and material situation)

This is what started it all. My beautiful cantaloupe brazenly stolen and eaten right in front of my eyes by a crafty yet cute squirrel

Materials and Cost

All materials bought from Amazon and Home Depot

Material

1″ 4ft PVC Pipe

1″ 6ft PVC Pipe

16-gauge 2′ x 50′ Hardware Cloth Roll

200′ 16-gauge Galvanized Steel Wire

1″ PVC Hinges

1″ 90 Degree Elbow Fitting

1″ 3-Way Fitting

1″ Tee Fitting

Cabinet Hardware Pulls

Quantity

12 pipes

5 pipes

31ft

0.5 Roll

4 Hinges

8 Fittings

8 Fittings

2 Fittings

2 Pulls

TOTAL

Use Price

$80.40

$43.99

$24.80

$3.97

$36.68

$11.84

$26.00

$3.94

$4.38

$236.00

Owned Supplies:

Needle Nose Pliers

Linesman’s Pliers

Diagonal Cutting Pliers

Ratcheting PVC Cutter

Sharpie

Measuring Tape

Digital Calipers

Rubber Mallet

Bits/Driver

Screw Gauge

Planning and Schematics

Note: Drawings not to scale

Dimensions (L x W x H)

Outer Dimensions: 45″ x 22″ x 53″

Door Dimensions: 20.5″ x 49″

Fitting Dimensions

3-Way (Formufit brand – 8 qty)

1¼ ” + 1⅜” = 2⅝” length

1.25in + 1.375in = 2.625in

90 Degree (Charlotte Pipe brand – 8 qty)

1½” + 1⅛” = 2⅝”

1.5in + 1.125in = 2.625in

Tee (Charlotte Pipe brand – 2 qty)

⅞” + 1⅜” + ⅞” = 3⅛”

0.875in + 1.375in + 0.875in = 3.125in

Pipe Lengths

Remember that the ends of the pipes will fit into the fittings. All measurements are approximate. Actual item dimensions may vary

Outer Frame

42″ pipe (4 qty) – Length

19″ pipe (4 qty) – Width

50″ pipe (5 qty) – Height

Doors

17.5″pipe (4 qty) – Width

46.5″ pipe (4 qty) – Height

Overall Weight

1 in, 4 ft PVC pipe = 1.4lbs

Overall Weight of Enclosure: ~37lbs

Author’s Note

From start to finish, conception to assembly, this took a total of 3 days of time. Not counting waiting for parts, choosing parts, etc. The idea started way back in 2022 when I was having issues with squirrels stealing my tomatoes. I dreamed up and drew up plans, even going as far as to buying much of the materials to do it (originally out of wood and composite wood). However, the squirrels quit stealing my stuff until this year when my vegetables and fruit disappeared one by one. The final straw was the baby cantaloupe! WARTIME. Since it would be placed on the deck instead of the ground like the original plans intended, I needed a less weighty option and therefore chose PVC pipe. Armed with the original plans, I altered them. You can plan all you’d like, but doing is completely different! So started the 3 day-total-time journey (really, it took about a week waiting for all the pieces). Many, many calculations, miscalculations, frustrations, and even blood shedding later, I’ve – at this writing – mostly completed the project. Just a few minor tweaks and a test run before finalizing the hardware.

Overarching Question: Does it actually work???

As of August 2025: YES, IT WORKS successfully against thieving squirrels! They tried, hard with no success! (see Notes section for more)

Process

Gathering Supplies and Equipment

Needed: Handles, PVC pipe, Ratcheting pipe cutter, PVC fittings, hinges

Calculating, Measuring, Cutting, Assembling the Frame

Easily the most time-consuming part. Using the specialized PVC cutter and also a digital caliper saved a lot of time. Just setting up the frame is easy. The hard part is fitting the doors properly without creating too much of a gap (trying to prevent critter entry after all) around the door and frame while remembering that the fittings add more length to each side (calculations are done for you already in the schematics above). On top of that, there’s the consideration of hardware cloth size to make as the hardware cloth is best wrapping around the pipe. If this was wood, it would be easier to just create a removable frame around the outside of the cloth. Lots of re-measuring and re-cutting until I got it right (or close enough).

Use a rubber mallet to make sure the pieces are snug in the fittings

Hinges and Handles

This was more complicated than it needed to be. Hardware included with the (unthreaded) cheapo Handles are just too short to span the 1 in width of the PVC pipe. Without buying more or having to run out to a store, I delved into my giant box of random screws. Thankfully, I managed to find 4 that were both long enough and the right size (screw and thread gauges are useful). The Hinges snapped easily onto the PVC and mostly stay in place. And no wonder they stay in, because it gouges the plastic like no other if you remove and slide them around, so make sure you’ve measured where you want them first.

WARNING: Fasten any hinges before fastening handles so that the handles are oriented properly, or at least mark locations well. Because I waited a year, my handles are now in a wonky orientation

May 2025 – Hinge Permanence

Finally decided to screw in the hinges. I was way too lazy to take the entire cabinet apart for the winter, but it ended up enduring the winter just fine

Used an 11/64″ bit, lined up the hinges on the pipe, and went for it. Ended up using random screws that I happened to have, so they’re all mismatched and ended up rusting over the summer

Attaching the Hardware Cloth

This is 16-gauge hardware cloth which is hard to find in stores (at least where I am). It’s big enough to allow pollinators, water, and air into the enclosure, but small enough to thwart rodent and avian robbers. This was the limiting factor for size of the enclosure as the cloth I used was only 2ft wide (they sell them larger). And no, chicken wire is not recommended. Not only are the holes too large, but the wire is weak. Also, to note, because this enclosure sits on the deck, there is no need for bottom coverage. If I were to use the wooden schematics made to sit on the ground, then it would be fully enclosed by wood, or extra cloth would need to be sunk into the ground (1-2 ft deep) to deter diggers.

The exceedingly time-consuming and physically painful part of this was the issue of how to attach hardware cloth to PVC. Without spending a fortune, I decided on a roll of general-purpose galvanized steel wire and some pliers. However, given how long it took to secure everything (5 hours! In the baking sun and even through a short downpour), I’ve been thinking of a better attachment method (See NOTES section)

Twisty-ties from lettuce are nice and long
Navigating corners
Cut to bend
Overlapping pieces
Temporary twisty ties to hold two vertical pieces of hardware cloth together
Bending these under
3rd layer of overlap (top, back, and side)
Twisting the Galvanized Steel Wire with Pliers

After much trial and error, I found that this was the fastest way (at least by hand) to tie off the 16-gauge steel wire (perhaps I should have used something smaller)

Cut
Thread and orient
Grab with lineman’s pliers
Twist
Keep twisting (be careful, though, twisting in the same spot too fast and hard will snap it)
Tight

Fun fact: If you feel the metal after twisting, it’ll feel really hot

Grab some needle nose pliers and bend it away from poking people
Safer!

Keep Going Until Completion

What’s annoying is that tying off the hardware cloth with wire will cause random pockets where it bows out. Just keep on until everything is secure. Be aware that the ends of the hardware cloth and the steel wire are very sharp!

While the camera didn’t focus on it, cut out pieces to make room for the handles
Trimming excess of doors
Trimming ends to prevent scratching of feet or deck
Where doors meet. While doesn’t look ideal, it works because touching wire acts like a latch to hold them together
Hinges can still be manipulated since they’re not yet screwed in
Note the spacing between the hinge hardware. You can open or close the space just by twisting the hinge (hence why it hasn’t been secured until the end)

Complete!

Mostly. No locking hardware yet. Coming back to this 2 years after the fact, I’m still holding strong with just a ball bungee through the 2 handles.

Welcome home, cantaloupe plant!
3 total bungee cords to hold in place while in testing phase. Works really well
Given the space at the bottom where something can push its way in, all I did was place a spare paver brick and voila!

Winter Cover

The aim was to have it deconstructable, but I was too lazy, so I decided to use it as sort of a winterized greenhouseish thing. My region is Zone 7B USDA hardiness. Two options (so far) for winterization.

Plastic Sheeting

Suitable for mild winters with low duration freezing periods, about 20-40F.

Material

6 mil Greenhouse Plastic Sheeting 12′ x 25′ (much too large)

Zip Ties

Packing Tape (for corners)

Pictures!

Plastic Sheeting. I bought entirely too much. Probably needed half of that.
6 mil thickness
Zip tie securing and tape for the corners
Cut it off for neat appearance
Left openings around seams for ventilation and access
Poked a few drainage/vent holes in the top with a screwdriver

Plastic Sheeting Winterizing Results

2 months: hard freeze early December for 1-2 weeks, and it’s dipped as low as the teens. So far so good. The plants seem to be doing just fine in there. I have hard neck garlic, strawberry, my blueberry plant, and onions.

Post-Winter: For about 5ish years, the winter had been pretty mild. 2024-2025 winter was normal for this area which translates to periods of very cold and snow. Unfortunately, that meant that my plastic layers did NOT work well enough. If temperatures stay around 20-40F, then the plastic is fine. If there are hard freezes for extended periods of time, this is not good enough. All of my plants died except the strawberry which didn’t mind at all and looks amazing (in a 10-gallon fabric pot). The blueberry mostly died but finally started sprouting new shoots from the root late June 2025. I was disappointed and will update again this fall when I set up the new version of this using hard plastic walls instead of the sheeting. Stay tuned!

Twin-Wall Polycarbonate Sheet

4′ x 2′ x 0.24” Polycarbonate Green House Panels. They’re a rigid plastic sheeting that are shatterproof which supposedly allows them to withstand severe weather, and keeps the greenhouse both warm in the winter and cool in the summer. The working temperature range is: -42°F to 248°F (-44°C to 120°C)

Stay-tuned! I will attempt to attach this to the structure and report when I’m successful!

Notes

9/2025 – Added a snap-on door stop made with a 3D printer to prevent the doors from swinging too hard inward. Easy to drill and permanently attach to PVC pipe if desired. Throughout the growing season, had plants inside then enclosure that were able to be pollinated no problem. Doors made it easy to access plants. Ended up moving the corn plants inside after squirrel robbery. The enclosure was a tad too short for the corn, so tassels extended out, but successfully thwarted squirrels that tried hard to get into the corn (they obliterated the corn tassels trying to pull the entire plant out). Success!! Just bought the polycarbonate panels for a new attempt at creating a cold frame for the winter. Still have yet to attach actual door latches and am still using a ball

Ball Bungee Cord is easy to use
Door stop that just snaps onto the PVC. Can be permanently fastened. This is not at the moment

August 2024 – It’s been almost a month since test phase started, and squirrels have left it completely alone. No evidence of rotting, so good airflow, pollinators busily doing their thing, vines climbing the cloth like a trellis… altogether very happy with its function. Even the bungee cords perform well and are easy to remove. Still have not secured hinges or installed latches… and I’m not sure I want to. It would make for a refined product, but the bungee cords work well.

August 2025 – Squirrels robbed me of corn, so moved the pot into the enclosure. SUCCESS!!! First true test against the rodents. They desperately wanted the corn, but could not get in. They even tried to pull the corn up through the top by yanking on the tassels. All that did was rip the tassels off the plant. They never got inside! Yay!! It WORKS!!!

If I were to do it again, I would do several things:

  • Buy hardware cloth that’s wide enough to not need so much overlap. Like, one that can span from one side, to the back, and to the other side. The top can be separate.
  • If using the galvanized steel wire method of attachment, then buy a Wire Twister Tool for Drill. Not only would that save tons of time, but physical fatigue
  • Measure the placement of the hinges before snapping them on
  • Paint it green or brown. White is so stark in the garden! Or if you have expendable income, then buy Formufit’s colored PVC
  • Figure out a different way to attach the hardware cloth (Ideas are all expensive yet removeable: 2in Rubber Cable Clamps, 2 in Binder Rings, 6in Steel Wire Twist Barrel Keychains, etc.)

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DIY: Bed Canopy Frame with PVC

written 6/17/24, updated 7/28/24

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Overview

What

Making a DIY canopy frame over a bed with PVC

Why

Cooling. To trap A/C from floor register underneath a canopy during summer. Room is top floor of a 3-story townhouse. Can be useful for trapping heat in the winter, too.

Time and Effort

1 person project, 2 would be helpful

Time: 1 hour

Effort: Easy

Materials and Cost

4ft 1″ PVC Pipe (your choice of PVC size and height)

PVC Fittings (depends on how many connections you want)

Canopy Material

Fabric Fasteners (ties/clips/hooks/attachments)

Temporary Securements (optional, but recommended)

$93.99 (20 piece)

$24.86 (14 total)

$39.99

$14.99 (25/pack)

$15.98 (Qty: 4)

Other Supplies: Ratcheting PVC Cutter ($14), Driver, Drill Bits

Total Cost: $189.81

PVC Fittings

For this 6′ x 4′ x 6′ canopy, I bought 4′ long PVC at 1″ width (you can choose other sizes and lengths) and used the ratcheting PVC cutter to cut the pieces to 2′ to create 6′ lengths. T

Fittings needed for the 1″ PVC

FORMUFIT, a company that specializes in furniture-grade PVC sells all of these plus more options in many colors. 100% USA made. I bought everything but the 3-way elbows at a local big box store in the PVC aisle because FORMUFIT’s products come in packs of 10.

  • 3-Way Elbow (4 qty)
  • 90-Degree Elbow (4 qty)
  • External Coupling (4 qty)
  • Standard Tee (4 qty)

Optional Footers

I didn’t do this, opting for crossbars favoring stability, but using a Reducer Coupling can work as pipe feet

Schematics

Here’s a hand-drawn diagram showing dimensions. This is 6′ x 4′ x 6′ (L x W x H) or 72″ x 48″ x 72″.

For reference:

Bed Size (USA)Dimensions (L x W)
Twin75 in x 38 in (6¼ ft x 3⅙ ft)
Twin XL80 in x 38 in (6⅔ ft x 3⅙ ft)
Full75 in x 54 in (6¼ ft x 4½ ft)
Queen80 in x 60 in (6⅔ ft x 5 ft)
King80 in x 76 in (6⅔ ft x 6⅓ ft)
California King84 in x 72 in (7 ft x 6 ft)

Why 4′ width when a twin bed is only 3⅙’ wide?

In this instance it’s to try and capture the cool air blowing from the floor duct register, under the overhanging side

Cutting the PVC

There are many options! And they mostly depend on what’s available in your house, how much you want to spend, how much time you mind spending, what mess you want to make/clean up, and future usefulness of any newly bought tools (or will it just sit in a box somewhere for the rest of your life). Options include anything that cuts from manual saws to powered saws to dedicated PVC cutters.

Method 1

My first go-to was the Cordless Multi-tool I’d bought but had yet to use.

Clamped and elevated
Cutting!
Whoops. Cut line and drawn line are not matching!
Messy and very rough edges

VERDICT: It will CUT. But it will also make a mess, create rough edges, time consuming, and requires clamps, and it took me a while to figure out if there’s a best blade to use for PVC.

Method 2

I decided to buy a Ratcheting PVC Cutter for $14

Measuring!
Line ‘er up!
Watch the ratcheting mechanism work
Super smooth edge and NO mess!

VERDICT: It will KEAL and lacerate the PVC. This method is superior. No setting up, no mess at all, smooth edges, and super-fast. No power source

Assembly

Well. There’s not much to say here. You push the pipes into the fittings and form them into whatever shape you want. The hardest part is holding them in place while you fit more. This is why a 2nd person could be useful. I did it by myself.

Fastening

Now, this is optional, especially if your structure will be a temporary one. Before putting them together, I mulled over this a lot. If the shape you formed is solid, you likely don’t need to secure the parts as they’re pretty tight just dry-fitted. However, you have the option of creating permanent or secure-yet-temporary bonds.

Permanent

Many choices out there, but THIS is your traditional plumbing primer and cement. Simply follow the directions and prime then cement.

Make sure to use in a well-ventilated area and beware the purple staining of objects and flesh

Secure-Yet-Removable

There are different methods of doing this: You can use a screw, you can use wood dowels, I read something about using rubber hosing, heck you can use tape if you want to. I tested out a method that’s similar to the others, just a little fancier.

I opted to try Quick Release Pins. They’re a bit pricey for a project like this that would need many to fully secure, and it was difficult to find a size that would not be too long. In the end I only installed the 2 that I bought.

You also need a drill, drill bit, a stool, and a vacuum because it will make a mess.

Seems to fit!
Chose the drill bit
Drilling and making a mess
Hole through and through (drilled from both sides)
Inserting!
Aaaand it doesn’t actually fit through it.

While the first pin could not fully engage the hole (perhaps I drilled it at an angle instead of straight through), the second one did. Advice: err on the larger side when choosing a drill bit. I had to use the bit to ream out the opening from many angles just to get the pin to fit

Success!

The pin secures the pipe to the fitting, ensuring that it will not come apart. The only flaw in this is that if you use many fittings, that’s a lot of securements! I chose the top corners of the frame as it would prevent the ends from bowing out if the canopy material ended up being too heavy for the frame.

Canopy

This part, I’m still not super happy about. It was hard to find any canopy curtain/top/fabric at all, let alone one that appealed to me. Aside from sewing one myself from a chosen, ideal fabric (which I may end up doing in the future), I ended up choosing a canvas tarp. My original idea was to use an old fitted sheet. I didn’t consider how slippery the PVC is and after about 15 minutes of wrangling, I gave up. Plus, how would I secure the fitted sheet? The canvas tarp was not only as thick as I wanted it to be, but it came in a white color. If I want to trap cool air, I don’t want it to absorb heat as a darker color.

Assembly

8′ x 10′ seems large, doesn’t it? It kind of is… I thought that having the extra length would make it easier to drape and less likely to slip off. Also, that way, I can let the sides down as I please. Later, I thought about spiders making webs in the folds…

Then a new problem arose:

THE CORNERS

What to do? How to fasten? To this day, I don’t really know the best option apart from cutting it and sewing it together (which would bring me back to square one with the canopy). I just kind of did something.

Does it Work?

After all of that, does the canopy work? Does it trap cool air? I have to be honest, I’m not fully sure! I think there is an improvement, yes, but it’s still not an end-all solution. On the very hot days, I was hot and stuffy and found it hard to sleep. Lowering the sides did make a difference, and I also ended up buying an Airtight Ripstop Nylon Fabric thinking that perhaps the tarp, which was made to be breathable, was TOO breathable.

HOWEVER. I do have a FLIR camera, so here are two interesting FLIR images (note: these images were taken before the addition of the airtight fabric on top):

A/C register behind the bed in the image (where the blue is)
A/C register to the RIGHT of the image

Blue is cool and yellow is hot. The A/C register is on the right side of the rightmost image. There IS a coolness to the canopy compared to the area outside of the canopy. So, yes, in a word, yes, I think it does work.

VERDICT: Yes. It does trap cool air and maintains cooler temperatures than the surrounding air. Having a fan to further direct the air coming from the register might make it more effective at cooling.

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