DIY: PVC and Hardware Cloth Garden Plant Enclosure + Winter Cover

written 8/5/2024, updated 9/6/2025

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Overview

What

Temporary/disassembly-possible enclosure for patio and deck plants using PVC pipe and hardware cloth, featuring doors

Why

Thieving squirrels, birds, and deer yet still allowing pollinators, air, sun, and rain through

Time and Effort

Time: Several hours to 1 day (maybe more)

Difficulty: Moderate (depends on your equipment and material situation)

This is what started it all. My beautiful cantaloupe brazenly stolen and eaten right in front of my eyes by a crafty yet cute squirrel

Materials and Cost

All materials bought from Amazon and Home Depot

Material

1″ 4ft PVC Pipe

1″ 6ft PVC Pipe

16-gauge 2′ x 50′ Hardware Cloth Roll

200′ 16-gauge Galvanized Steel Wire

1″ PVC Hinges

1″ 90 Degree Elbow Fitting

1″ 3-Way Fitting

1″ Tee Fitting

Cabinet Hardware Pulls

Quantity

12 pipes

5 pipes

31ft

0.5 Roll

4 Hinges

8 Fittings

8 Fittings

2 Fittings

2 Pulls

TOTAL

Use Price

$80.40

$43.99

$24.80

$3.97

$36.68

$11.84

$26.00

$3.94

$4.38

$236.00

Owned Supplies:

Needle Nose Pliers

Linesman’s Pliers

Diagonal Cutting Pliers

Ratcheting PVC Cutter

Sharpie

Measuring Tape

Digital Calipers

Rubber Mallet

Bits/Driver

Screw Gauge

Planning and Schematics

Note: Drawings not to scale

Dimensions (L x W x H)

Outer Dimensions: 45″ x 22″ x 53″

Door Dimensions: 20.5″ x 49″

Fitting Dimensions

3-Way (Formufit brand – 8 qty)

1¼ ” + 1⅜” = 2⅝” length

1.25in + 1.375in = 2.625in

90 Degree (Charlotte Pipe brand – 8 qty)

1½” + 1⅛” = 2⅝”

1.5in + 1.125in = 2.625in

Tee (Charlotte Pipe brand – 2 qty)

⅞” + 1⅜” + ⅞” = 3⅛”

0.875in + 1.375in + 0.875in = 3.125in

Pipe Lengths

Remember that the ends of the pipes will fit into the fittings. All measurements are approximate. Actual item dimensions may vary

Outer Frame

42″ pipe (4 qty) – Length

19″ pipe (4 qty) – Width

50″ pipe (5 qty) – Height

Doors

17.5″pipe (4 qty) – Width

46.5″ pipe (4 qty) – Height

Overall Weight

1 in, 4 ft PVC pipe = 1.4lbs

Overall Weight of Enclosure: ~37lbs

Author’s Note

From start to finish, conception to assembly, this took a total of 3 days of time. Not counting waiting for parts, choosing parts, etc. The idea started way back in 2022 when I was having issues with squirrels stealing my tomatoes. I dreamed up and drew up plans, even going as far as to buying much of the materials to do it (originally out of wood and composite wood). However, the squirrels quit stealing my stuff until this year when my vegetables and fruit disappeared one by one. The final straw was the baby cantaloupe! WARTIME. Since it would be placed on the deck instead of the ground like the original plans intended, I needed a less weighty option and therefore chose PVC pipe. Armed with the original plans, I altered them. You can plan all you’d like, but doing is completely different! So started the 3 day-total-time journey (really, it took about a week waiting for all the pieces). Many, many calculations, miscalculations, frustrations, and even blood shedding later, I’ve – at this writing – mostly completed the project. Just a few minor tweaks and a test run before finalizing the hardware.

Overarching Question: Does it actually work???

As of August 2025: YES, IT WORKS successfully against thieving squirrels! They tried, hard with no success! (see Notes section for more)

Process

Gathering Supplies and Equipment

Needed: Handles, PVC pipe, Ratcheting pipe cutter, PVC fittings, hinges

Calculating, Measuring, Cutting, Assembling the Frame

Easily the most time-consuming part. Using the specialized PVC cutter and also a digital caliper saved a lot of time. Just setting up the frame is easy. The hard part is fitting the doors properly without creating too much of a gap (trying to prevent critter entry after all) around the door and frame while remembering that the fittings add more length to each side (calculations are done for you already in the schematics above). On top of that, there’s the consideration of hardware cloth size to make as the hardware cloth is best wrapping around the pipe. If this was wood, it would be easier to just create a removable frame around the outside of the cloth. Lots of re-measuring and re-cutting until I got it right (or close enough).

Use a rubber mallet to make sure the pieces are snug in the fittings

Hinges and Handles

This was more complicated than it needed to be. Hardware included with the (unthreaded) cheapo Handles are just too short to span the 1 in width of the PVC pipe. Without buying more or having to run out to a store, I delved into my giant box of random screws. Thankfully, I managed to find 4 that were both long enough and the right size (screw and thread gauges are useful). The Hinges snapped easily onto the PVC and mostly stay in place. And no wonder they stay in, because it gouges the plastic like no other if you remove and slide them around, so make sure you’ve measured where you want them first.

WARNING: Fasten any hinges before fastening handles so that the handles are oriented properly, or at least mark locations well. Because I waited a year, my handles are now in a wonky orientation

May 2025 – Hinge Permanence

Finally decided to screw in the hinges. I was way too lazy to take the entire cabinet apart for the winter, but it ended up enduring the winter just fine

Used an 11/64″ bit, lined up the hinges on the pipe, and went for it. Ended up using random screws that I happened to have, so they’re all mismatched and ended up rusting over the summer

Attaching the Hardware Cloth

This is 16-gauge hardware cloth which is hard to find in stores (at least where I am). It’s big enough to allow pollinators, water, and air into the enclosure, but small enough to thwart rodent and avian robbers. This was the limiting factor for size of the enclosure as the cloth I used was only 2ft wide (they sell them larger). And no, chicken wire is not recommended. Not only are the holes too large, but the wire is weak. Also, to note, because this enclosure sits on the deck, there is no need for bottom coverage. If I were to use the wooden schematics made to sit on the ground, then it would be fully enclosed by wood, or extra cloth would need to be sunk into the ground (1-2 ft deep) to deter diggers.

The exceedingly time-consuming and physically painful part of this was the issue of how to attach hardware cloth to PVC. Without spending a fortune, I decided on a roll of general-purpose galvanized steel wire and some pliers. However, given how long it took to secure everything (5 hours! In the baking sun and even through a short downpour), I’ve been thinking of a better attachment method (See NOTES section)

Twisty-ties from lettuce are nice and long
Navigating corners
Cut to bend
Overlapping pieces
Temporary twisty ties to hold two vertical pieces of hardware cloth together
Bending these under
3rd layer of overlap (top, back, and side)
Twisting the Galvanized Steel Wire with Pliers

After much trial and error, I found that this was the fastest way (at least by hand) to tie off the 16-gauge steel wire (perhaps I should have used something smaller)

Cut
Thread and orient
Grab with lineman’s pliers
Twist
Keep twisting (be careful, though, twisting in the same spot too fast and hard will snap it)
Tight

Fun fact: If you feel the metal after twisting, it’ll feel really hot

Grab some needle nose pliers and bend it away from poking people
Safer!

Keep Going Until Completion

What’s annoying is that tying off the hardware cloth with wire will cause random pockets where it bows out. Just keep on until everything is secure. Be aware that the ends of the hardware cloth and the steel wire are very sharp!

While the camera didn’t focus on it, cut out pieces to make room for the handles
Trimming excess of doors
Trimming ends to prevent scratching of feet or deck
Where doors meet. While doesn’t look ideal, it works because touching wire acts like a latch to hold them together
Hinges can still be manipulated since they’re not yet screwed in
Note the spacing between the hinge hardware. You can open or close the space just by twisting the hinge (hence why it hasn’t been secured until the end)

Complete!

Mostly. No locking hardware yet. Coming back to this 2 years after the fact, I’m still holding strong with just a ball bungee through the 2 handles.

Welcome home, cantaloupe plant!
3 total bungee cords to hold in place while in testing phase. Works really well
Given the space at the bottom where something can push its way in, all I did was place a spare paver brick and voila!

Winter Cover

The aim was to have it deconstructable, but I was too lazy, so I decided to use it as sort of a winterized greenhouseish thing. My region is Zone 7B USDA hardiness. Two options (so far) for winterization.

Plastic Sheeting

Suitable for mild winters with low duration freezing periods, about 20-40F.

Material

6 mil Greenhouse Plastic Sheeting 12′ x 25′ (much too large)

Zip Ties

Packing Tape (for corners)

Pictures!

Plastic Sheeting. I bought entirely too much. Probably needed half of that.
6 mil thickness
Zip tie securing and tape for the corners
Cut it off for neat appearance
Left openings around seams for ventilation and access
Poked a few drainage/vent holes in the top with a screwdriver

Plastic Sheeting Winterizing Results

2 months: hard freeze early December for 1-2 weeks, and it’s dipped as low as the teens. So far so good. The plants seem to be doing just fine in there. I have hard neck garlic, strawberry, my blueberry plant, and onions.

Post-Winter: For about 5ish years, the winter had been pretty mild. 2024-2025 winter was normal for this area which translates to periods of very cold and snow. Unfortunately, that meant that my plastic layers did NOT work well enough. If temperatures stay around 20-40F, then the plastic is fine. If there are hard freezes for extended periods of time, this is not good enough. All of my plants died except the strawberry which didn’t mind at all and looks amazing (in a 10-gallon fabric pot). The blueberry mostly died but finally started sprouting new shoots from the root late June 2025. I was disappointed and will update again this fall when I set up the new version of this using hard plastic walls instead of the sheeting. Stay tuned!

Twin-Wall Polycarbonate Sheet

4′ x 2′ x 0.24” Polycarbonate Green House Panels. They’re a rigid plastic sheeting that are shatterproof which supposedly allows them to withstand severe weather, and keeps the greenhouse both warm in the winter and cool in the summer. The working temperature range is: -42°F to 248°F (-44°C to 120°C)

Stay-tuned! I will attempt to attach this to the structure and report when I’m successful!

Notes

9/2025 – Added a snap-on door stop made with a 3D printer to prevent the doors from swinging too hard inward. Easy to drill and permanently attach to PVC pipe if desired. Throughout the growing season, had plants inside then enclosure that were able to be pollinated no problem. Doors made it easy to access plants. Ended up moving the corn plants inside after squirrel robbery. The enclosure was a tad too short for the corn, so tassels extended out, but successfully thwarted squirrels that tried hard to get into the corn (they obliterated the corn tassels trying to pull the entire plant out). Success!! Just bought the polycarbonate panels for a new attempt at creating a cold frame for the winter. Still have yet to attach actual door latches and am still using a ball

Ball Bungee Cord is easy to use
Door stop that just snaps onto the PVC. Can be permanently fastened. This is not at the moment

August 2024 – It’s been almost a month since test phase started, and squirrels have left it completely alone. No evidence of rotting, so good airflow, pollinators busily doing their thing, vines climbing the cloth like a trellis… altogether very happy with its function. Even the bungee cords perform well and are easy to remove. Still have not secured hinges or installed latches… and I’m not sure I want to. It would make for a refined product, but the bungee cords work well.

August 2025 – Squirrels robbed me of corn, so moved the pot into the enclosure. SUCCESS!!! First true test against the rodents. They desperately wanted the corn, but could not get in. They even tried to pull the corn up through the top by yanking on the tassels. All that did was rip the tassels off the plant. They never got inside! Yay!! It WORKS!!!

If I were to do it again, I would do several things:

  • Buy hardware cloth that’s wide enough to not need so much overlap. Like, one that can span from one side, to the back, and to the other side. The top can be separate.
  • If using the galvanized steel wire method of attachment, then buy a Wire Twister Tool for Drill. Not only would that save tons of time, but physical fatigue
  • Measure the placement of the hinges before snapping them on
  • Paint it green or brown. White is so stark in the garden! Or if you have expendable income, then buy Formufit’s colored PVC
  • Figure out a different way to attach the hardware cloth (Ideas are all expensive yet removeable: 2in Rubber Cable Clamps, 2 in Binder Rings, 6in Steel Wire Twist Barrel Keychains, etc.)

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DIY: Frame it All System Raised Bed Install Replacement

written 4/13/2024, updated 4/13/2024

Overview

What

Replacing an old, rotted, worn wood raised bed border with a food-safe composite board made from “38% HDPE plastic and 62% certified sustainably sourced wood fibers” which is equivalent to 97 single-use plastic bottles. Bug resistant, no rot.

Time and Effort

Dependent on condition of yard and slope

Time: 4 hours

Effort: Easy – Moderate

Materials and Cost

Garden Tools, Soil, Rock, Rubber Mallet, Gloves, Elbow Grease

Product: 4′ x 12′ Raised Garden Bed

Options: 2″ thickness, 11″ height, Weathered Wood color

Price: $429.99 – $64.49 (coupon) + free shipping = $365.50 (no tax)

  • In comparison, Paver wall retaining blocks like, Mini Beltis 3 in. H x 8 in. W x 4 in. D Ashland Concrete Retaining Wall Block, need 96 total blocks to get 2 courses, but only sits 6in high. Would need 4 courses of pavers to reach a similar 12″ height (compared to the 11″ of the Frame it All system).
  • Cost: 96 blocks x $1.38 = $132.48 (6″ height)
  • Cost: 192 blocks x $1.38 = $264.96 (12″ height)
  • Cheaper until you remember you need paver base, leveling sand, and to get almost 200 retaining blocks to your house. Then to heft them to the garden
  • Pros of paver wall blocks: Won’t break if hitting with lawn mowing equipment or other rocks, bug and animal proof, easier to work with uneven terrain, can be replaced easily or moved/changed or expanded

Installation

HERE is a link to the product page that includes the video walkthrough of installation

HERE is their official YouTube channel

Before and After

Preparation

Removing Rebar: the original, rotten wood was held in with at least 15 pieces of rebar of varying lengths. How do you remove rebar stuck in the ground? Turns out it’s really easy: Vise Grip Pliers.

Lock it on, give it several spins, then spin while pulling upwards. It really is as simple as that. Some pieces can be still stubborn, but just give it a few more spins, some back and forth, and nice steady pressure upwards.

Old pieces of wood and rebar removed, as well as some wayward patio pavers. Then laying out the composite boards, and the bulk of the entire job: leveling, fixing the bed plot, removing weeds and rocks, relocating any existing plants. Muscle and elbow grease, FTW

Assembling

Yay! Finally assembling the frame system, but don’t be fooled into ease! Now for the technical part.

There is one Stacking Bracket kit for every 2 boards. Making sure to alternate the up and down orientation of the brackets on either end, secure them to the boards using the little plug. Frame-it-All recommends either using your palms or a mallet to push it in, but you’re guaranteed to want to use a mallet unless your hands are made of something harder than mine (kept getting my palm flesh stuck between the plug and the bracket…) especially the more boards you’ll be securing.

I’d recommend attaching brackets to just enough boards for the bottom layer for now because installing the crossbars will mess things up if you try to do them all at once.

Following Frame-It-All’s instructions, it’s time to dry fit the lowest level together by placing the stakes in upside down. This is a super important step that you do not want to skip because it allows you level the pieces and see how it all lines up.

Similarly, it’s extremely important to dry fit the crossbeam stabilizing boards… I wish I’d paid more attention to this part because my pieces ended up juuuust a little too far in the final install and it was a pain to try and fix at the end (when you’re tired! Or at least I was with all of the leveling I had to do of the bed plot).

When you’re ready, it’s hammer time!

Even with it all hammered into the ground, this is the best time to double check your evenness and leveling. You can still lift the stakes and fix things. I had a lot of work to do in that department

And now on to the tricky part. It’s time to assemble the rest of the boards and brackets, but first, you have to understand the bracket orientation of the crossbars using the 4-Way Bracing Brackets before assembling the rest of the brackets to the boards

Dry fit all the boards again, and using the 4-Way Bracing Bracket kits, figure out the stabilizing crossbeam 3-way orientation. Attach the rest of the brackets to the boards after figuring it out. If you mess up, it’s not a big deal. Just use a flat-head screwdriver in the little notch and twist out the plugs

Now to set up the 3-way bracing brackets for the crossbar. You need 1 Regular Stacking Bracket, 1 Mid 4-Way Bracing Bracket, and 1 Top 4-Way Bracing Bracket.

Referencing the image above and ignoring the bottom level, the leftmost board has a Regular Stacking Bracket (bottom of stack), the crossbeam has a Mid 4-Way Bracing Bracket, and the rightmost board has the Top 4-Way Bracing Bracket (top of stack).

**However you end up orienting them, make sure the top of the cross-board is flush with the rest of the boards**

When you’re ready, hammer them all in! Keep in mind that hammering in the top might cause the bottom layer to sink into the ground a bit if you didn’t use any paver/rock base. You can just lift up from the bottom and fix it.

Yay!

Fix anything you need to, and then cover up the holes with the Finishing Caps!

Now, for some soil. I decided to add some rock underneath since the ground is basically all clay

ALL DONE. Sort of. I need some more soil.

Soil Quantity

In these images used 1.5cu. ft Garden Soil (Qty: 4) + 1 cu. ft Garden Soil (Qty: 4) + 0.5 cu. ft River Pebbles (Qty: 2) = 11cu. ft total

I think I still need another 8 bags of the 1.5 cu. ft Garden Soil before I’m satisfied, taking into account settling from rain and weather. Mulch will go on top

Total Volume: 12′ x 4′ x 0.92 ‘ = 44.16 cu ft

My ideal total garden soil volume: 22 cu. ft (remember the bed already had existing soil, plus rocks, and mulch will top it)

Instruction Manual

NOTE: Step 4 is only for 3 and 4 tier layouts